Saturday, April 11, 2026

BRISKET IN MY BASKET

 
Pot-roasted brisket with vegetables.

I finally got my brisket, a cut of beef that is not readily available from Spanish butchers. I stumbled onto a specialty butcher and, yes! He pulled a whole brisket from his cold locker. I’m not sure why the supermarket butchers don’t sell it—perhaps it is a cut used for grinding into burger mix. The brisket, called pecho, or breast, is a boneless slab, about 3 inches thick, depending on the size of the animal. It needs long, slow cooking to make a tender pot roast. 


I bought half a whole brisket. Weighing about 3 pounds, it was cut from ternera, a word that means “veal,” but in Spain is actually young beef. A young animal lacks layers of fat which keep it juicy. My brisket pot-roasted in a slow oven for about 2 ½ hours and was wonderfully tender, but not juicy as I remember brisket in America. Next time I have a hankering for pot roast, perhaps I will special-order a brisket cut from a beefy retinto steer. (See this post for more about the retinto breed of cattle. )

My pot roast started out as a Passover dinner (not an authentic seder, as we had no matzah), had a second-coming at Easter, and finished as filling for tacos. 

For my brisket I borrowed from Sephardic recipes which often include a sweet ingredient, such as sweet wine, date syrup, or brown sugar. Here’s my version. If you’ve got a bigger piece of meat, increase the quantities and cooking time.

The slow-cooked meat is very tender, but, lacking fat, is not juicy. The savory pan juices add moisture.




Pot-Roasted Beef Brisket
Pecho de Ternera Asado 

Add vegetables to the pan with the meat, as desired. Remove them when tender. Once cooked, carrots can be seasoned and served alongside, room temperature or reheated. The cooking juices from the meat can be served straight from the pan or sieved; blended, or thickened with cornstarch or flour for gravy.

3 pounds beef brisket
1 teaspoon coarse salt
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
3 cloves garlic 
1 teaspoon pimentón de la Vera (smoked paprika)
3 tablespoons olive oil + additional for greasing the pan
1 tablespoon Sherry vinegar
1 red onion, sliced
1 medium tomato, peeled and chopped
¼ cup sweet wine, such as PX Sherry
1 cup chicken or beef stock, heated
1-2 bay leaves
4-6 pitted dates
Carrots, peeled
Potatoes, peeled
Chopped fresh parsley to serve

Place the piece of meat on a work surface. In a mortar crush the coarse salt with peppercorns, garlic, and pimentón. Stir in the oil and vinegar. Spread this mixture over the surface of the meat and allow it to come to room temperature.

Ready for the oven.
Preheat oven to 350ºF.

Lightly oil a roasting pan, Dutch oven, or large cast iron skillet. Spread the sliced onion and chopped tomatoes in the pan and place the meat on top. Pour in the wine and hot meat stock. Add the bay leaves, dates and whole carrots. Cover the meat with a sheet of baking parchment that has been dampened and slightly crumpled, to facilitate fitting it around the meat. Cover the pan with foil and seal the edges. Place the pan in the oven for 20 minutes. 

Lower temperature to 300ºF. 

Continue roasting 40 minutes more. Remove the pan from the oven and remove the foil and parchment. If carrots are done, remove them. Add potatoes. Turn the meat over and baste with some of the pan juices. Add additional stock if pan seems dry. Cover again with parchment and foil and return the pan to the oven. Roast until the meat is fork-tender, about 1 ½ hours more, basting once or twice. 

Remove the brisket to a cutting board and allow to rest 10 minutes. Slice it fairly thinly. Discard bay leaves from the pan. The pan juices can be sieved, if desired. 

To serve, reheat the sliced meat in the pan juices. Serve with carrots and potatoes. Sprinkle with parsley. 

Pot-Roasted Spiced Carrots
Zanahorias Asadas con Especias

Add spices and olive oil to cooked carrots.


Here’s how to season those carrots that roasted with the meat. Add the spices and dressing and serve them room temperature or reheat, if desired.

Roasted Carrots
Dry ginger
Ground cumin
Raisins
Pine nuts
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Sherry vinegar
Harissa (Moroccan chile paste), optional
Pomegranate molasses (optional)
Chopped mint

Pot-roast whole, peeled carrots with the brisket. Remove them when tender. Cut them on the diagonal into 1 ½ -inch pieces. Place in a bowl and sprinkle with ginger, cumin, raisins, pine nuts. Add oil, salt, pepper, and vinegar. Add a little chile paste or pomegranate molasses, if desired. Serve room temperature sprinkled with mint.



More recipes for brisket/pot roast:








 
This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times.  (Hippocrene Books)    

 Order on IndiePubs (USA) 

Use PROMO CODE HIPPOCRENE40 for 40% off on all Hippocrene titles at IndiePubs online bookstore.

Saturday, April 4, 2026

CHOCOLATE FOR EASTER (AND PASSOVER TOO)

 

This chocolate-almond torte is a perfect dessert for Easter, Passover, or any special occasion.

My all-time favorite dessert, the Santiago Almond Torte, got a makeover for Easter. I added chocolate. While searching for similar almond torte recipes, I came across a bunch that were special for Passover, the Jewish spring festival that often coincides with Easter. Just swap matzah meal for the flour or cookie crumbs in the basic recipe. So this is a dessert perfect for both holidays.


This version, adapted from The Settlement Cook Book by Mrs. Simon Kander (1942?), calls for raisins as well as chocolate. Do not skip this ingredient! Soaked in sweet wine, the raisins add a wonderful fruitiness to the deep chocolate flavor. (Because I have my own dietary restrictions, I used no-sugar-added chocolate [Valor brand, sweetened with malitol]; no-sugar cookie crumbs [also sweetened with mailitol, Gullón brand], and zero-calorie “baking sugar alternative” [King Arthur brand].) 

The torte has no added fat, so serving it with whipped cream, Greek yogurt, or vanilla ice cream enhances. If you prefer no dairy, try a tart raspberry sauce with the torte.

A pretty dessert for the holiday table.


Whipped cream or thick yogurt enhances the torte.


Chocolate-Almond Torte
Torta de Chocolate con Almendras

Toasting and grinding the almonds gives a pleasing texture to the finished torte. However, you could substitute almond flour. Use any plain cookie for the crumbs—galletas María, vanilla wafers, graham crackers. Use any combination of dark chocolate and unsweetened cocoa to make approximately 4 ounces of chocolate. Use a food processor to grind the almonds and cookie crumbs and to chop the chocolate. The raisins, almonds, cookie crumbs, and chopped chocolate can be prepped a day in advance of baking.

In separating eggs, to prevent breaking a yolk into the whites, separate the white into a small ramekin. Drop the yolk into a mixing bowl, then pour the white from the ramekin into another clean mixing bowl. Should one of the yolks break into the white, add the whole egg to the bowl with the yolks to avoid mixing any yolk into the whites. 

Makes 10-12 servings.

½ cup raisins
¼ cup sweet wine such as PX Sherry
6 ounces blanched almonds (1 ¼ cups)
2 ounces plain cookies or matzah meal (½ cup)
3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped (¾ cup) 
3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
5 large eggs, separated
¼ teaspoon vinegar
½ cup sugar
Powdered sugar to serve (optional)
Raspberries to decorate (optional)

Place raisins in a small bowl and add the wine. Let them soak at least 2 hours.

Spread almonds on a rimmed baking sheet. Place them in the oven and turn oven on to 400ºF. When oven reaches temperature, stir the almonds and roast them 5 minutes longer or until pale gold in color. They do not need to toast. Remove and let the almonds cool. Turn the oven temperature to 350ºF. (If not continuing with the recipe, turn off the oven.) 

Line pan with parchment.
Grind the almonds in a food processor as finely as desired. Grind the cookies finely. Combine the chopped chocolate with the cocoa.

Preheat oven to 350ºF. Line the bottom of a 9-inch springform pan with baking parchment. Oil the sides. 

Place the egg whites in a clean bowl and beat them until they hold stiff peaks. Beat in the vinegar.

Fold whites into batter.
Place the egg yolks in a mixing bowl and beat them until pale and creamy, 3 minutes. Beat in the sugar. Stir in the raisins soaked in wine. Fold in the ground almonds, cookie crumbs or matzah meal, and chocolate with cocoa. Add ¼ of the beaten egg whites and stir them into the batter until thoroughly mixed. Add the remaining whites and fold them in until no trace of whites remains. Pour the batter into the springform pan. Bake until a skewer comes out clean, about 40 minutes. 

Let the torte cool in the pan. Loosen the edges of the torte with a thin knife and remove the rim of the pan. Lift the torte off the pan bottom. Slide it off the parchment onto a serving plate. Before serving sift powdered sugar on top, if desired, and decorate with a few raspberries.



More recipes for almond torte:




View from my desk--wisteria and mimosa in bloom. 



 
This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times.  (Hippocrene Books)    

 Order on IndiePubs (USA) 

Use PROMO CODE HIPPOCRENE40 for 40% off on all Hippocrene titles at IndiePubs online bookstore.

Saturday, March 28, 2026

LENTEN MEALS, BEYOND BACALAO

 
Batter-fried shrimp.

I remember my first Semana Santa in Málaga--60 years ago!—ducking into a tapas bar while processions were wending their way through city streets. We ordered a vinito and tapas. 


I already had sampled bacalao, salt cod, the emblematic food for Holy Week. But here were so many other seafood-based possibilities. We ordered a media-racion (half-plate) of gambas rebozadas, batter-dipped shrimp, and watched as a cook speared peeled shrimp on toothpicks, dipped them in batter, and dropped them into bubbling oil to fry. The shrimp were served piping hot with nothing more elaborate than a lemon wedge to accompany them.



The recipe for the batter-fried shrimp is below. And here are links to more than a dozen other recipes—beyond bacalao—that are popular for Holy Week. From soup to rice, fish to eggs, as well as vegetarian legume stews. 


This soup, 
caldillo de pintarroja, is another Málaga specialty. It's warming, restorative, eye-opening. Unusually in Spanish cooking, the soup packs a real jolt of chile.

Caldillo actually means “broth,” not soup. The broth has chunks of fish—pintarroja—and clams in it.  Ground almonds and bread thicken it slightly.

Broth with Fish and Clams (Caldillo de Pintarroja)



Leek and potato soup, a Basque dish called porrusalda, is typical during Lent. It can be vegetarian or contain salt cod.   

Leek and Potato Soup (Porrusalda).

Panadons
are the Catalan version of empanadillas. These are made with a yeast dough and filled with spinach, pine nuts, and raisins. 

Empanadillas with Spinach (Panadons) You'll also find a recipe here for fried empanadillas with tuna-olive filling, another good Lenten treat. 


Eggs are a favored standby for Lenten meals and the Spanish potato tortilla is classic. This variation from Murcia is made with eggplant, zucchini, and red peppers, no potatoes.

Eggplant Tortilla (Tortilla de Berenjena)





When meat is off the menu, legumes are a good source of protein. This (vegan) stew has the fresh springtime flavor of fennel with white beans (from a jar), pumpkin and potatoes. 

Lenten Fennel Soup with Beans (Potaje de Hinojo para Vigilia)



In Sevilla, Spinach with Chickpeas is a favorite tapas bar dish. (It usually has more spinach than chickpeas than my version.) The basic recipe is vegan, but for Holy Week it often has salt cod dumplings added. 

Spinach with Chickpeas  (Espinacas con Garbanzos)
Spinach and Chickpeas with Cod Dumplings (Potaje de Espinacas y Garbanzos con Rellenos de Bacalao)

Lentils are what Don Quixote ate on Fridays. Or, so Cervantes tells us in the first paragraph of the novel. Because it was Friday—usually a day of abstinence from meat in the Catholic Church—they were certainly lentils viudas, “widowed,” bereft of meat or sausage. These are flavored with cumin, pepper, and clove and make a terrific vegetarian meal. (On the recipe link, you will have to scroll past the recipe for sausages to get to the lentils! 

Don Quixote's Friday Lentils (Lentejas Viudas)


Sometimes legumes are combined with fish or shellfish. This potaje, or chickpea stew, has big shrimp, chard, squash, and a seafood sausage with squid ink that looks like morcilla black sausage! Hardly a penitence. The blog also explains the shrimp nomenclature--shrimp, prawn, scampi; gamba, langostino, cigala. (Pictured are langostinos.)

Shrimp and Chickpea Stew with Seafood Sausage (Potaje de Langostinos y Garbanzos con Embutido de Pescado)
Cuttlefish and Chickpea Stew (Potaje de Jibia con Garbanzos)



This combination of beans and clams is a Lenten version of Asturian fabada. Use any white bean if the true fabes, fat Asturian beans, are not available. Stir in some pimentón de la Vera, smoked paprika, to remind you of the chorizo you are not consuming. 

Beans with Clams (Alubias con Almejas)



This Alicante rice dish, a cousin of paella, is a celebration of springtime! With garden peas, fava beans, and artichokes along with pieces of cuttlefish it's perfect for Semana Santa. 

Rice with Peas and Cuttlefish (Arroz con Guisantes y Sepia)
Rice with Clams (Arroz con Almejas)



Migas are fried bread crumbs, a brunch or supper dish, that are usually made with bacon and sausage. But it's a versatile recipe that can easily be served vegetarian or pescatarian. Garnish with grapes, olives, and fried green peppers. Here the migas are accompanied by grilled sardines. 

Garlic-Fried Breadcrumbs (Migas Campesinas)




A whole conger eel at the market.

During Lent, the period leading up to Easter, when many Catholics observe days of vigilia, or abstinence from eating meat, the selection of fresh fish in Spanish markets is sensational. All fish and shellfish are considered suitable for Lenten meals, but some, such as salt cod, kippered sardines, and eel are favored. Pictured above is congrio, conger eel, at my local market. In Valencia, anguila, common eel, is popular for Holy Week.




If you haven't got an eel, make this Valencian dish with monkfish or other firm-fleshed fish. It's called all-i-pebre, which means "garlic and pepper" (as in red pepper or pimentón). 

Monkfish with Garlic and Pimentón (All-i-Pebre de Rap


So many fish in the sea, but not always at the market! Will it be a pretty wrasse for dinner on Good Friday? You will find hundreds (? ok, I didn't count them) of fish and shellfish recipes in my archive of blogs, including a dozen or more for bacalao. Use the tiny window in the upper left corner to Search (on a mobile phone, you have to select "View web version" to see the Search option). 

Baked Whole Fish with Chermoula Sauce and Preserved Lemons (Pescado al Horno con Salsa Chermoula)


Batter-Fried Shrimp
Gambas Rebozadas



If you’re serving the shrimp as bite-size tapas, choose medium-large shrimp, peel them completely, tail as well, and spear them on toothpicks. Dunk them in batter, picks and all. Or you can use large-to-jumbo sized shrimp (gambón or langostino) and leave the tails unpeeled. 

Use a small skillet and fry only 3 or 4 shrimp at a time. (Batter can be refrigerated and used again a day or two later.) Test the oil by adding a few drops of batter; it should quickly puff and rise to the top. Regulate the heat so the shrimp do not brown too quickly. Medium shrimp will cook in about 1 minute; jumbo shrimp in about 1 ½ minutes. To keep the oil clean, skim out fried bits of batter after every batch of shrimp. 

Makes 30-40 fried shrimp.

1 ½ pounds whole medium-large shrimp (30-40)
Toothpicks (optional)
Pinch saffron
8-10 tablespoons water
1 egg, lightly beaten
¾ teaspoon salt
1 cup flour
½ teaspoon baking powder
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
Olive oil for frying
Lemon wedges to serve

Spear on toothpicks (optional)
Peel the shrimp (save the heads for the stock-pot), leaving the tails unpeeled, if desired. Spear the shrimp on toothpicks if they are to be served as one-bite appetizers. Cover and refrigerate until ready to fry them.

Crush the saffron in a mortar and stir in 1 tablespoon of water.

Combine the egg and salt in a small bowl. Add the flour and baking powder. Stir in the saffron water. Stir in additional water, a tablespoon at a time, to make a batter the consistency of medium pancake batter (8 to 10 tablespoons). Let the batter rest at room temperature at least 30 minutes or, refrigerated, until the following day.


Stir parsley into the batter. Place oil in a pan to a depth of ½ inch and heat on medium-high. Test by dropping a small spoonful of batter into the oil; it should quickly rise to the surface.

Dip the shrimp into the batter. Letting excess drip off, place them in the hot oil. Don’t crowd the pan. Let the shrimp fry until golden-brown. Carefully turn and brown reverse sides. Skim the shrimp out and drain them on paper towels. Serve accompanied by lemon wedges.




 
This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times.  (Hippocrene Books)    

 Order on IndiePubs (USA) 

Use PROMO CODE HIPPOCRENE40 for 40% off on all Hippocrene titles at IndiePubs online bookstore.