PLANNING FOR HOLIDAY MEALS

 

Roast chicken with fruit stuffing, a festive dish for a holiday meal.

Rosh Hashana, the Jewish New Year, begins at sundown on Monday, September 22—coincidentally the first day of autumn. Those of you who observe the holiday have probably long since planned a special menu and, likely, have even begun the cooking. This is the first of fall/winter holidays, from Rosh Hashana to All Saints/All Souls (Halloween), Thanksgiving to Christmas, Hanukkah to New Year’s, with many occasions to gather friends and family for festive dining.

To help you plan holiday meals, have a look at my new cookbook, Flavors of al-Andalus, The Culinary Legacy of Spain. A section of Menu Suggestions at the back of the book shows you how to use the recipes in your life. 

Here are the menu ideas for an Autumn/Winter Holiday Meal--appetizers, starters, mains, desserts, cookies, and confections. Recipes for all of the dishes listed can be found in Flavors of al-Andalus. (The recipe for Roast Chicken with Fruit Stuffing follows.)

Chicken and Liver Pâté (Morteruelo) accompanied with toasts

Winter Gazpacho with Oranges (Gazpacho de Invierno)

Savory Almond Soup (Sopa de Almendras)

Hake in Saffron Sauce (Merluza al Azafrán)

Roast Chicken with Fruit Stuffing (Pollo Relleno con Frutas) 

Cauliflower (or cardoons) in Almond Sauce (Coliflor en Salsa de Almendras)

Pumpkin Pudding (Arnadí)

Crumbly Olive Oil Cookies (Mantecados de Aceite)

Fig Pâté (Pan de Higos)

Honey-Almond Logs (Alfajores)

The roast chicken is a gorgeous dish for any holiday, but it is especially appropriate for Rosh Hashana because its roots are in Spain’s Sephardic Jewish cooking.

Quite a few of the recipes in Flavors of al-Andalus have come down to us from the community of Sephardic Jews. Sepharad was the name that the Jews gave to the Iberian peninsula, where, for more than 13 centuries, Jews lived alongside Romans, Visigoths, Muslims and Christians in communities throughout the country. The Jews were expelled from Spain in 1492 by the same Catholic monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella, who, having defeated the last of the Moors in the kingdom of Granada, funded Columbus’s scheme to sail west to look for the Spice Islands.

(Note: The recipes in Flavors of al-Andalus with their roots in Islamic Spain are not kosher nor halal. However, they are easily adapted to respect those dietary laws. For instance, Jews can substitute chicken in recipes for rabbit; Muslims can substitute fruit juice for wine. None of the recipes calls for pork, ham or chorizo.)

Roast Chicken with Fruit Stuffing

Pollo Relleno con Frutas

Chicken stuffing is a mixture of dried fruits, apples, and breadcrumbs with Sherry.

(Excerpted from Flavors of al-Andalus, The Culinary Legacy of Spain)

A recipe for “a Jewish dish of chicken with stuffing” appears in an anonymous Arabic manuscript from the 13th century. It calls for the chicken liver and gizzard to be ground up with almonds, pine nuts, fennel, cilantro, spices and beaten eggs. Once the chicken is done and the stuffing set, the recipe instructs the cook to “ladle it out and put the stuffing around it, garnish with cut rue and fennel, eyes of mint, and toasted almonds, and present it, God willing.”

Fast-forward to the 21st century, and we find a recipe from Catalonia (the eastern Mediterranean region where Barcelona is located) for roast, stuffed chicken or turkey that is prepared for the Christmas feast. It is stuffed with pork sausage meat, nuts and dried fruits. The origin of the recipe may well be medieval Jewish, when it would have been made with a forcemeat of minced chicken or veal instead of pork. It is a very festive dish.

A medium-dry Sherry such as amontillado or oloroso seco flavors the stuffing and the pan juices. If not available, use any white wine. Use any combination of dried fruits. Truffles are an optional, luxurious, addition to the stuffing mixture. Small onions, carrots, and turnips can be added to the roasting pan, if desired.

The stuffing can also be used for small birds such as squab, Cornish game hens or for turkey (although turkey is not included in recipes in Flavors of al-Andalus because it is a fowl from the New World, unknown in Moorish Spain).

Serves 8.

1 roasting chicken or capon (5 to 6 pounds)

1 teaspoon salt + more for sprinkling

Freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon + ½ cup medium-dry Sherry

1 cup chopped dried fruits (raisins, apricots, prunes, figs)

¼ cup hot water

8 ounces ground chicken or veal

3 tablespoons olive oil

¼ cup pine nuts

½ cup chopped onions

1 cup fresh breadcrumbs

1 cup diced apple

¼ teaspoon cinnamon

Pinch of cloves

Pinch freshly grated nutmeg

3 tablespoons chopped parsley

Pinch dried thyme

Truffles, diced (optional)

1 tablespoon capers 

Small onions, carrots, turnips (optional)

½ to 1 cup chicken stock

Sprinkle the chicken inside and out with salt and pepper. Rub the cavity with 1 tablespoon of the Sherry. Allow the chicken to come to room temperature.

Preheat the oven to 450ºF.

Soak the dried fruits in hot water for 10 minutes to soften them. 

Combine the ground chicken in a large bowl with the dried fruits and their soaking water. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a small skillet and toast the pine nuts until golden. Skim them out and add to the bowl with the ground chicken. Add the onion to the skillet and sauté until softened, 3 minutes. Add the onion to the bowl along with the breadcrumbs, apple, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, parsley, thyme, truffles if using, capers, 1 teaspoon salt, and pepper. Combine well.

Stuff the chicken with the mixture. Skewer the neck and body openings closed and truss the chicken with kitchen twine. Place in a heavy roasting pan or in a large ovenproof skillet. Drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. (Add vegetables to the roasting pan, if desired.)

Place the pan in the oven and turn the oven temperature down to 350ºF. Roast the chicken for 30 minutes. Add the remaining ½ cup Sherry and ½ cup stock to the pan. Spoon some of the juices over the chicken. Roast for 30 minutes more, basting occasionally. Add up to ½ cup additional stock if the pan looks dry. Roast 1 hour more or until internal temperature of the stuffing reaches 160ºF when tested with an instant-read thermometer.

Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and allow to rest 20 minutes. Carve the chicken and scoop the stuffing into a serving bowl. Skim the fat from the remaining pan juices. Spoon some of the juices over the chicken and serve the rest in a bowl.

***   ***   ***

More recipes for Rosh Hashana:

Stuffed Chickens Roasted in a Clay Pot (from Sabores de Sefarad by Javier Zafra).

Chicken Braised in Spiced Grape Juice

Chicken Marbella (my version)

Black-Eyed Peas for the New Year

Apple Cake with Honey-Wine Syrup

***   ***   ***

***Anyada buena, dulce i alegre.*** Feliz año nuevo.***Happy New Year.***

***   ***   ***

FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS 

The Culinary Legacy of Spain

has menus and recipes for Tapas Party, Brunch, Summer Barbecue, Family Dinners (one vegetarian), Sunday Lunch, Dinner Party, Spring Holiday Meal, and Autumn/Winter Holiday Meal. From your favorite bookseller or click below to order. 

This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times. Dishes from this era include exotic spices such as saffron, the use of fruits and almonds with savory dishes, and honeyed sweets and pastries. The flavors of al-Andalus live on in modern Spanish cooking and are what makes Spain’s cuisine distinctive from the rest of Europe. (Hippocrene Books)    

 Order on IndiePubs

Use PROMO CODE HIPPOCRENE40 for 40% off on all Hippocrene titles at IndiePubs online bookstore.

***

Order on amazon

FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS by Janet Mendel is the #1 New Release in Spanish Cooking on Amazon!

Order on amazon.es

***   ***   ***

THE HOLIDAY TABLE—ON THE SIDE

 

Salmon fillet in the center of the plate, on the side are broccoli with alioli gratin and double-mashed potatoes with pimentón. (Recipe for the double-mashed potatoes is below.)

Are you planning holiday menus? Here are some ideas—with Spanish flavors—for side dishes to accompany the suckling pig or baby lamb, roast duck or haunch of ham, standing rib or side of salmon, brace of partridge or lobster amoricaine. If it’s to be a vegetarian feast, serve a collection of sides as the main attraction. 

Beans

Green Bean and Ham Sauté 

Habichuelas Salteadas con Jamón

Chopped serrano ham adds a flavor punch to green beans. Use smoked cooked ham, instead, or omit for a vegetarian dish. The beans can be par-boiled in advance, then quickly sautéed right before serving. Beans go great with roast turkey.  Recipe link: Hasta la Vista, Beans.

Broccoli

Broccoli with Alioli Gratin

Broccoli Gratinado con Alioli

This broccoli dish would go nicely next to grilled steak, pork chops or salmon fillet. Cook the broccoli crisp-tender, spread it with alioli (garlic mayonnaise) and pop it under the broiler to brown. (I topped the salmon fillet with alioli too for a gratin finish under the broiler.) Recipe link: Broccoli Is Trending. 

Red Cabbage 

Red Cabbage, Castillian Style

Lombarda a la Castellana

Red cabbage is a very traditional vegetable for Spanish Christmas feasts. Its vibrant color adds to a festive table.  This easy to prepare version is cooked in white wine with prunes. Red cabbage goes especially well with roast pork, venison or goose.  Recipe link: Christmas Dinner.

Carrots 

Sweet and Sour Carrots

Zanahorias con Miel y Vinagre

Based on an 18th Century recipe, these carrots are spiced with caraway and topped with pistachios. Honey and wine vinegar give a sweet and sour flavor. Serve the carrots with roast goose or pork.

Recipe link: 18th Century Recipes for Today.

Cardoons 

Cardoons in Almond Sauce

Cardos en Salsa de Almendras  

Cardoons is a vegetable that turns up at the festive Christmas Eve meal in Aragón, Navarra and La Rioja. The unwieldy stalks take some work to prepare, but they can be found precooked in jars in Spanish supermarkets. Cardoons taste a lot like artichokes, to which they are related, so use this recipe for frozen artichoke hearts as well. Cardoons would go nicely with a fish or chicken dish.  Recipe link: With a Side of Cardoons.

Cauliflower 

Cauliflower with Almond Sauce and Black Garlic

Coliflor con Salsa de Almendras y Ajo Negro

Truffled cauliflower? No, the cauliflower is studded with pieces of black garlic, a mild, slightly sweet condiment that makes this vegetable dish special. Sure, you could use truffles instead! Cauliflower with almond sauce is a very traditional side dish for the Christmas Eve meal. Serve it with turkey roulade, pork tenderloins or baby lamb.  Made with vegetable stock in place of chicken stock, the almond sauce makes a good vegan gravy.   Recipe link: El Toque Final.

Chard 

Rainbow Chard with Apricots and Pine Nuts

Acelga Roja con Orejones y Piñones

This recipe derives from a classic—espinacas con pasas y piñones, spinach (or chard leaves) with raisins and pine nuts. Using rainbow chard and beet greens turns it into a colorful side dish. This would be especially good with roast lamb, chicken or shrimp. For a vegetarian version, omit the bacon.  Recipe link: Seasonal Color.

Mushrooms

Pickled Mushrooms

Setas en Escabeche

These pickled mushrooms, prepared in advance, are ready to serve at the holiday table. With thyme, peppercorns and a bit of chile, they would add zest to any meal. Maybe with a thick grilled steak or poached turbot.   Recipe link: Relish the Season.

Onions

Scarlet-Pickled Onions

Cebolletas Escarlatas

Aren’t these pretty? Not red onions, but onions tinted scarlet with beet juice, a recipe from La Mancha, where it is served with partridge pâté. Serve the onions alongside any sort of pâté, on a cheese board, with salads or with burgers.  Recipe link: Relish the Season.

Potatoes

Double-Mashed Potatoes

Patatas Revolconas

This is a rustic dish from Extremadura that has become a popular tapa in Madrid tascas. It’s an incredibly versatile version of mashed potatoes that will go with almost any main. No gravy needed! The potatoes are flavored with smoked pimentón and kept moist with plenty of olive oil. Bacon is optional; the potatoes make a perfectly delicious vegetarian dish without it. They’re also good cooked and mashed with vegetables such as sweet potatoes, parsnips or cauliflower.  Recipe link: below.

Sweet Potatoes

Sweet Potatoes with Fennel and Clementines

Batatas con Hinojo y Clementinas

This side dish can be prepared in advance and served room temperature. Serve it as a starter or present it on a big platter for a buffet meal. The contrast of flavors and texture—sweet potatoes, crisp fennel and tangy citrus—make it a good side with baked ham or roast duck.  Recipe link: Seasonal Color on the Table.

Double-Mashed Potatoes

Patatas Revolconas 

Pimentón is the Spanish word for paprika. In this case it is Pimentón de la Vera, smoked pimentón from La Vera in Extremadura, both sweet and hot (picante). If hot pimentón is not available, use cayenne, to taste. 

Use more or less garlic, depending on what you plan to accompany the potatoes with. Chopped or sliced, the garlic is a noticeable presence. If preferred, crush it so it mixes with the oil and pimentón.

The potatoes can be cooked peeled or unpeeled. Drain the cooking water, saving about 1 cup of it to use in mashing the potatoes. If unpeeled, skin the potatoes once they are cool enough to handle. Use a fork or potato masher to crush the potatoes, leaving the potatoes somewhat lumpy. 

The potatoes can be served immediately after mixing them with the pimentón in the skillet. Or they can be prepared in advance. Cover the potatoes and refrigerate. Bring them to room temperature and spoon them into an oven dish. Drizzle with a little additional oil and reheat in a medium oven.

Serves 4.

1 ½ pounds mature potatoes

Salt

1 bay leaf

1 ounce diced bacon (optional)

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 ½ teaspoon smoked sweet pimentón

¼ teaspoon smoked hot pimentón

½ teaspoon cumin

Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water with the bay leaf until they are fork-tender, about 25 minutes. Drain them, saving 1 cup of the cooking water.

Peel the potatoes. Use a fork or potato masher to crush them, adding a little of the reserved cooking water as needed (about ¼ cup). Reserve the potatoes.

Heat the oil and bacon, if using, in a heavy skillet. When the bacon is browned, tip the skillet so the oil runs to one side and use a slotted spoon to lift out the bacon. Reserve it.

Add the garlic to the skillet and cook just until it begins to turn golden. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the two kinds of pimentón and the cumin. Begin adding the potatoes, mashing them into the oil and garlic. Once all the potatoes have been incorporated, add enough of the reserved cooking water to make the potatoes the desired consistency. Heat thoroughly.

Serve the potatoes hot, topped with the fried bacon, if desired. If serving at a later time, reheat the potatoes in a medium oven. 

More ideas for holiday menus:

The Christmas Menu.

Gastronome´s Advent Calendar.

The Final Touch.

A Perfect Holiday Wine. 

OLOROSO SHERRY—A PERFECT HOLIDAY WINE

 

Oloroso Sherry, perfect wine with holiday foods, from apéritif to soup, pâté to dessert.

I always have a bottle of dry fino Sherry or manzanilla on hand, both for sipping and for using in cooking. But, to celebrate World Sherry Week., I decided to expand my horizons a little and try something different. I chose a bottle of oloroso seco Sherry without knowing quite how best to enjoy it.

 

I turned to my friend, Shawn Hennessey, a Sherry educator, for some advice about what to pair with oloroso. Shawn gives Sherry tasting tours--with tapas, of course—in Sevilla where she lives. 

“Oloroso,” says Shawn, “is aged oxidatively, without the velo de flor [yeast covering], so, while still a dry wine, it maintains its original residual sugars and glycerine. This results in a fuller, rounder caramelly flavour that goes great with meat and game dishes.”

Shawn is sampling a different Sherry every day during Sherry week. Day 4 was her oloroso day. She posted on Instagram pictures of montadito de pringá, fatty meat and sausage piled on a bread roll, and rabo de toro, oxtail in a rich sauce that accompanied the oloroso.

I was reminded of the old adage about pairing Sherry with food. It says that “Si nada, fino o manzanilla; si vuela, amontillado; si corre, oloroso”. If it swims, choose fino or manzanilla; if it flies, amontillado; if it trots, oloroso. I can think of plenty of exceptions! Ibérico ham, for example, comes from a trotting animal, the ibérico pig, but it’s best with a fino Sherry, while smoked salmon, a swimmer, proves the rule and demands a good manzanilla. Toasted almonds, which neither swim, nor fly nor trot, are gorgeous with amontillado.

While mojama, salt-cured tuna—the “ham of the sea”—is best with manzanilla, a rich tuna takaki might very well pair nicely with robust oloroso. Oloroso pairs with foods that are salty, smoky, spicy, strong, fatty, robust or rich in collagen.

Topaz-amber-mahogany in color, oloroso is rounder, fuller and more structured than fino Sherry, akin to a medium-bodied red wine.  It is a fortified wine with an alcohol level of about 20º, which makes it different from most table wines.

After a week of tasting and cooking with oloroso, I can tell you, it’s the ideal holiday wine—it goes with all those special foods, from soup to nuts! Are you splurging on rich micuit de foie gras (duck liver)? Oloroso is your wine. Aged cheeses? Pair them with oloroso. Try this mellow wine in the consommé, in the mushroom stuffing for the Thanksgiving bird or the turkey gravy. Serve it with venison, duck or turkey. Hey, turkeys don’t really fly much, do they? Oloroso will complement a nut torte or chocolate-covered fig rabitos for dessert. Cocktails? Combine oloroso, fizzy water and a slice of orange. 

Serve oloroso with sausage and mature cheese. Pictured here, ibérico chorizo sausage,  glistening with fat and a little spicy, and aged sheep's milk cheese with considerable bite. 

To serve with apéritifs, an easy chicken liver pâté made with umami ibérico pork fat. 

Spiced with ginger, cumin and pimentón, this butternut squash soup needs an equally robust wine.

Here are two recipes suitable for a holiday meal, both with oloroso—an ibérico-inflected chicken liver pâté and a spicy pumpkin soup.

Ibérico Pâté of Chicken Livers

Pâté Ibérico de Higadillos de Pollo

Fat—butter, duck fat, pork fat, chicken fat—is what makes pâté rich, smooth and creamy. This version is made with rendered ibérico pork fat. 

Rendered ibérico pork fat.

You will need about 16 ounces of fresh ibérico tocino or panceta to make 1 cup of rendered fat. Cut it into small dice and cook in a heavy skillet on moderate heat until the fat is melted and the pieces just begin to brown. Remove from heat and very carefully pour the fat through a heat-proof sieve into a heat-proof bowl. Reserve the pieces of tocino or panceta for another use. 

If pork fat is not an option, use rendered duck, goose or chicken fat. 

To make a really smooth, velvety pâté, after grinding the livers in a food processor, force the paste through a fine sieve. This step is not essential, but it adds a luxurious touch. (However, I ate all the chewier paste left in the sieve!)

The pâtë keeps, refrigerated, up to a week. Or freeze it up to 3 months. Serve the pâté with crisp toasts, crackers or fresh bread. Oloroso Sherry is the perfect wine to pair with this pâté. 

Makes 1 ½ to 2 cups of pâté.

Fresh thyme leaves for pâté.

1 pound chicken livers

1 cup milk

1 cup (8 ounces) rendered ibérico fat, room temperature

1/3 cup finely chopped shallots

1 clove garlic, chopped

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons oloroso Sherry

¼ teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

Grating of nutmeg

Sprigs of thyme to garnish

Green peppercorns (optional)

Use kitchen scissors to remove any membrane or discoloration from the livers. Place them in a bowl and pour over the milk. Cover tightly and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 8 hours.

Drain the livers, discarding the milk, rinse them in cold water and pat them dry.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the fat in a heavy skillet. Add the shallots and garlic and sauté them gently until softened, 5 minutes, without letting them brown. 

Livers still pink inside.

Season the livers with ½ teaspoon of salt and pepper. Add 1 tablespoon more of fat to the skillet and add the livers. Sauté them on moderate heat, turning to brown them on all sides, about 5 minutes. Cut into one piece to test for doneness. Livers are done when they are still pink inside. Skim out smaller pieces first. 

When all the livers are done, remove them. Add the Sherry to the shallots remaining in the skillet. Cook off the alcohol, 30 seconds. Scrape the shallots and pan juices into a food processor bowl. Add the livers, thyme leaves and nutmeg. Process until finely chopped. Add half of the remaining pork fat and process again. Add remaining fat and process until the livers are completely smooth. Taste and add additional salt, a half-teaspoon at a time.

Sieving is optional.

Optional: For a very smooth pâtë, press the chicken liver paste through a sieve.

Pack the pâté into a 2-cup crock or bowl. Smooth the top. Place a sprig of thyme on top and, if desired, spread with green peppercorns. Cover the pâté tightly and refrigerate. Remove the pâté from the fridge 20 minutes before serving, so it softens slightly.

Serve the pâté with crackers or toast.

Spiced Pumpkin Soup

Crema de Calabaza 

With a swirl of yogurt or, vegan, without.

Roasting the pumpkin or squash makes it easier to peel and adds flavor. It doesn’t need to cook completely, only to get nice and toasted. This step can be done a day in advance. I used butternut squash, but any winter squash or pumpkin can be used.

Make this soup vegan, if you like, by using vegetable stock or even water. Garnish with cashew cream or toasted pumpkin seeds instead of the suggested Greek yogurt.

If you like, add another spoonful of Sherry to the soup before serving. Serve the soup with oloroso seco Sherry.

Serves 4.

Fennel seeds.

2 pounds pumpkin or squash

Olive oil

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 cup chopped leeks

2 cloves garlic, chopped

¼ cup peeled and chopped red bell pepper

Pinch of fennel seeds

1 teaspoon cumin

¼ teaspoon smoked pimentón picante (hot paprika)

½ teaspoon sweet pimentón (paprika)

3 tablespoons oloroso Sherry

6 cups chicken stock, vegetable stock or water

Strip of orange zest

Sherry vinegar, to taste

¼ cup Greek yogurt, to garnish

1 tablespoon orange juice

Chopped scallion greens, to garnish

Preheat broiler to 500ºF.

Toast squash under broiler.

Split the squash in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Slice it crosswise, skin and all. Place the slices on a baking sheet. Drizzle with oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place under the broiler 5 minutes. Turn the slices of squash and broil until tops are somewhat browned, 5 minutes more. Remove. When cool enough to handle, cut away the skins and discard them. 

Heat 4 tablespoons of oil in a soup pot. Sauté the leeks and garlic on medium heat until softened, 4 minutes. Don’t let them brown. Add the chopped pepper, fennel and cumin. Stir in the hot pimentón and sweet pimentón. Add the Sherry and cook off the alcohol, 30 seconds. Add the pieces of squash, the stock and the strip of zest. Add salt to taste. (If using stock, the soup may not need any salt; if using water, season with 1 teaspoon or more of salt.)

Cook the soup, uncovered, until the squash is very tender, 20 minutes. Fish out and discard the strip of zest. Cool the soup slightly. Use an immersion blender to puree the soup. Taste the soup and add a spoonful of vinegar to balance the sweetness of the squash. 

Reheat before serving the soup. Combine the yogurt, orange juice and ¼ teaspoon salt. Swirl the yogurt into the soup bowls. Garnish with scallions.

Serve Sherry in narrow-mouthed catavino glasses, as shown, or in white wine stemmed glasses. 

Shawn Hennessey, pictured here with a copita of fino Sherry, is a certified Sherry educator. See more about her Sherry and tapas tasting tours in Sevilla. Azahar-Sevilla.

More pâté recipes:

Partridge and Chicken Pâté.

Monkfish Liver Pâté.

Fish Terrine.

Piquillo Pepper and Tuna Pâté.

Olive Pâté.

More food and Sherry pairings:

Lamb Shanks with Prunes.

Oven-Braised Beef Cheeks.

Oloroso-Glazed Chicken al Ajillo.

Sheet Pan Rabbit with Oloroso Sherry.

More about Sherry:

The Wine That Goes with Everything.

A Week to Celebrate Sherry.

18TH CENTURY RECIPES FOR TODAY

A recipe from a few hundred years ago--orange and purple carrots in a light, sweet and sour sauce--tastes fresh today. It's a fine side dish for holiday meals.

Here’s a recipe from a cookbook published in 1767 that seems completely fresh today. In fact, I’m planning to serve these Sweet and Sour Carrots as a side dish with the coming week’s holiday meal. 

The recipe comes from Nuevo Arte de Cocina, Sacado de la Experiencia Economica, by Juan Altamiras, a Franciscan friar. I’ve had this little book in my culinary library for years and could never get past the old-fashioned spelling and typeface to actually try any of the recipes.

Vicky Hayward interprets an 18th century cookbook.

Until appeared a new edition, edited, annotated and translated into English by Vicky Hayward.

Vicky, a British journalist, historian and book editor based in Madrid since 1990, has given the recipes context by providing background for the Aragón-based friar’s original notes. Both her English and Spanish editions give Altamira’s original recipes followed by a modern-day transliteration with headnotes about ingredients and serving suggestions.

She transforms them into modern recipes that can be cooked in today’s kitchens. In the book's prologue, top chef, Andoni Luis Aduriz of Restaurante Mugaritz in the Basque Country, insists on the “value added” of old recipes that, as with very old wine, add another dimension, a sixth sense, a taste of history.

Vicky suggested to me a recipe for Roast Turkey with Cardoons and Lettuce from the book--but I wasn't ready to forego my favorite roast turkey recipe for the holidays. (The Altamiras recipe requires simmering the turkey in water before roasting.) So I have selected an enticing recipe for a side dish. Carrots, it is.

I'm thinking this is the perfect side dish with roast turkey or roast pork for Christmas dinner.

Sweet and Sour Carrots
Zanahorias con Miel y Vinagre de Vino

Altamiras doesn’t seem fond of carrots, perhaps because once they were considered animal forage. But, true to his purposes, he makes them exceptionally palatable. Here’s the original recipe:

Es comida simple, y bestial; si te gustan las Zanahorias, las pondrás à cocer con agua, y sal, y las harás raxas; con cebolla frita las pondrás en una cazuela y sazonandolas de todas especias, y sal, las echarás agua caliente hasta cubirse; las pondrás dulce de azucar o miel, y vinagre, que estén bien dulces o agrias; luego freirás un poco de harina, que estè bien quemada, la desatarás con el mismo caldo de las Zanahorias, y se trabará en un hervor, con que de almiento brutal passará à racional sustento. 

Vicky suggests using Chantenay carrots, a short, stubby variety of exceptional sweetness. She adds a garnish of chopped pistachios, a genius touch. While the original Altamiras recipe calls for the carrot cooking liquid to be thickened with toasted flour, Vicky opts for reducing the liquid to syrup.

Purple carrots, if you can get them, are gorgeous as well as delicious. Back in the 18th century, they were probably more common than today.

I used half regular carrots and half purple ones. I chose to cut them in thick crosswise slices. The purple carrot was huge, weighing almost 1 pound, so I cut it lengthwise into quarters, then sliced it crosswise. I cooked the orange and purple carrots separately and did not save the liquid from the purple ones. (It made a good stock for making borscht the next day; with beets, the deep color was perfect.)

Vicky suggests serving the carrots with plates of ham, with cod or with a garlicky lamb stew. I think they make a brilliant side with roast chicken or turkey, pork or ham. 

Serves 6-8.

Orange and purple carrots.

2 pounds carrots
Salt
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup finely chopped onion
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

Freshly ground black pepper

Pinch of caraway seeds (optional)

Chopped pistachios to garnish
Chopped chives to garnish

Peel the carrots and cut them crosswise. Cook in boiling salted water to the desired degree of tenderness (3 minutes was sufficient for me). Drain the carrots, saving the cooking water. Rinse the carrots in cold water to stop the cooking.

Return the cooking liquid to the pan, bring to a boil and reduce to 2 cups. Sieve the liquid and reserve it.

Heat the oil in a pan and sauté the onion until softened, 5 minutes. Add the 2 cups of reduced cooking liquid, the honey, vinegar, pepper, caraway, if using, and, if necessary, salt. Bring to a boil and simmer until the liquid is reduced and syrupy. Taste and balance the sweet and sour flavors.

Return the carrots to the pan. Cook them in the syrup until heated through, 5 minutes.

Serve the carrots garnished with chopped pistachios and chives.

Chopped pistachios and a sprinkle of chives or green onions are a terrific garnish for the carrots.

New Art of Cookery. By Juan Altamiras—A Spanish Friar’s Kitchen Notebook  by Vicky Hayward (Rowman & Littlefield; 2017).

More recipes with carrots:
Purple Carrots with Raisins and Pine Nuts.
Minted Carrot Salad.
Vegan Carrot Cream Soup.
Millet and Carrot Pilaf.

FELICES FIESTAS!      HAPPY HOLIDAYS!