Saturday, May 30, 2026

STUFFED EGGS ARE CROWD-PLEASERS!

 
Your guests will love these eggs stuffed with chopped shrimp.

If you’re having a backyard party or you’re off to a community potluck, stuffed eggs are the answer. In any form, they are real crowd-pleasers. I like them, too, as a simple lunch dish, served with chilled gazpacho in a glass.


The Spanish rendition of huevos rellenos (stuffed eggs), once a typical selection in tapas bars, is usually made with canned tuna mashed with the yolks, the tops napped with mayonnaise—often homemade with extra virgin olive oil. This version, with shrimp instead of tuna, is rather more elegant. 

Vary the recipe to suit yourself or your guests’ tastes. Chives instead of parsley. Chopped pickles in place of capers. Use lobster instead of shrimp. Add Dijon mustard and/or Tabasco and call the eggs "devilled." I mashed a fillet of salty anchovy with the yolks to give the mixture extra oomph. 

Tips: You can easily double or quadruple this recipe for a crowd. But be sure to leave yourself enough time to peel two or three dozen eggs! Cut a sliver off the bottom of each half-egg white so they sit flat on the serving plate. Oh yes, don’t leave that reserved half-yolk on the kitchen cabinet—the ants will get it. It’s officially summer when the ants return to my kitchen.



Eggs Stuffed with Shrimp
Huevos Rellenos con Gambas

The ingredients for the stuffing can be chopped and mashed with the yolks or, if you prefer, put everything in a mini-processor and chop them together. 

Use any size shrimp (gamba or langostino). Chop them fairly small for the stuffing. Tiny whole shrimp can be used to decorate the tops of the eggs.

Serves 8 (½ egg per person).

4 (large) eggs
3 ounces peeled shrimp (to make ½ cup chopped)
1 anchovy fillet, drained (optional)
1 teaspoon minced or grated onion
1 teaspoon drained capers or olives + more for garnish
1 teaspoon chopped red pimiento + more for garnish
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon mayonnaise
Salt to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
Salad greens to serve

Bring a pan of water to a boil. Carefully lower the eggs into the pan and cook them 10 to 12 minutes. Drain and cover the eggs with cold water. Allow them to cool.

Mash yolks with other ingredients.
Peel the eggs and cut them in half lengthwise. Remove the yolks. Reserve ½ of 1 yolk and place the rest in a bowl. Mash them with a fork. Cut a sliver off the bottom of the whites so they don’t wobble and place on a serving plate or in a covered plastic container and refrigerate.

Chop together the shrimp, anchovy, onion, capers, and pimiento. Add this mixture to the yolks and mash them together. Add the parsley, lemon juice, oil and mayonnaise. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 

Spoon the yolk-shrimp mixture into the 8 egg whites. Cover and chill. 

To serve, garnish the tops of the stuffed eggs with capers, red pimiento, and small shrimp, as desired. Place them on a serving plate with salad greens. Grate the reserved half-egg yolk over the tops of the eggs.



More versions of stuffed eggs:

A tray of stuffed eggs ready to take to a friend's potluck. These are classic eggs stuffed with tuna and chopped olives.







 
This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times.  (Hippocrene Books)    

 Order on IndiePubs (USA) 

Use PROMO CODE HIPPOCRENE40 for 40% off on all Hippocrene titles at IndiePubs online bookstore.

Saturday, May 23, 2026

CABBAGE-CENTRIC

 


I’m in a cabbage state of mind. With a plenitude of cabbages from the garden, I have been searching my files for cabbage recipes. With only one or two people to feed, a single cabbage goes a long way—half a head makes a veggie main dish for one meal, coleslaw with another quarter, an addition to Asian stir-fry for the rest. I even pulled out The Joy of Cooking in search of a recipe for sauerkraut (but did not try it). This week it’s trinxat, a Catalan dish of cabbage and potatoes.


I posted a recipe for trinxat way back in 2014. The recipe was taken from Chef Jeff Weiss’s book, Charcutería, The Soul of Spain. With the addition of butter, that recipe is rather more cheffy than the traditional, rustic dish, which is made with pork fat and olive oil. 

The traditional recipe comes from the Catalan region of the Cerdanya, the top northeast of Spain, where the Pyrenees mountains divide Spain and France. It can be made with scraps of pancetta, bacon, pork sausage, or Catalan butifarra sausage. Trinxat means “chopped” or “mashed,” as the cabbage and potatoes are crushed while frying in pork fat. 

Trinxat makes a splendid supper dish or might be served as a vegetable side. (For a vegetarian version, omit the porky bits and use additional olive oil.) 

Hash-brown cabbage and potatoes are topped with bacon and garlic, served with tomato sauce alongside.



Catalan Cabbage and Potato Hash
Trinxat

The idea is to fry the cooked cabbage and potatoes into a sort-of cake, somewhat like a potato tortilla. Start by boiling the cabbage and potatoes. Drain them well. Fry them in bacon fat, crushing them with a wooden spoon or potato masher until completely smashed. Press the mixture into a round cake, firming up the edges, and let it brown on the bottom. Either flip the mixture over, like a thick pancake, or, in the manner of a potato tortilla, hold a flat plate over the skillet and reverse it, turning the vegetables onto the plate, then sliding them back to brown on the reverse side. Unlike a tortilla that is set with eggs, the trinxat is not firm enough to hold its shape. It will slump. Never mind. Spread it out into a cake again and let the bottom brown. If the mixture falls apart, just scoop it up and serve it like hash. 

Serve the trinxat, if desired, accompanied by a simple sofrito (fried tomato sauce). 

Serves 4.

8 cups coarsely chopped cabbage (½ cabbage, about 1 ¾ pounds)
2 ½ cups diced potatoes (1 pound)
Salt
6 tablespoons olive oil
4-6 ounces pancetta, bacon, butifarra, or pork sausage
2 cloves garlic, sliced
1/8 teaspoon cumin seeds
Freshly ground black pepper

Cook the cabbage and potatoes in boiling salted water until very tender, 20 minutes. Drain well. Return the vegetables to the pan over a low heat to evaporate all the moisture. 

Cut the pancetta or bacon into strips. If using sausage, remove from casings and break into pieces. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a non-stick skillet. Add the pancetta and garlic and fry until pancetta is crisp. Remove the pan from the heat, tip it so the oil runs to one side, and skim out the pancetta and garlic. 

Return the pan to the heat. Add the cabbage and potatoes. Use a wooden paddle, spoon, or potato masher to chop and mash the vegetables until they are reduced to a lumpy mush. Stir some of the pancetta and garlic into the vegetables, reserving the rest to garnish the top of the dish. Season with salt to taste, cumin, and pepper.
Firm edges.

Keep turning the vegetables until they are thoroughly heated. Now press them into a cake, using the wooden paddle or spatula to firm the sides, pulling them away from the rim of the pan. Add 2 tablespoons of oil around the edges of the “cake.” Keep frying on medium-high until the vegetables begin to smell like they are browning on the bottom.
Slide hash back into skillet.
Lightly oil a flat plate that will fit over the top of the skillet. Hold it tightly on top of the skillet and reverse the cake onto the plate. Don’t worry if it loses its round shape. Add remaining 2 tablespoons of oil to the skillet. With a spatula, push the cake off the plate back into the skillet. Again, smooth it into a round cake and firm the sides. Let the bottom brown. 

Either slide the cake out onto a clean serving plate or, again, reverse it onto the serving plate. Top it with the reserved pancetta and garlic. 



Trinxat shaped into individual patties.

Another rendition of trinxat. Here the cabbage-potato mixture is shaped into patties and fried. That recipe (along with a chef's recipe for sofrito tomato sauce) is here.

More recipes from my cabbage repertoire:











 
This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times.  (Hippocrene Books)    

 Order on IndiePubs (USA) 

Use PROMO CODE HIPPOCRENE40 for 40% off on all Hippocrene titles at IndiePubs online bookstore.

Saturday, May 16, 2026

RING COOKIES FOR A SAINT'S DAY

 

Rosquillas de San Isidro--ring cookies for the saint's day.


Did you pay homage to San Isidro yesterday (May 15)? Patron saint of Madrid, San Isidro is the cause for a week’s celebration in the city, with deliciously old-fashioned customs such as donning the traditional puffy-sleeved chulapa dress with a pair of red carnations tucked in your kerchiefed head (or for the gentlemen, white shirts and checkered vests) and dancing the chotis; drinking the curative spring water at the saint’s shrine, and, even if you don’t take a picnic to the Pradera de San Isidro (San Isidro's meadow), at least partaking of a few rosquillas listas y tontas.


La Pradera de San Isidro, sketch by Francisco de Goya (Museo del Prado)

Rosquillas are ring cookies, a kissing cousin to doughnuts. They come both “listas” and “tontas”—"smarties" or "dummies". They are basically the same cookies, but the “smarties,” with sugar glaze, are fancier than the plain “dummies.”

Did you know that Madrid is the only European capital with Muslim origin? At the time of San Isidro’s birth (1070), the village of Madrid was part of the taifa (Islamic emirate) of Toledo. His family belonged to the Mozarab population, Christians who lived in a Muslim culture. (The word “mozárabe” comes from Arabic and means “would-be Arab”). Following the Christian reconquest of Toledo, Madrid would become part of the Christian kingdom of Castilla. Known as the patron saint of campesinos, peasants and farm workers, the devout San Isidro is often depicted at prayer while angels plow the fields. 

Rosquillas de San Isidro
Ring Cookies for San Isidro Day

Rosquillas are perfect for a tea party--or a picnic.

These cookies are not overly sweet. Too much sugar makes a sticky dough that is hard to work with. If you like more sweetness, go for the rosquillas listas, with a white icing. The ingredients given for the icing/glaze, with a whole egg white, will make enough for 16 rosquillas. If you’re only glazing half of them, you’ll have leftover icing.

If you like the flavor of anise a lot, add a tablespoon of anise liqueur to the dough in addition to the aniseed. If you don’t like it at all, substitute cinnamon for the aniseed. 

Knead the dough very briefly with only a little additional flour to make a soft dough that, although slightly sticky, can be rolled into small balls. Let the dough rest before rolling into balls to shape the rosquillas. Dip fingers into additional oil to roll the dough. Place the rings well separated, as they will expand in baking. Some may even bake closed in the center. (I wonder if these are the smarties or dumb-ies?)


The ring cookies are perfect for dunking—in coffee, tea, milk, or an herbal tisane. They are also a perfect accompaniment to sweet wine. Pack them on a picnic to the shrine of San Isidro or serve them for breakfast or snack any time of the year.

Looped on cords of rushes for picnic




Makes 16 (3-inch) ring cookies.

2 ½ cups flour + more for shaping dough
1 teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons aniseed
4 eggs (1 separated)
½ cup granulated sugar
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil + more for shaping dough
¾ cup confectioners’ sugar
2 teaspoons lemon juice

Sift together the 2 ½ cups flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the aniseed.

In a mixing bowl on medium-high speed, beat 3 eggs with the sugar until the eggs are light in color, increased in volume, and very slightly thickened. Beat in the oil. 

Add the flour mixture to the eggs and combine well to make a soft dough. Knead in just enough additional flour so that the dough can be gathered into a ball. Cover with plastic wrap and rest the dough 30 minutes at room temperature or refrigerate for longer. 

Preheat oven to 425ºF with convection fan (or 450ºF without fan). Line a baking sheet with parchment. 

Place a spoonful of oil in a small bowl. Dip fingers into the oil to prevent dough from sticking. Divide dough into 16 walnut-size balls (approx. 1.4 ounces each). Place them 1 ½ inches apart on the baking sheet.


Dip a finger into the oil and press into the center of each ball of dough to open a hole and stretch the dough into a ring.

Mix 1 egg yolk with 1 teaspoon of water. Brush the tops of the cookies. Bake them until nicely browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Cool cookies on racks.


Place 1 egg white in a bowl and beat until foamy. Add the confectioners’ sugar and beat at high speed 4 minutes. Beat in the lemon juice.


Place half of the cookies on a rack over sheet pan or paper to catch the drips. Either spoon the egg white glaze over them or else carefully dip them, topside down, into the egg white glaze. Place the rack in turned-off oven to dry for 15 minutes. The remaining unglazed cookies are the tontas. 


More recipes for roscos/rosquillas:



Orange-Scented Ring Cookies (Roscos de Naranja)
This recipe appears in FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS, The Culinary Legacy of Spain (Hippocrene Books; 2025). (See below for where to order.)








 
This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times.  (Hippocrene Books)    

 Order on IndiePubs (USA) 

Use PROMO CODE HIPPOCRENE40 for 40% off on all Hippocrene titles at IndiePubs online bookstore.