Showing posts with label Galicia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Galicia. Show all posts

Saturday, October 26, 2024

THE TORTILLA: VARIATIONS ON A THEME

 
A classic potato tortilla with the addition of wakame seaweed.

Do you ever come across a recipe on Instagram that you’ve just got to try? Me, rarely. But a post for potato tortilla with wakame seaweed from Porto-Muiños (#portomuinos), Galician harvesters and distributors of algae products, grabbed me. An interesting variation on a classic and I just happened to have all the ingredients to hand.


I can buy several types of algae at my local market at the “health food” stall. Wakame is my favorite. It tastes like a sea breeze smells and is nicely chewy. I use wakame in salad with sesame to accompany sushi, poke and tuna tataki. But, seaweed with potatoes cooked in olive oil? Yes! Wakame adds an interesting flavor as well as texture.  

Shards of dry wakame.
Wakame comes layered in stiff sheets that have been pressed and dried.  After 10 minutes of soaking, it turns from black to dark green and softens to a chewy consistency. Once rehydrated it can be used raw or cooked.

I accompanied the seaweed tortilla with a mushroom sauté al ajillo which also was a variation on a traditional recipe. Instead of the usual champiñones I used white shimeji mushrooms, a product that recently turned up at my local grocery store. With some cherry tomatoes the tortilla and mushrooms made a delightful vegetarian lunch. 

Tortilla is perfect for a vegetarian lunch.

Variation on a theme: champiñones al ajillo made with shimeji mushrooms.



Potato Tortilla with Seaweed
Tortilla de Patatas con Alga

The Porto-Muiños recipe calls for patatas gallegas, Galician potatoes. Those with the PDO Indicación Xeográfica Protexida Pataca de Galicia—protected geographic indication, potato of Galicia, are the Kennebec variety. Not always available where I live, I used ordinary russet-type potatoes for this tortilla.

Potatoes for tortilla are best cooked slowly—not fried—in lots of olive oil. The potatoes absorb very little of the oil, which can be strained and used again. I like onions in tortilla, although the recipe from Porto-Muiños didn’t include them. Your choice.  

½ ounce dry wakame 
1 pound potatoes
½ cup olive oil
Salt
3 tablespoons chopped scallions (optional)
6 eggs
Freshly ground black pepper
Wakame after soaking.

Break the wakame into several pieces. Place them in a bowl and cover with warm water. Soak 5 minutes. With the fingers, prise apart the layers of wakame and soak 5 minutes more. Drain. Discard any clumps that have not softened. Cut any large pieces into shreds. (Makes approximately 1 cup of ready-to-serve seaweed.) 
Cook eggs and potatoes to set.

Peel the potatoes and slice them thinly. Heat the oil in a large skillet. Add the potatoes, lower heat and cook the potatoes, turning them frequently, without letting them brown. Sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt. When potatoes are almost tender, about 15 minutes, add the scallions, if using. Cook another minute. Remove the potatoes and onions with a skimmer. Reserve the oil.

Beat the eggs in a bowl with 1 teaspoon of salt and pepper. Add the wakame and potatoes. Let the mixture stand 10 minutes.

Add 1 tablespoon of the reserved oil to a small (8-inch) no-stick skillet. When hot, pour in the egg-potato-wakame mixture. Stir it gently for 30 seconds, then allow to set on the bottom, 3-4 minutes. Adjust heat so that it doesn’t brown or scorch. 

Have ready a flat plate or pan lid. Place it on top of the skillet and hold it tightly while reversing the skillet so that the tortilla turns out onto the plate. Carefully slide it back into the skillet to cook on the reverse side, about 2 minutes. Lift the edge of the tortilla and slide it onto a serving dish.

Serve the tortilla hot or room temperature. 



Shimeji Mushroom Sauté
Setas Shimeji al Ajillo

White shimeji mushrooms, also called beech mushrooms, are a cultivated version of a wild fungi. They somewhat resemble enokitake mushrooms—shell-like caps with slender stems. Sauté them quickly for a slightly crunchy finish or add them to stews and soups to cook to chewiness. 

Chopped ham is often added to mushrooms al ajillo. If you’re cooking a vegetarian meal, just omit it. 

Slice root-end off shimeji mushrooms.

Serves 2-4.

1 bunch (about 6 ounces) shimeji mushrooms
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, sliced
Red pepper flakes
½ ounce diced serrano ham (optional)
Salt
2 tablespoons dry Sherry
2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Fry with garlic.



Wash the whole bunch of mushrooms in a bowl of water. Drain. Cut off and discard the clump of root ends. Separate the mushrooms. Heat the oil in a skillet. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and fry them 30 seconds. Add the mushrooms and sauté 1 to 2 minutes. Add the ham, if using, and Sherry. Cook 1 to 2 minutes until the alcohol is cooked off. Serve the mushrooms hot garnished with parsley.

Shimeji mushrooms sautéed with garlic, finished with Sherry.


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More recipes with seaweed:








More about Galician potatoes here.

More tortilla recipes:









Saturday, February 20, 2021

CARNAVAL! DOUBLE-MASKING AND CRISPY EARS

 
A masque and a mask for Carnaval.

They closed down the party. No Carnaval this year, due to the ongoing pandemic. Instead of fabulous masks and feathered headdresses, rollicking music and all-night revelry, we have double-masking and curfews.


Carnaval is the pre-Lenten festival, also known as Mardi Gras (theoretically the Tuesday before Lent), that goes on for a couple of weeks and is celebrated throughout Spain. This year it will be virtual. 

I feel sorry for the many makeup artists, costume designers and seamstresses who are out of work this year. (The spangled costume and flamboyant headdress of a Canary Island carnival queen can weigh more than 400 kilos/880 pounds and strut some 7000 feathers. They need rollers so that the wearer can move.)

But, the confectioners and bakers are still doing good business, as folks line up to buy typical Carnaval sweets and pastries. With home quarantine, probably many are even making some of the traditional goodies at home.

A typical Carnaval treat--crispy fried "ears."


In Galicia (northwestern Spain), a typical Carnaval pastry is orejas, or orellas de Entroido in Galician, “ears” for Carnaval. The ears are pieces of dough fried crisp and sprinkled with sugar. They are a delight with coffee, tea, hot chocolate or a copita of fiery aguardiente de orujo, clear grape brandy.

In “green” Galicia, where dairy cattle thrive, butter is more prevalent than in Mediterranean Spain. Butter is used for making the simple dough. Rendered pork fat (lard) or “vegetable” oil, usually sunflower oil, are also used. In Castilla-La Mancha, similar fried pastries, called hojuelas, are made with only olive oil. As are a similar Sephardic Jewish treat called orejas de Hamán, Haman’s ears, traditional for the holiday of Purim (which this year is from the evening of February 25 until the following evening.)

These ears are easy to make—cut free-form “ears” from dough rolled out very thinly. Don’t flour the work surface; oil it lightly.

 If you want to get artistic, after placing a piece of dough in the frying oil, use two forks to push edges together, crimping the dough into the form of an ear. I recommend olive oil for frying the pastries, although any vegetable oil can be used. You don’t need deep oil for frying. A half-inch of oil in the frying pan is sufficient. Add additional oil as needed. Moderate the heat so the dough doesn’t brown too quickly. 

After frying, the ears are sprinkled with cinnamon sugar and a little powdered sugar.






Crispy “Ears” for Carnival
Orejas de Carnaval

Makes 25 (4 X 3-inch) fried ears.

1/3 cup melted butter, lard or vegetable oil
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon anise liqueur, brandy or sweet Sherry
¼ cup orange juice, milk or water
Grated zest of 1 lemon or orange
2 cups + 2 tablespoons flour
¼ teaspoon salt
Oil for work surface and for frying
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
Honey (optional) 
Confectioner’s sugar (optional)

In a small bowl combine the butter, lard or oil, beaten egg, liqueur, orange juice or other liquid and grated zest.


Place the flour in a mixing bowl and stir in the salt. Make a well in the center and pour in the liquid ingredients. Use a wooden spoon or fork to mix until the dough forms a soft ball. Knead the dough briefly, either in the bowl or on a work surface. Form into a smooth ball and cover with a clean cloth or plastic wrap. Let the dough stand at room temperature for 1 hour.

Place olive oil in a skillet to a depth of ½ inch. Place on moderate heat.



Before rolling out the dough, brush the work surface and rolling pin lightly with oil




Cut free-form ear shapes.


You need about 1/2 inch of oil for frying the ears.


Drain fried pastries on paper towels, then sprinkle with cinnamon sugar. Olive oil is best for frying.


Lightly oil the work surface and the rolling pin. Divide the dough into 8 equal balls. Roll out one ball as thinly as possible. Use a sharp knife to cut the dough into “ears,”—triangles, rhomboids, trapezoids or free-form. Transfer the cut shapes to the hot oil. Fry them until golden on both sides, 2-3 minutes. Remove the fried dough with a skimmer and drain on paper towels. Continue rolling, cutting and frying the remaining dough.

Combine the granulated sugar and cinnamon. Sprinkle the fried ears generously with the cinnamon sugar. If desired, sprinkle with confectioner’s sugar as well. (Alternatively to the cinnamon sugar, boil a few tablespoons of honey with a little water for 1 minute. Brush the honey syrup over the ears.)



More Carnaval goodies:





Saturday, November 3, 2018

A POTATO FOR ALL REASONS

A potato is just a potato, no? That’s what I thought for years, when the only sort of potato I could find was the locally grown “Idaho” variety. It’s terrific for making Spanish potato tortilla and pretty good for patatas fritas (fries). It makes a flaky baked potato. But for making potato salads, it is a disaster, as this high-starch variety tends to disintegrate in boiling. Same issue when cooked in the olla, or stew pot. 


Only in the past few years have a selection of potato types begun appearing in markets. In the big hypermercados they are labelled, para freir (for frying), para asar (for roasting), para cocido (for boiling), para guarnación (small ones, for garnishing). Plus waxy red ones and—new!—purple potatoes.

Potatoes from Galicia.

Recently, I saw sacks of potatoes with Indicación Xeográfica Protexida Pataca de Galicia—protected geographic indication, potato of Galicia (PDO). Knowing Galicia (northwest Spain) is famed for its potatoes, I grabbed a bag.

First, I cut them up and boiled them to make mashed potatoes. These potatoes did not disintegrate! They mashed smoothly, but seemed to require greater quantities of olive oil and milk than I would use with the everyday potatoes. I looked at the labels on the sack again and saw that the PDO potatoes were the Kennebec variety, an all-purpose potato developed in the U.S., especially favored by producers of potato chips (crisps to the Brits).

To honor the Galician origin, I searched for a typical Galician potato recipe and found this nice dish of potatoes stewed with wine and mussels. Tomorrow I'll test them as baked potatoes alongside a Sunday roast chicken. Next week, it's patatas fritas. Galicia's potato for all occasions.




Chunks of potatoes cook with wine, chorizo and mussels for a typical Galician dish.









Crisp Albariño white wine from Galicia is the perfect accompaniment to potatoes with mussels.






Potatoes with Mussels
Patatas con Mejillones (Patacas con Mexillóns)

Some cooks recommend breaking the potatoes into cachos, or pieces, rather than cutting them with a knife. This is because the rough, broken surface supposedly releases more potato starch that helps to thicken the cooking liquid. 

Break, not cut, pieces.

To prepare the potatoes in this manner, cut them lengthwise in half or, if large, into quarters. Pick up one piece and, with a knife, start to cut a ½-inch slice. But don’t cut all the way through; break off the piece of potato with your fingers. Turn the potato quarter, make another incision and snap off the piece.

Chorizo in this recipe acts as a flavoring agent. Use cooking chorizo rather than dry-cured chorizo. If you choose not to use it, use an extra tablespoon of olive oil and stir in a heaping teaspoon of pimentón (paprika, smoked or unsmoked). 

If possible, use Padrón peppers in this dish. Padrón peppers from Galicia are bittersweet, with an occasional "hot" one. If not available, use any green or red pepper, cut in strips.


Chorizo adds flavour to the potatoes and mussels.

Serves 4.

2 pounds mussels
2 pounds potatoes
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup finely chopped onion
3 cloves garlic, chopped
½ cup green pepper, cut in thin strips
1 (3 ½-ounce) chorizo, sliced (optional)
½ cup white wine
1 cup water
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 bay leaf
Pimentón and chopped parsley to garnish


Scrape the mussels and remove beards. Wash them in several changes of water.


Peel the potatoes and cut/break them into slices. Cover with water while prepping other ingredients.

Heat oil in a cazuela or deep skillet with a lid. Sauté the onion slowly until softened, 5 minutes. Add the garlic, green pepper and sliced chorizo. Fry, turning the chorizo to brown both sides. 

Drain the potatoes well and add them to the pan. Stir them with a wooden paddle to combine with the other ingredients. Pour over the wine and cook off the alcohol, 2 minutes. Add water to partially cover the potatoes, salt, pepper and bay leaf. Bring the liquid to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer and cook, covered, until potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Use a wooden paddle to turn the potatoes occasionally while cooking. Add additional water if needed, so that potatoes always have a little liquid and don’t scorch on the bottom.

Place the mussels on top of the potatoes. Cover the pan and continue cooking until most of the mussels have opened, 6-8 minutes. Discard any mussels that do not open.

Allow the potatoes and mussels to rest, covered, 5 minutes before serving. Garnish with a sprinkling of pimentón (smoked or unsmoked) and chopped parsley.


These peppers are tipo Padrón, not the authentic ones. If possible, use Padrón peppers with the potatoes and mussels.

All about potatoes here.
More recipes for potatoes;



Sunday, August 26, 2018

SARDINE FEST ON MY PATIO

In Galicia (northwest Spain), a sardiñada is an outdoor party with heaps of grilled fresh sardines served with cachelos, potatoes boiled in their skins, and pan de millo, a kind of cornbread. (n the Galician language, a sardine is a sardiña. sardina in castellano Spanish). To try out my new gas grill, I staged a mini-sardiñada on my patio.


The roasted sardines, dripping with fat and juices, are heaped on slabs of Galician bread, a yeasted bread made with both wheat flour and corn meal. I made a traditional bread, but instead of baking it, I turned the dough into a flatbread and cooked it on the grill. I added a garlic-parsley oil to dribble on the bread, potatoes and sardines. The only thing missing at my sardiñada were the Padrón peppers!

Fresh sardines, roasted on the grill, with cornbread, potatoes and parsley oil.

Serve these with a roll of paper towels! Pick up a sardine with your fingers, break off the head, pinch out the innards (easy once cooked) and eat the flesh right off the bone.

Use slices of grilled cornbread to soak up the sardine's juices.

Grilled Sardines
Sardinas Asadas a la Parilla

Sardines for the grill don't need to be gutted. Sprinkle with coarse salt and they're ready to be cooked.

Sardines stay juicier if grilled whole, so don’t remove scales nor gut the sardines before grilling. A hinged grill makes flipping the small fish easier. If not available, try wrapping the sardines in grape leaves. Grill them until skin begins to turn brown and crackly. I overcooked my first batch, because they didn't brown properly. I needed to close the grill cover to keep the temperature hot enough to grill the fish. 

Serve the sardines accompanied by the grilled flatbread (recipe follows) or slices of baguette that have been grilled.

6-12 sardines per person
Coarse salt
Sliced, grilled bread, to serve


Rinse the sardines in water. Drain them well. Put them in a shallow bowl and sprinkle generously with coarse salt.

A hinged grill makes turning the sardines easy.

Grilling with a view. I am trying out a new gas grill on my patio.

Skin gets crackly-brown with grilling.

Preheat grill. Arrange sardines on a hinged grill. Grill until skins begin to turn brown and crisp. Turn the rack of sardines and grill reverse side. Serve accompanied by slices of grilled bread.

Cachelos, potatoes boiled in their skins, are a typical Galician side. Here they are served with pungent garlic-parsley olive oil aliño, or dressing.

Garlic-Parsley Oil Dressing
Aliño de Aceite con Perejil y Ajo

Drizzle this on the cachelos (potatoes boiled in their skins) and the sliced cornbread.

1 cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
2-3 cloves garlic
½ teaspoon grated lemon zest
Red pepper flakes (optional)
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon salt


Place the parsley and garlic in a blender or mini-processor and chop finely. Add remaining ingredients and blend until smooth.

Grilled Cornbread
Pan de Millo a la Parilla

A flatbread of mixed wheat flour and cornmeal bakes on the grill.

Millo is the Galician word for maíz, or corn. This Galician bread can be made with half cornmeal and half wheat flour. Sometimes a little rye flour is added too. If baking it as bread, shape the dough into a 12-inch round loaf. Let the loaf rise again before baking. For the grill, the dough is rolled out about ¾ inch thick to make a flatbread.

1 cup warm water
¼ teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons active dry yeast
2 ½ cups flour (preferably bread flour) + additional for flouring the board
1 cup yellow corn meal
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon olive oil + more to brush the dough


Place the warm water in a small bowl. Add the sugar and yeast. Allow to stand 5 minutes, until yeast is bubbly.

Combine the flour, corn meal and salt in a bowl. Make a well in the center. Add the oil and the yeast water. Use a wooden spoon to mix the dry ingredients into the liquid. Once combined, turn out onto a lightly floured board and knead the dough until smooth and stretchy, 5 minutes.

Gather the dough into a ball. Place in a clean oiled bowl. Cover with a damp cloth and put in a warm place to rise, approximately 2 hours. 

Brush dough with oil on both sides.

Punch the dough down. Turn out onto lightly floured board and roll it out into a circle or rectangle, approximately ¾ inch thick. Brush the top with oil. Place the dough, oiled side down, on a baking sheet or bread peel.

Heat the grill on maximum. Slide the bread onto the grill and close the cover. Immediately turn off the heat beneath the bread. (If grilling over coals, push coals to the edges before placing dough on the grill.) Bake the bread 5 minutes.


Flip the bread and close the cover of the grill.
Turn the dough. Either flip it on the grill or slide it onto the baking sheet, turn it over and slide back onto the grill. Cover the grill and bake until bread is done, 10-15 minutes more.

Allow the bread to cool before slicing. 

Fin.

More recipes for fresh sardines:

Missing from my sardine fest--Galician Padrón peppers. See more about these delectable peppers here.


Friday, April 14, 2017

THE BACALAO TOUR

As I was putting pieces of bacalao to soak, in preparation for my annual Holy Week visitation to salt cod, I realized that my Good Friday postings have amounted to a cod fish aficionado’s tour of Spain.


So far, the tour has touched in Catalonia, with bacalao a la llauna, baked in a wine sauce and served with tiny mongete beans; Andalusia, with cod fritters served with a drizzle of molasses; chickpeas with spinach and cod dumplings from Castilla-La Mancha; creamy cod brandada from Castilla y León, and the renowned bacalao al pil pil from the Basque Country. (Links to those recipes are at the end of this post.)

Cod, potatoes and cauliflower with tangy red ajada sauce. Garden peas add a springtime touch.

This year I’ve headed to Galicia, the far northwest corner of Spain, to sample a popular cod recipe that is ever-so-easy. Potatoes, cauliflower and cod are simmered in water, then served with a tangy ajada sauce made with  garlic, pimentón and vinegar. It’s a dish also served on Christmas Eve, so for the spring holiday, I’ve added fresh green sugar snap peas from the garden. Serve it with a crisp Albariño white wine from Galicia’s Rias Baixas.

Where to next year? I have yet to visit the bacalao dishes of Valencia, of Extremadura, or of Cantabria. After which, I can begin again, as every region of Spain has a dozen or more recipes for this season.

Crisp Albariño is the wine to serve with the Galician cod dish.



Spoon some sauce over cod and vegetables, serve the rest on the side.


Salt Cod with Cauliflower, Potatoes and Garlic Sauce
Bacalao con Coliflor y Patatas con Ajada

Traditionally, the potatoes, cauliflower and cod are all cooked in one pot of water. I’ve chosen to steam the cod separately, which gives it a nice, fluffy texture. If you prefer to cook the cod in the water, add it at the very end, letting it barely simmer for 5 minutes. Overcooking toughens the cod.

Skinless and nearly boneless pieces are cut from center of the cod. Tail is added to flavor the vegetables.

I used skinless, almost boneless pieces of lomo, center-cut “loin,” each weighing 3 to 4 ounces. They needed about 36 hours soaking time. Thicker cuts of cod need longer soaking. Change the water every 6 to 8 hours. I used a skin-on tail-end of cod to cook with the potatoes and cauliflower, adding flavor to the vegetables. (Picked off the bones, the flesh is great for croquettes or patties.)

The Galicians have dozens of varieties of potatoes. I find that waxy-red boiling potatoes are best for this dish, as they won’t disintegrate when cooked.

Traditionally the ajada sauce is made with ordinary unsmoked pimentón (paprika). You can add some smoked pimentón as well.

Start this recipe 2 or 3 days before serving in order to allow time for the cod to soak.

Serves 4.

8 (3-ounce) pieces center-cut salt cod plus another piece of cod to cook with the potatoes
8 cups water
1 teaspoon salt
Sprig of parsley
4 medium red potatoes (1 pound), peeled and cut in half
1 egg
½ onion
1 pound cauliflower, cut into sections
1 cup sugar snap peas (optional) or parsley
4 cloves garlic
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons pimentón (paprika)
½ teaspoon smoked pimentón
Pinch of hot pimentón or cayenne (optional)
1 tablespoon vinegar
2 tablespoons hot water
Salt, if necessary

Wash the pieces of salt cod to remove surface salt. Place them in a glass container and cover with cold water. Cover the container and refrigerate. Soak the cod for 36 hours, changing the water 6 times during the soaking period. Drain well and set aside.

Bring 8 cups water to a boil with 1 teaspoon salt and parsley. Add the potatoes, egg and onion. Cook until potatoes are almost tender, 10 minutes. Remove the egg and plunge it in cold water.

Add the cauliflower and extra piece of cod to the potatoes. Bring again to a boil, reduce heat and cook until cauliflower is just tender, about 5 minutes. Do not overcook. Cook the peas, if using, in the same pot for 1 minute.

Drain the potatoes and cauliflower and keep them warm.

Steaming cod over boiling water keeps it tender, prevents it from disintegrating in cooking.

Meanwhile, place a steaming rack in a pan with at least 1 inch of water. Bring the water to a boil. Place the pieces of salt cod on the rack, cover and reduce heat so the water bubbles gently. Steam the fish until it flakes easily, about 8 minutes.

Ajada sauce is olive oil, garlic and three kinds of pimentón.

Meanwhile, slice the garlic crosswise or chop coarsely. Heat the oil in a small saucepan. Add the garlic on medium heat and cook it until it begins to turn golden. Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the three kinds of pimentón, the vinegar and hot water. Add salt, if needed (cod may not need extra salt).

Peel and cut the cooked egg in quarters.

Serve the potatoes, cauliflower and pieces of cod with peas, if using, and quartered egg. Spoon some of the garlic-pimentón sauce over the cod and vegetables. Pass remaining sauce at the table. If you have not used peas, garnish the plates with parsley.










More recipes with salt cod:
Cod Fritters with Molasses (Tortillitas de Bacalao con Miel de Caña) http://mykitcheninspain.blogspot.com.es/2011/04/if-its-good-friday-it-must-be-bacalao.html
Salt Cod in Garlic Pil Pil Sauce (Bacalao al Pil Pil) http://mykitcheninspain.blogspot.com.es/2016/03/bacalao-is-coming-round-again.html
Chickpeas and Spinach with Cod Dumplings (Potaje de Garbanzos y Espinacas con Rellenos) http://mykitcheninspain.blogspot.com.es/2012/02/updating-traditional-bacalao-dish-for.html
Garlicky Salt Cod Spread (Brandada de Bacalaohttp://mykitcheninspain.blogspot.com.es/2010/10/taking-it-on-road.html 
Olive Pickers’ Cod and Potato Stew (Pote Aceitunero) http://mykitcheninspain.blogspot.com.es/2010/11/family-that-picks-together-sticks.html 
Salt Cod with Manchego and Pine Nuts (Bacalao al Ajo Arriero)  http://mykitcheninspain.blogspot.com.es/2014/10/spain-gourmetour-cant-let-them-go.html

HAPPY EASTER TO ALL.