ROE, ROE, ROE YOUR BOAT

Ben came home from surfing on the Atlantic coast with a lovely two-pound fish, a baila, spotted sea bass (Dicentrarchus labrax). The fish vendor at the market had removed the lobes of roe and bagged them separately. Ben cooked the whole fish with potatoes panadera (that recipe is here) to which he added sliced zucchini, broccoli florets, and, his special touch, slivers of chile. I contemplated the roe.
 

The roes (huevas) from most saltwater fish and shellfish are edible. In Spain, the most common roe consumed fresh are those from hake (merluza) and choco (cuttlefish). If roe is loosened from its sac and processed with salt, it can be called “caviar” only if it comes from sturgeon, according to the FAO (the Food and Agriculture Organization of the UN). Other roes, from salmon, trout, lumpfish, ling cod,  similarly processed, are “substitutes of caviar.”  

Roe is delicate, grainy.

Use fresh fish roe raw in sushi. It also can be poached and served cold with aliño, dressing, or floured and fried.

The roe of this bass was very mild in taste and, in mouthfeel, was both delicate and grainy, with a slight crunch. 

Here is the way roe is served in tapa bars in Cádiz and Málaga. The cooked roe can also be cut into smaller pieces and mixed with the tomato-pepper dressing.

 

Fish roe is poached, sliced and dressed with a chopped tomato-pepper aliño.

Fish Roe with Chopped Dressing

Huevas de Pescado con Aliño

To prevent the membranes enclosing the roe from splitting during cooking, wrap the lobes in plastic wrap. Poach them in simmering water. 

Serves 2 to 4.

Lobes of fish roe.

6-8 ounces fish roe (2 lobes)

Salt

¼ cup chopped green bell pepper

¼ cup chopped red bell pepper

3 tablespoons chopped scallions

½ cup chopped tomatoes

1 tablespoon chopped green olives (optional) 

1 tablespoon Sherry vinegar

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil + more for drizzling

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Shredded lettuce

Hard-boiled egg

Flaky salt

Use scissors to separate the lobes of fish roe but do not remove the membrane encasing them. Wash gently in cold water. Pat dry and salt the roe lightly. Wrap each lobe in plastic wrap, folding in the ends so water doesn’t get inside the wrap. Place them in a pan, cover with hot water, and place the pan on medium-high heat until the water boils. Turn down the heat to a simmer and cook the roe 15 minutes. Remove the roe and let them cool, still wrapped. 

Combine the green and red peppers, scallions, tomatoes, and olives, if using. Add the vinegar, oil and salt and mix well. 

Unwrap the packets of roe. Slice them crosswise about ½ inch thick. Add freshly chopped parsley to the pepper-tomato salad. Place shredded lettuce on a serving platter or 2 to 4 individual plates. Place sliced roe on the lettuce. Garnish with quartered egg. Sprinkle all with flaky salt and drizzle with additional oil.

Another recipe with fish roe: Squid Stuffed with Hake Roe, Sanlucar Style

FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS 

The Culinary Legacy of Spain

FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS, The Culinary Legacy of Spain. Here's a fresh angle on the traditional cooking of Spain, with 120 recipes that trace their roots to Moorish Spain. See below for where to order. 

This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times. Dishes from this era include exotic spices such as saffron, the use of fruits and almonds with savory dishes, and honeyed sweets and pastries. The flavors of al-Andalus live on in modern Spanish cooking and are what makes Spain’s cuisine distinctive from the rest of Europe. (Hippocrene Books)    

 Order on IndiePubs (USA) 

Use PROMO CODE HIPPOCRENE40 for 40% off on all Hippocrene titles at IndiePubs online bookstore.

***

Order on amazon (USA)

Order on amazon.es  (Spain)

Order on amazon.co.uk (UK)

Order on amazon.com.au (Australia)

(If you order on Amazon, please give my book a review!)

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DO YOU DO BACALAO?

 

Salt cod (bacalao)

Bacalao (salt cod) must be part of the Spanish DNA. In medieval times, unless you lived less than a 24-hour mule ride from the coast, you probably never tasted fresh fish. Salt cod  and other salt fish were the only seafood available to you. 

"According to tax records in the city of Barcelona, 1,800,000 kippered sardines were sold in a single day, February 8, 1434, the first day of Lent." (That’s the introduction to the fish chapter in my newest cookbook, Flavors of al-Andalus, which also has lots of recipes for fresh fish!)

What’s amazing is that, even now, with fabulous fresh seafood everywhere in Spain, bacalao continues to be a favored ingredient. 

Nevertheless, salt cod is not to everyone’s taste. In the recipe for Salt Cod Dip in the cookbook, I suggest the alternative of using canned tuna. Here's how that worked out.

I made the Salt Cod Dip recipe using canned tuna in place of cod. Here it is served as a first course accompanied by marinated cauliflower and crispy garlic toasts.

Leftover tuna dip is spread on bread with cheese and pan-grilled with olive oil to make a very tasty tuna melt, 

Salt Cod Dip

Ajo Bacalao

The recipe that appears in FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS is made with salt cod. 

Cod is unknown in Mediterranean waters. But, thanks to seafaring Basques, who fished the cod banks off Newfoundland as early as the 9th century, cod in its salted, dried form has been ubiquitous in Spanish cooking from medieval times to the present. 

This recipe with cod, bread, and olive oil makes a garlicky, creamy dip or schmear that might remind you of brandade or Greek taromosalata. This version comes from the Axarquía region east of Málaga and is a specialty of Semana Santa, Holy Week, when salt cod dishes are traditional.

In bygone times, the dish was made in a lebrillo, a large clay bowl, or with a wooden mortar, the ingredients mashed together with a pestle. Nowadays, a food processor makes quick work of it. It’s a good recipe to make when you have scraps of salt cod left from cutting up a whole fish for another recipe. 

As prepared in present times, a big spoonful of pimentón is added to the dip, giving it a nice ruddy color. Pimentón would not have been available in Moorish times, so, if you like, include a mashed carrot or two to add color to the mix.

The resulting thick spread can be slathered on bread or toasts for a satisfying snack, spread on crisp crackers as a canapé or dipped with breadsticks. Serve it as a luncheon entrée with artichokes, quartered hard-boiled egg and lettuce. 

Unless you obtain cod that is already desalted, you will need to start preparations a day or two before making the dip, as the cod needs to soak in water to remove salt and soften the flesh. Small pieces need only 12 hours soaking. If you have a thick, loin cut of bacalao, it may need as long as 48 hours to soften and lose excess salt. Salt cod needs very little cooking on gentle heat. 

If salt cod is not your thing, you could make the recipe substituting canned tuna. Skip the steps for soaking and cooking the salt cod. Use a little water or stock to soak the bread.

8 ounces dry salt cod or 2 (5-ounce) cans tuna, drained

2 cloves garlic

1 or 2 cooked carrots (optional)

2 ½ cups diced day-old bread (5 ounces)

1 cup cod cooking liquid

Pinch of ground cloves

Freshly ground black pepper

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons lemon juice

Salt, to taste

Olives and hard-boiled eggs to garnish (optional) 

Bread, toast, breadsticks or crackers to serve

Wash the cod and cut it into 1-inch pieces, discarding any skin and bones. Place the cod in a bowl. Cover with cold water. Refrigerate, covered, 12 hours, changing the water twice. 

Drain and rinse the pieces of cod. Place them in a pan and cover with 2 cups of water. Bring the water to a simmer (bubbling gently) and cook 1 minute. Drain, saving the cod cooking liquid. When the cod is cool, flake it with the fingers. Reserve the cod and the cooking liquid.

Finely chop the garlic and carrot, if using, in a food processor. Add the bread and ½ cup of the reserved cod cooking liquid. Let it set 5 minutes to soften the bread. Process until the bread is a smooth paste, adding additional cooking liquid, as needed. Season with cloves and pepper. With the processor running, slowly add the oil. Process until the oil is completely absorbed and the mixture is very smooth. Add the lemon juice to make a smooth, thick cream. 

Add the flaked cod and pulse the mixture to combine the cod. The cod does not have to be completely pureed. Taste and add salt if necessary.  

Cover and refrigerate the cod until serving time or up to 3 days. Garnish with olives and sliced egg, if desired. Serve with bread, toasts, breadsticks or crackers.

More recipes with salt cod (bacalao):

Salt Cod with Cauliflower in Garlic Sauce (Ajada)

Cod Fritters with Molasses (Tortillitas con Miel de Caña)

Salt Cod in Garlic PilPil Sauce 

Salt Cod Catalan Style (a la Llauna)

Rice with Salt Cod and "Cobblestones" (Empedrado)(

Lenten Stew with Chickpeas, Salt Cod, and Chard

Salt Cod-Garlic Spread 

Andalusian Salt Cod with Tomato Sauce and Olives

FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS 

The Culinary Legacy of Spain

FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS, The Culinary Legacy of Spain. Here's a fresh angle on the traditional cooking of Spain, with 120 recipes that trace their roots to Moorish Spain. See below for where to order. 

This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times. Dishes from this era include exotic spices such as saffron, the use of fruits and almonds with savory dishes, and honeyed sweets and pastries. The flavors of al-Andalus live on in modern Spanish cooking and are what makes Spain’s cuisine distinctive from the rest of Europe. (Hippocrene Books)    

 Order on IndiePubs (USA) 

Use PROMO CODE HIPPOCRENE40 for 40% off on all Hippocrene titles at IndiePubs online bookstore.

***

Order on amazon (USA)

Order on amazon.es  (Spain)

Order on amazon.co.uk (UK)

Order on amazon.com.au (Australia)

(If you order on Amazon, please give my book a review!)

***

Order on ark.no (Norway)

EVERYONE’S FAVORITE SPANISH COOKIE

What is it about tortas de aceite? Everyone who tries these crispy cookies—or are they pastries?—is hooked. They are hand-made pastry discs very lightly flecked with aniseeds and sesame. Although they somewhat resemble "pie-crust cookies," these are made with olive oil and are leavened with a touch of yeast. 

In the US, you can order tortas de aceite from La Tienda, importers of Spanish products (2 packets of 6 cookies each for $19.00). Or you can make them yourself.  

Tortas de aceite are crispy pastry cookies with aniseed and sesame.

A COOKIE FOR EVERY MOOD

February, 2018

Tortas de aceite are the “little black dress” of cookies, because you can dress them up or down. Wear your pearls, sip cava and heap the crisp crackers with caviar. Or, get cozy in your jammies and spread them with peanut butter and jelly. Serve them for breakfast with coffee or tea, for dessert with cheese and fruit compotes, or, accompanied by a mellow muscatel wine, on a rainy afternoon with classical guitar music playing.

These tortas can be sweet or savory. Serve them with fruit, cheese, nuts and a mellow, medium-dry muscatel wine or sweet Sherry.

Tortas de aceite are round, olive oil flat breads/cookies/crackers. There are actually two versions with the same name, one a soft, sweet bun, and this one, a crisp, wafer-like cookie. The crispy ones have attained gourmet status, tortas de aceite Ines Rosales® from Sevilla. The “legítimas y acreditadas” tortas are slightly sweet and contain both sesame and aniseed. 

Tortas are studded with sesame and aniseed. This version has toasted almonds too.

Serve tortas alongside fruit compote (this is apple-raisin-cinnamon). Or heap the fruit right on the torta for a quickie "pie." Go ahead and add a dollop of ice cream. The tortas are equally good with springtime strawberries.

Goat cheese and crispy tortas, a perfect pairing.

Crispy Olive Oil Cookies/Crackers
Tortas de Aceite

Use bread flour or all-purpose flour for the dough. You will not need to flour the board for kneading this dough or for rolling out the tortas, as the oil keeps the dough from sticking. 

The cookies are not overly sweet, with only a coating of sugar on the top. Make them sweeter with a honey glaze, made by boiling 1/3 cup honey with 2 tablespoons water for 6 minutes, then brushing it on the tortas when they come out of the oven. For savory crackers, omit the sugar and top the rolled tortas with flaky salt.

The olive oil is “infused” with lemon zest, aniseed and sesame. Heat the oil on a low fire—don’t allow the seeds to fry. Discard the lemon zest. Let the oil cool slightly before adding the yeast to it. The water for dissolving the yeast should be very warm, not hot (105ºF/ 40ºC).

Makes 12 (4-inch) cookies.

Warm water (105ºF/ 40ºC), ¼  + ¼ cups
1 envelope active dry yeast (2 ¼ teaspoons)
1 teaspoon sugar
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
6-inch strip of lemon zest
1 tablespoon aniseed
2 tablespoons sesame seed
2 cups bread flour
½ teaspoon salt
¼ cup finely chopped toasted almonds
2 tablespoons sugar (optional)
Salt flakes (optional)

Place ¼ cup very warm water in a small bowl. Add the yeast and 1 teaspoon of sugar. Stir to combine. Allow the yeast to proof 10 minutes, until it bubbles.

Place the oil in a small pan with the lemon zest, aniseed and sesame seed. Heat on low heat for 4 minutes. Cool slightly. Skim out and discard the strip of lemon zest.

Place the warm oil and seeds in a bowl. Add ¼ cup of warm water and the yeast mixture.

Combine the flour, salt and almonds. Beat them into the oil-yeast mixture in the bowl. When the dough is too stiff to mix, turn it out on a board. Knead the dough until very smooth and stretchy, 5 minutes. Gather the dough into a ball.

Place the ball of dough in an oiled bowl, turning it to coat both sides. Cover with a damp cloth and place in a warm place to rise until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 450ºF/ 230ºC. Line two or more baking sheets with baking parchment.

Roll balls of dough out very thinly. No flour needed on the board, as oil keeps the dough from sticking.

Sprinkle with sugar.

Punch down the dough and gather it into a ball. Divide the dough into 12 golf ball-size balls (about 1 ¼ ounce each). Roll or pat the balls as thinly as possible into 4-inch (approx.) circles. Place them on baking sheets.

For sweet cookies, sprinkle the tops of the tortas with 2 tablespoons sugar, pressing it lightly into the dough. For savory crackers, omit sugar and sprinkle tops with salt flakes.

Bake the tortas (in two or three batches) until they are browned on the edges, about 8 minutes. Cool them on a rack.

Store the tortas in a tightly covered container. 

The recipe for tortas de aceite also appears in my newest cookbook, FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS, a collection of 120 recipes that have roots in Moorish Spain. (See below for where to order.)

***   ***   ***

These are another type of torta de aceite:

Olive Oil Breakfast Buns

Olive Oil Rolls with Pimentón 

Or, tortas de manteca, Crispy Lard Cookies

FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS 

The Culinary Legacy of Spain

FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS, The Culinary Legacy of Spain. Here's a fresh angle on the traditional cooking of Spain, with 120 recipes that trace their roots to Moorish Spain. See below for where to order. 

This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times. Dishes from this era include exotic spices such as saffron, the use of fruits and almonds with savory dishes, and honeyed sweets and pastries. The flavors of al-Andalus live on in modern Spanish cooking and are what makes Spain’s cuisine distinctive from the rest of Europe. (Hippocrene Books)    

 Order on IndiePubs (USA) 

Use PROMO CODE HIPPOCRENE40 for 40% off on all Hippocrene titles at IndiePubs online bookstore.

***

Order on amazon (USA)

Order on amazon.es  (Spain)

Order on amazon.co.uk (UK)

Order on amazon.com.au (Australia)

(If you order on Amazon, please give my book a review!)

***

Order on ark.no (Norway)