Saturday, May 2, 2026

I PEELED THE FAVA BEANS!

 

We’re picking the last of the fava beans (habas, broad beans in U.K.) to make way for tomato plants. The tiny “baby” favas are pretty much finished, leaving plump mature beans. So, against my principals and local tradition, I am peeling them. That means first shelling the beans then, one by one, removing their outer skins. 

Pinch off fava skins.







The second-stage peeling is easy enough. Place the shelled favas in boiling salted water and cook 1 minute. Drain. While they are still warm, split the outer skins (with a knife or thumbnail) and pinch out the inner bean. Once cooked, peeled favas have a delightful springtime green color, whereas they darken if skins are left on. Depending on how long they’ve been stored since picking, they will need more or less cooking time. If they need longer cooking, add water, stock (ham-bone stock is good), or Sherry to the sauté pan.

I’m cooking my fava beans in a classic sauté with serrano ham. My only other embellishment is some chopped wild fennel, not the ferny leaves, but the tender new shoots and stems. Fennel is traditional with fava beans in Andalusia, perhaps because the wild fennel often grows alongside the favas. If you have not got wild fennel, use chopped cultivated fennel bulb. Or mint in place of fennel. 

Fava beans sautéed with serrano ham.

I’m using serrano ham, the ordinary salt-cured Spanish ham. The exquisite ibérico ham would take the favas to another level altogether. Whichever you choose, do not cook the ham with the fava beans, as heat hardens tender ham. Add it when the favas are ready to remove from the heat. If Spanish ham is not available, use any smoked ham, pancetta, or bacon, adding them to cook along with the favas.

Topped with a poached or fried egg, the favas are quite splendid. Serve them as a tapa or starter, accompanied by toast. 
Top the fava beans with a poached egg.


Serve the sautéed favas with toast.



Fava Bean Sauté with Ham
Salteada de Habas con Jamón

Peeled fava beans.
Serves 4.

2 ½ cups shelled fava beans (3-4 pounds in their pods)
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, sliced
¼ cup chopped spring onions
1 tablespoon chopped fennel (stems or bulb)
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Water, stock, or Sherry if needed
1-2 ounces Spanish ham, diced or cut in thin strips
Poached eggs
Sprigs of fennel or mint
Toast to accompany
Wild fennel shoot.

Add the shelled beans to a pan of boiling salted water and cook 1 minute. Drain. When the beans are cool enough to handle, remove their outer skins.

Heat the oil in a skillet or earthenware cazuela. Add the garlic and fry 1 minute. Add the onions and fennel, lower heat to medium, and sauté until softened, 4 minutes. Add the skinned favas, season with salt and pepper, and sauté a few minutes until cooked to desired tenderness. If necessary add a spoonful of water or stock. When beans are cooked, add the ham and remove the pan from the heat.

Divide the fava beans between 4 small cazuelas or shallow bowls. Top each with a poached egg and a sprig of fennel or mint.

More recipes with fava beans:













 
This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times.  (Hippocrene Books)    

 Order on IndiePubs (USA) 

Use PROMO CODE HIPPOCRENE40 for 40% off on all Hippocrene titles at IndiePubs online bookstore.



Saturday, April 25, 2026

Cocina de la Abuela—Grandma’s Kitchen

Savory chunks of lamb's liver and heart cooked in a sauce with wine. Simple and delicious.


La cocina de la abuela is a cuisine of aprovechamiento, of knowing how to take advantage of all food. How to turn leftovers into a tasty meal—today’s fried fish go into tomorrow’s fish soup. How to use all the parts of a butchered animal. How to feed a family with little means. To describe la cocina de la abuela we use words such as reconfortante, comfort food; de cuchara, spoon food; humilde, humble; casera or de hogar, home cooking; económico, thrifty; frugal. 


 I qualify as an abuela. So, last week, when presented with a bagful of lamb viscera—we had roasted one lamb and butchered another for the freezer—it seemed appropriate to cook like an abuela. 

While cooking with wine might seem unlikely in granny's kitchen, I can assure you that, in former times, a jug of wine was more likely to hand than fresh drinking water that had to be carried from a spring. In the pueblo kitchens where I cooked alongside various abuelas, that wine was usually a dry white wine from Montilla (Córdoba), somewhat in the style of fino Sherry. 

Potatoes, usually fried, were the thrifty abuela's addition to any meal. They extended a small quantity of meat to feed a large family. 

I started with two livers, two hearts, and four kidneys. I lost abuela points for frugality because I pitched out the lungs (pulmones). I remember eating them in a tapas bar years ago and did not much care for their texture. I never found the sweetbreads (mollejas). The tripe had been discarded when the animals were slaughtered. And, I never saw the heads, so no brains or tongue. 

Organ meats are highly perishable, best consumed very fresh. So, a day after the lamb-roasting party, I cooked off all the casquería, offal or “variety meats” in a day! 

Lamb kidneys in Sherry sauce go nicely with mashed potatoes.

Patatas fritas! Fries to go with the saucy liver and heart dish. 


Sliced liver, dusted with flour and fried in olive oil, still pink in the center. This is my preferred way to cook liver. I didn't even bother with onions, but served the liver accompanied by zeilouk, a spicy Moroccan dish of eggplant with onions. 

Lamb’s Liver and Heart in Granny’s Sauce
Asadurilla en Salsa de la Abuelita

Heart is a muscle, more like lean meat than it is like visceral liver. It can be sliced and quickly grilled or else cooked slowly until tender. Abuela probably would cook both the firm heart and delicate liver (and lungs, if using) all together. However, I added the tender liver to cook only a few minutes at the very end. 

Serves 6 (or, with potatoes, more).

2 pounds lamb hearts and liver
¼ tablespoons olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
¾ cup chopped red bell pepper
2 cloves chopped garlic
1 grated tomato
1/3 cup white wine
¾ cup meat or chicken stock
Salt to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
1 bay leaf
Sprig of thyme
Chopped parsley

Soak the hearts and livers separately in ice water to remove all traces of blood. Drain.

Cut the hearts and liver into bite-size pieces, discarding any hard bits and membrane. Keep the two meats separate. Pat dry.

Heat half the oil in a heavy skillet on medium-high. Fry the pieces of liver until lightly browned on all sides and skim them out. Brown the pieces of heart and remove to a separate plate.

Add the remaining oil. Sauté the onion, red pepper, and garlic until they are soft, 5 minutes, moderating the heat so they don’t brown. Add the tomato pulp, raise heat and cook until the liquid evaporates. Add the wine and cook off the alcohol. Add the stock. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed. Return the pieces of heart to the pan. Add the bay leaf and thyme. Simmer, covered, until the hearts are tender, 15 minutes. Add the pieces of liver and cook 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Serve garnished with chopped parsley.

Lamb Kidneys with Sherry
Riñones al Jerez

Serves 4.

8 ounces clean lamb kidneys
Milk to soak the kidneys
2 teaspoons flour + more for dredging
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
¼ cup finely chopped onions or shallots
1 ounce chopped bacon
4 ounces sliced mushrooms
2 cloves minced garlic
¼ cup dry Sherry
¾ cup meat or chicken stock
¼ cup peas
Pimentón (paprika)
Chopped parsley

Cut the kidneys in quarters, removing the kernel of fat in each. Place the kidneys in a small bowl and cover them with milk. Let them soak, covered and refrigerated, at least 1 hour. Drain them well and discard the milk. Dust the kidneys with flour that has been mixed with salt and pepper. 

Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a skillet on medium-high. Fry the kidneys quickly, turning them to lightly brown both sides. They do not need to cook through. Remove and reserve them.

Add the onions to the oil and sauté on medium 2 minutes. Add the bacon, mushrooms, and garlic. Drizzle with remaining 1 tablespoon of oil. Sauté until mushrooms are browned, 4-5 minutes. Add the Sherry and cook off the alcohol. Stir in 2 teaspoons of flour. Add the stock and cook, stirring, until sauce is thickened slightly. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Return the kidneys to the pan and simmer them on medium-low until they are cooked through, 5 minutes. Add the peas. 

Serve the kidneys and sauce sprinkled with pimentón and parsley.


More recipes with offal:













 
This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times.  (Hippocrene Books)    

 Order on IndiePubs (USA) 

Use PROMO CODE HIPPOCRENE40 for 40% off on all Hippocrene titles at IndiePubs online bookstore.



Saturday, April 18, 2026

WHEN LIFE GIVES YOU LEMONS, HAVE A PARTY


 These springtime lemons are of a variety (Real) that produces enormous fruits with thick skin and pith and juice that is not very acidic, though not quite sweet. Known in Málaga as cascarúo, they are traditionally sold by street vendors, peeled, quartered, and sprinkled with salt, to be eaten out of hand. They also can be chopped up into a gazpacho in place of tomatoes.

This tangy mix of lemons and radishes can be served as a salad or relish.

I picked the few remaining lemons on my tree, which is now in full, fragrant blossom. I cut up a large lemon to put into a kind of salad called mojete, adding radishes from the garden, and served it as a relish to accompany lamb roasted on a fire pit for my son Ben’s birthday bash. Tangy and crunchy, the lemon salad was perfect with pieces of succulent lamb stuffed in pita pockets. 

A whole lamb roasted on a fire pit with relishes to go with. From right to left, Mourad's spicy cilantro sauce with harissa; the mojete of lemons and radish; cucumber-yogurt tzatziki; Nick's chili oil; harissa; and garlicky slaw with pomegranate. Not pictured, zeilouk, a cumin-y Moroccan eggplant salad, and hummus plus pita pockets. 

Lemon Dunking Salad
Mojete de Limones Cascarúos

If using a cascarúo lemon, leave some of the white pith. It is not bitter. If substituting ordinary lemons, which are considerably more acidic than the cascarúos, add a teaspoon of honey or sugar to tame the tang. Serve the salad on lettuce accompanied by bread for dunking or as a relish to accompany roast meat or fish.
 
Serves 4 as a starter or 10 as relish

Cascarúo lemon
1-2 large lemons
6-8 small radishes
½ carrot
2 tablespoons chopped scallions
Chopped parsley
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
Lettuce (optional)
Bread to accompany

 

Garden radishes
Peel the lemon, slice it, and remove any seeds. Chop the lemon and place in a bowl with juice. Quarter and slice the radishes and add to the lemon. Cut the carrot in slivers and add to the lemon with the scallions and parsley. Stir in the oil and salt. Mix well. Allow the salad to stand 30 minutes before serving. If serving as individual salads, place lettuce on plates and divide salad between them. 

To make gazpacho with lemons, called zoque de limón, use this recipe for Peasant Gazpacho with No Tomatoes. Substitute chopped lemons for the cucumbers and add a teaspoon of pimentón (paprika).

The recipe for garlicky cabbage with caraway, croutons, and pomegranate can be found in my newest cookbook, Flavors of al-Andalus (see below for where to order), or see the blog post here. The slaw goes great with grilled foods. 

Here's a bonus recipe for lemons, from my book, Cooking from the Heart of Spain, Food of La Mancha (2006, WilliamMorrow, NY):


Lemon Salad with Shrimp
Moje de Limones
In Alcázar de San Juan, a town right in the middle of La Mancha, this salad is served as a lunchtime dish on fiesta days. It’s served in a big bowl with lots of bread for dipping into the tangy juices, a sort of dunking salad. The traditional lemon salad does not contain shrimp—that was my idea. 

Serves 4.

3 medium lemons
½ cup chopped scallion
½ cup pitted black olives, halved
¼ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
¼ pound peeled small shrimp
Lettuce or other salad greens for serving
Chopped fresh parsley or cilantro for garnish

Slice off both ends of the lemons. Set a lemon on end on a cutting board. With a sharp knife, slice down, removing both peel and pith in one cut. Turn the lemon and continue peeling it in this manner. Slice the lemon crosswise and discard any seeds. Chop the lemon. Repeat with the remaining 2 lemons. Put the chopped lemon in a bowl. Add the scallion, olives, salt, and eggs to the lemon. Stir in the oil. Let the salad stand for 1 hour.

Cook the shrimp in boiling salted water for 1 minute. Drain and rinse in cold water.

Line salad plates with lettuce leaves or other greens. Spoon the lemon mixture on top. Scatter the shrimp over the lemon. Garnish with cilantro and serve. 




More recipes with lemons:









Me and the birthday boy, with lamb ready to serve to guests.  (For more about roasting the lamb, see last year's birthday post here.)



 
This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times.  (Hippocrene Books)    

 Order on IndiePubs (USA) 

Use PROMO CODE HIPPOCRENE40 for 40% off on all Hippocrene titles at IndiePubs online bookstore.