PLANNING FOR HOLIDAY MEALS

 

Roast chicken with fruit stuffing, a festive dish for a holiday meal.

Rosh Hashana, the Jewish New Year, begins at sundown on Monday, September 22—coincidentally the first day of autumn. Those of you who observe the holiday have probably long since planned a special menu and, likely, have even begun the cooking. This is the first of fall/winter holidays, from Rosh Hashana to All Saints/All Souls (Halloween), Thanksgiving to Christmas, Hanukkah to New Year’s, with many occasions to gather friends and family for festive dining.

To help you plan holiday meals, have a look at my new cookbook, Flavors of al-Andalus, The Culinary Legacy of Spain. A section of Menu Suggestions at the back of the book shows you how to use the recipes in your life. 

Here are the menu ideas for an Autumn/Winter Holiday Meal--appetizers, starters, mains, desserts, cookies, and confections. Recipes for all of the dishes listed can be found in Flavors of al-Andalus. (The recipe for Roast Chicken with Fruit Stuffing follows.)

Chicken and Liver Pâté (Morteruelo) accompanied with toasts

Winter Gazpacho with Oranges (Gazpacho de Invierno)

Savory Almond Soup (Sopa de Almendras)

Hake in Saffron Sauce (Merluza al Azafrán)

Roast Chicken with Fruit Stuffing (Pollo Relleno con Frutas) 

Cauliflower (or cardoons) in Almond Sauce (Coliflor en Salsa de Almendras)

Pumpkin Pudding (Arnadí)

Crumbly Olive Oil Cookies (Mantecados de Aceite)

Fig Pâté (Pan de Higos)

Honey-Almond Logs (Alfajores)

The roast chicken is a gorgeous dish for any holiday, but it is especially appropriate for Rosh Hashana because its roots are in Spain’s Sephardic Jewish cooking.

Quite a few of the recipes in Flavors of al-Andalus have come down to us from the community of Sephardic Jews. Sepharad was the name that the Jews gave to the Iberian peninsula, where, for more than 13 centuries, Jews lived alongside Romans, Visigoths, Muslims and Christians in communities throughout the country. The Jews were expelled from Spain in 1492 by the same Catholic monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella, who, having defeated the last of the Moors in the kingdom of Granada, funded Columbus’s scheme to sail west to look for the Spice Islands.

(Note: The recipes in Flavors of al-Andalus with their roots in Islamic Spain are not kosher nor halal. However, they are easily adapted to respect those dietary laws. For instance, Jews can substitute chicken in recipes for rabbit; Muslims can substitute fruit juice for wine. None of the recipes calls for pork, ham or chorizo.)

Roast Chicken with Fruit Stuffing

Pollo Relleno con Frutas

Chicken stuffing is a mixture of dried fruits, apples, and breadcrumbs with Sherry.

(Excerpted from Flavors of al-Andalus, The Culinary Legacy of Spain)

A recipe for “a Jewish dish of chicken with stuffing” appears in an anonymous Arabic manuscript from the 13th century. It calls for the chicken liver and gizzard to be ground up with almonds, pine nuts, fennel, cilantro, spices and beaten eggs. Once the chicken is done and the stuffing set, the recipe instructs the cook to “ladle it out and put the stuffing around it, garnish with cut rue and fennel, eyes of mint, and toasted almonds, and present it, God willing.”

Fast-forward to the 21st century, and we find a recipe from Catalonia (the eastern Mediterranean region where Barcelona is located) for roast, stuffed chicken or turkey that is prepared for the Christmas feast. It is stuffed with pork sausage meat, nuts and dried fruits. The origin of the recipe may well be medieval Jewish, when it would have been made with a forcemeat of minced chicken or veal instead of pork. It is a very festive dish.

A medium-dry Sherry such as amontillado or oloroso seco flavors the stuffing and the pan juices. If not available, use any white wine. Use any combination of dried fruits. Truffles are an optional, luxurious, addition to the stuffing mixture. Small onions, carrots, and turnips can be added to the roasting pan, if desired.

The stuffing can also be used for small birds such as squab, Cornish game hens or for turkey (although turkey is not included in recipes in Flavors of al-Andalus because it is a fowl from the New World, unknown in Moorish Spain).

Serves 8.

1 roasting chicken or capon (5 to 6 pounds)

1 teaspoon salt + more for sprinkling

Freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon + ½ cup medium-dry Sherry

1 cup chopped dried fruits (raisins, apricots, prunes, figs)

¼ cup hot water

8 ounces ground chicken or veal

3 tablespoons olive oil

¼ cup pine nuts

½ cup chopped onions

1 cup fresh breadcrumbs

1 cup diced apple

¼ teaspoon cinnamon

Pinch of cloves

Pinch freshly grated nutmeg

3 tablespoons chopped parsley

Pinch dried thyme

Truffles, diced (optional)

1 tablespoon capers 

Small onions, carrots, turnips (optional)

½ to 1 cup chicken stock

Sprinkle the chicken inside and out with salt and pepper. Rub the cavity with 1 tablespoon of the Sherry. Allow the chicken to come to room temperature.

Preheat the oven to 450ºF.

Soak the dried fruits in hot water for 10 minutes to soften them. 

Combine the ground chicken in a large bowl with the dried fruits and their soaking water. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a small skillet and toast the pine nuts until golden. Skim them out and add to the bowl with the ground chicken. Add the onion to the skillet and sauté until softened, 3 minutes. Add the onion to the bowl along with the breadcrumbs, apple, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, parsley, thyme, truffles if using, capers, 1 teaspoon salt, and pepper. Combine well.

Stuff the chicken with the mixture. Skewer the neck and body openings closed and truss the chicken with kitchen twine. Place in a heavy roasting pan or in a large ovenproof skillet. Drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. (Add vegetables to the roasting pan, if desired.)

Place the pan in the oven and turn the oven temperature down to 350ºF. Roast the chicken for 30 minutes. Add the remaining ½ cup Sherry and ½ cup stock to the pan. Spoon some of the juices over the chicken. Roast for 30 minutes more, basting occasionally. Add up to ½ cup additional stock if the pan looks dry. Roast 1 hour more or until internal temperature of the stuffing reaches 160ºF when tested with an instant-read thermometer.

Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and allow to rest 20 minutes. Carve the chicken and scoop the stuffing into a serving bowl. Skim the fat from the remaining pan juices. Spoon some of the juices over the chicken and serve the rest in a bowl.

***   ***   ***

More recipes for Rosh Hashana:

Stuffed Chickens Roasted in a Clay Pot (from Sabores de Sefarad by Javier Zafra).

Chicken Braised in Spiced Grape Juice

Chicken Marbella (my version)

Black-Eyed Peas for the New Year

Apple Cake with Honey-Wine Syrup

***   ***   ***

***Anyada buena, dulce i alegre.*** Feliz año nuevo.***Happy New Year.***

***   ***   ***

FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS 

The Culinary Legacy of Spain

has menus and recipes for Tapas Party, Brunch, Summer Barbecue, Family Dinners (one vegetarian), Sunday Lunch, Dinner Party, Spring Holiday Meal, and Autumn/Winter Holiday Meal. From your favorite bookseller or click below to order. 

This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times. Dishes from this era include exotic spices such as saffron, the use of fruits and almonds with savory dishes, and honeyed sweets and pastries. The flavors of al-Andalus live on in modern Spanish cooking and are what makes Spain’s cuisine distinctive from the rest of Europe. (Hippocrene Books)    

 Order on IndiePubs

Use PROMO CODE HIPPOCRENE40 for 40% off on all Hippocrene titles at IndiePubs online bookstore.

***

Order on amazon

FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS by Janet Mendel is the #1 New Release in Spanish Cooking on Amazon!

Order on amazon.es

***   ***   ***

FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS PUBLISHES THIS WEEK!

 

  Pictured are albóndigas, meatballs with almond-saffron sauce, one of the tapas from Flavors of al-Andalus.

Have a look at “Tapas Party with the Flavors of al-Andalus,” a short video showing a few of the recipes from my new cookbook, FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS, THE CULINARY LEGACY OF SPAIN (Hippocrene Books). The book will be officially released August 12.

Tapas party with the flavors of al-Andalus       (Video by Daniel Searl)

These are tasty dishes from the traditional Spanish kitchen, some of them—like that gorgeous almond-saffron sauce with the meatballs—with a touch of the exotic. This is food that can trace its roots to al-Andalus, Moorish Spain. 

The tapas party pictured in the video illustrates a really useful section of the book, Suggested Menus. These include recipes for a Tapas Party, for Brunch, a Summer Barbecue, several Family Dinners (including one vegetarian), Sunday Lunch, a Dinner Party, and both spring and fall/winter Holiday Meals. Ideas to help you enjoy the wide selection of foods with al-Andalus flavor at your own table.

Flavors of al-Andalus, The Culinary Legacy of Spain will be released this week (August 12). When you receive your copy (see below for where to order), if you would like to tell me what you think of the book or show me a photo of you cooking from Flavors of al-Andalus, leave me a comment on the blog or tag me on Facebook (@Janet Mendel) or on Instagram (@mykitcheninspain). 

If you would like to feature Flavors of al-Andalus on your blog, Substack, Instagram page, or newspaper-magazine column, contact pgress@hippocrenebooks.com  to receive a digital review copy.

Meatballs in Almond Sauce

Albóndigas en Salsa de Almendras

Here’s the recipe from Flavors of al-Andalus for those meatballs. Most of the recipes in the book have headnotes that tell a little about their background as well as cooking and serving suggestions 

The meatballs served in Spanish tapas bars can trace their ancestry straight back to 13th century al-Andalus. Meatballs then were not so different from those of today. Cinnamon was added then, whereas today home cooks use freshly grated nutmeg. They were sauced with a tangy mixture that included vinegar—today we would use tomatoes. Almonds were ground up in the sauce or else sprinkled on top of the finished dish much like the current version. 

Meatballs now are usually made with a combination of ground veal and pork but, as Muslims and Jews did not consume pork, this recipe instead calls for lamb, beef, chicken or a combination. 

It’s customary to flour and brown the meatballs before finishing them in the sauce. But if you prefer, you can skip the flour and brown the meatballs in a hot (400ºF) oven or simply poach them in simmering water. If cooking for a crowd, the recipes for the sauce and meatballs can easily be doubled. They can be made in advance, stored separately in the refrigerator, then heated together before serving. 

For those who do not combine meat and milk, use unsweetened almond milk or stock to soak the bread. Roll the meatballs as large or small as you like. 

Makes about 30 (1 ¼ inch-) meatballs, serving 6 

For the almond sauce:

3 tablespoons olive oil

1/3 cup blanched and skinned almonds

3 cloves garlic, peeled

1 slice bread, crusts removed

½ teaspoon saffron

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Pinch ground cloves

½ cup white wine

1 ½ cups chicken stock

½ teaspoon salt

Heat the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the almonds, garlics, and bread and fry until golden about 1 minutes. Set aside a few of the almonds to garnish the finished dish. Skim out the rest of the almonds, garlics, and bread.  Leave the oil in the skillet.

Crush the saffron in a mortar or small bowl. Add the pepper, cloves, and ¼ cup hot water. Let the saffron infuse for 10 minutes. 

Place the fried almonds, garlic, and bread in a blender. Add the wine and spices in hot water. Blend the mixture to make a smooth paste. Pour the almond mixture into the oil in the skillet. Stir in the stock and salt. Simmer the sauce over medium-low heat, stirring, until it is smooth and thickened, about 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and cover to keep warm.

For the meatballs:

2 slices stale bread or 1/3 cup fine dry bread crumbs

1/3 cup milk 

1 large egg

1 tablespoon olive oil + more for frying

1 clove minced garlic

1/8 teaspoon grated nutmeg

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Pinch ground coriander

2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley + additional for garnish

1 teaspoon salt

1 ¼ pounds ground lamb, beef, and/or chicken

Flour for dredging 

Place the bread in a bowl and add the milk. Allow to soak 5 minutes.

In a large bowl, beat the egg with the oil. Add the softened bread and mash it together with the egg. Add the garlic, nutmeg, pepper, coriander, parsley, and salt. Add the meat. Use a wooden paddle, fork, or hands to mix the meat with the bread and egg. 

Spread a shallow pan with flour. Shape the meat into 1¼-inch balls. If the meat seems sticky, coat hands lightly with oil. Drop the meatballs as they are made into the flour. When all the balls are shaped, shake the pan to roll the meatballs in the flour, coating them on all sides.

Heat enough oil to cover the bottom of a skillet. Working in batches so as not to crowd the pan, add the meatballs and dry until they are browned on all sides, about 10 minutes, adding additional oil as needed. The meatballs do not need to thoroughly cook as they will finish cooking in the sauce. Remove them as they are browned. 

Reheat the almond sauce and add the browned meatballs. Cook until they are hot and cooked through, about 10 minutes. Serve garnished with chopped parsley.

***   ***   ***

FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS, The Culinary Legacy of Spain, published by Hippocrene Books, is available from your favorite bookseller. For more about what’s in the book, see Meatballs with Backstory. Read advance reviews at Advance Praise for Flavors of al-Andalus. 

This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times. Dishes from this era include exotic spices such as saffron, the use of fruits and almonds with savory dishes, and honeyed sweets and pastries. The flavors of al-Andalus live on in modern Spanish cooking and are what makes Spain’s cuisine distinctive from the rest of Europe. (Hippocrene Books)

$39.95 hardcover.

 Order on IndiePubs

***

Order on amazon

Amazon:   -6% $37.44  List Price: $39.95

Order on amazon.es

Amazon.es €37.12

Amazon España ships September 25