Showing posts with label rennet. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rennet. Show all posts

Saturday, October 1, 2022

LUSCIOUS MANGO TART

 

Mangos grown in Málaga, Osteen variety, are in season now.

My little mango tree again produced a single fruit. It was the best mango I’ve ever eaten, but it was soon gone. Happily, Málaga mangos are in season. I bought locally-grown ones from the couple who has a clothing shop that I pass on the way to the market. So, for a few weeks, I’m rolling in mangos. Besides breakfast, maybe a mango tart?


Luscious. no-bake mango tart has cuajada, cream cheese and whipped cream and is set with gelatin. An easy crumb crust doesn't need baking either. 


Diced fresh mango can be scattered on top of the tart before chilling or served alongside. Alternatively, cook the mango with sugar and ginger and spoon the fruit and syrup over the slices when serving.


Whipped cream makes a very rich mango mousse, but low-fat products can be used instead.


Option: instead of filling a tart shell with the mousse, spoon it into dessert coupes. They can be served chilled or frozen.


Mix and match the dairy components of this tart. At the bottom left are small cartons, of cuajada, unsweetened milk custard. Clockwise, above, is mascarpone, a cream cheese that can be substituted for the "original" cream cheese at the bottom. "Estilo griego" is thick Greek-style yogurt, much tangier than cuajada. On the upper right is "queso fresco batido," a no-fat, whipped fresh cheese, somewhat like cottage cheese in taste. On the right is "nata para montar," whipping cream. In the center is no-fat plain yogurt. Other ingredients, not shown, that could be used to make the mousse are requesón, which is similar to ricotta, and cottage cheese.

This week someone brought a lovely no-bake cheesecake with a fruit topping to a friend’s birthday party. The cheesecake wasn’t set with gelatin, but with cuajada. I was intrigued.

Cuajada, unmolded.

Cuajada is a sort of “custard” with no eggs. Cuajo, an enzyme (rennet or junket), sets the custard. Cuajada is, basically, the first step in cheese making. But, instead of cutting the curds and draining off the whey, the thickened milk is poured into cups and allowed to cuajar, set. Cuajada is served with honey, fruit and nuts, an old-fashioned traditional dessert in Euskadi (Basque Land).

In Spain, supermarkets sell packets of powdered ready-mix cuajada, similar to junket pudding mix in the U.S. This is what is used to make the no-bake cheesecake. The cuajada powder contains sugar, which I don’t use. Instead, I bought cups of prepared, ready-to-eat. unsweetened cuajada  in the dairy section. However, as the prepared cuajada was already coagulated, it wouldn’t work for setting the cheesecake. I used it as if it were yogurt or whipped cottage cheese to make a creamy, airy mango mousse with gelatin to fill the tart shell. 

You can mix and match the dairy components. Use yogurt, cottage cheese or ricotta to replace the cuajada. Use more cream cheese and less yogurt and call the tart a “cheesecake.” Use non-fat yogurt and reduced-fat sour “cream” for a less rich version. Or, up the quantity of fruit and decrease the dairy component. Total volume of ingredients, fruit plus dairy, should be about 5 ½ cups for the given amount of gelatin. 

Mangos (also figs) are so sweet that they hardly need added sugar in this dessert. Lemon juice points up their sweetness but isn’t needed to prevent oxidation, as mangos don’t darken with exposure to air. Most varieties of mango are somewhat fibrous. If you want an absolutely smooth mousse, after pureeing the fruit with the yogurt or cuajada and cream cheese, press the mixture through a sieve to remove fibrous bits. 

If you prefer a soft-set mango mousse, decrease the gelatin and place the cream in dessert cups instead of the tart shell. Serve it with a spoon. 

Use any favorite crumb crust, store bought, baked or no-bake. A 10-inch fluted flan ring with removable bottom is perfect for this tart, but it can also be made in a pie pan, springform mold or individual tart molds. (My tart, pictured, is smaller because I made the crumb crust first and then realized I had more than enough mango cream to fill it. The remainder filled four dessert cups.) Both the tart and dessert cups can be frozen. 

No-Bake Mango Tart
Tarta de Mango sin Horno

How many mangos? Depends on their size. A one-pounder will make enough chopped fruit for this recipe. Smaller ones, you'll need two or three. 

Easy way to cut a mango.
You can peel whole mangos, then slice the flesh from the flattened center pit. Or, place a whole mango upright on the cutting board and slice downwards on both sides of the pit. Instead of peeling, score the pulp with a sharp knife, then gently bend the mango half so that it opens up into segments. Cut them away from the skin.

Serves 10.

1 ½ cups chopped mango (12-14 ounces peeled and pitted)
4 tablespoons cold water
2 tablespoons unflavored gelatin
2 cups plain (unsweetened) cuajada or yogurt 
½ cup (4 ounces) cream cheese, softened
Zest of a small lemon
3 tablespoons lemon juice
½ teaspoon grated ginger
4 tablespoons sugar OR ½ teaspoon liquid stevia (optional)
1 ½ cups whipping cream, chilled
Crumb crust for a 10-inch pan (recipe follows)
Chopped fresh mango or mango in syrup, to serve

Peel and chop mangos to make 1 ½ cups. 

Place the water in a small bowl and sprinkle the gelatin into it. Allow to soak for at least 5 minutes.

Puree mango with yogurt.

Combine the cuajada or yogurt, cream cheese and chopped mango in a food processor or blender. Process until smooth. Add the lemon zest and juice and ginger. Taste the mango cream mixture. If it needs sweetening, add 2 tablespoons of the sugar OR ¼ teaspoon of the stevia. 

Add the softened gelatin to the processor and blend again until smooth.

Place the whipping cream in a large chilled bowl and, using chilled beaters, whip it until it holds soft peaks. Beat in remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar OR ¼ teaspoon of stevia.


Fold mango into cream.

Fold the mango mixture into the whipped cream until thoroughly combined. Spread the filling evenly in the crumb crust. Chill the tart at least 8 hours before serving.

Serve slices of the tart with chopped fresh mango or mango that has been cooked in sugar syrup with a piece of ginger. 


No-Bake Crumb Crust
Pastel de Galletas sin Horno

This crumb crust is not baked. It needs to be chilled before filling with the mango mousse, so make it first. Mix melted butter with cookie crumbs and press into a tart pan. Chill the crust or, if you’re in a hurry, place the tart pan in the freezer. 

In Spain, use galletas María, plain, not-too-sweet, cookies, to make the crumbs. Graham crackers or any cookie or cracker can be used. Grind them to crumbs in a food processor or place the cookies in a plastic bag and crush them with a rolling pin. Add crushed almonds or walnuts, if you like. If using cracker crumbs, you may want to add a spoonful of sugar to the crumbs.

Flavor the crust any way you like. I added crushed aniseed, but cinnamon would also be good. 

This crust can also be baked to make a crisper shell for the tart. (See below for more crust options.)



1 ½ cups cookie or cracker crumbs
Sugar (optional)
1/8 teaspoon aniseed, crushed
3 ounces unsalted butter, melted

Combine crumbs, sugar, if using, aniseed and melted butter. Mix thoroughly. Spread the mixture in the tart pan. Using hands or a flat utensil (bottom of a cup, for instance), press the crumb mixture firmly and evenly in the pan. Refrigerate at least 2 hours so the butter solidifies.










More recipes with mangos:







More recipes for tart crusts;




Saturday, December 1, 2012

EVERYTHING BUT THE GOAT

Fresh goat cheese.
I’ve just made fresh goat cheese, start to finish. I attended a workshop where a master cheesemaker showed us all the steps, from curdling the milk to pressing the curds.

Well, everything but the goat. The cheesemaker, Juan José Ocaña Mateo of Quesos Sierra Crestillina (http://www.quesossierracrestellina.es/) , brought 31 liters of fresh, pastereurized goat’s milk from his dairy farm in the Sierra Crestellina, near Casares in Málaga province (southern Spain).

My little cheese is a bit lumpy, but it tastes wonderful. Fresh and sweet, with just a light salting. It keeps up to two weeks, refrigerated. I love fresh goat cheese for breakfast, with toast “buttered” with olive oil, maybe a slice of tomato. It’s also delicious drizzled with honey and sprinkled with walnuts as a dessert.

I learned a lot about the cheese making process and about how different types of cheeses are made.

Fresh cheese is made with pasteurized milk to insure that it has no nasty bacteria (such as brucellosis, a disease that can be transmitted in raw milk). Pasteurization also destroys good bacteria, those that give matured cheeses their particular aroma and flavor. For cheeses that are to be aged, various fermenting agents and molds are reintroduced to the milk. For our fresh cheese, no additions are necessary.

Juan José Ocaña, master cheesemaker.
Juan measures out a tiny amount of liquid cuajo, rennet, a substance taken from the stomach of suckling animals. The type and quantity of rennet influence the cheese’s characteristics. Diluted with distilled water, the rennet is stirred into milk that has been warmed to 38ºC (100ºF).

Then we wait, about an hour and a half, while the milk curdles. Juan shows us a Power Point presentation about the dairy and cheesemaking. It is a family business going back several generations. He describes himself as a cabrero, a goatherd, but, in fact, he does everything from milking goats to marketing cheese. The family has 450 goats of the Payoya breed, autochthonous to the Sierra. A goat produces an average of 1.8 liters (just under 2 quarts) of milk daily, but not all are producing milk at a given time. Pipes carry the milk directly from the milking barn to the cheesemaking facility.

Cutting the curds with a lyre.
We return to our cheese making. After everyone washes hands, Juan tests the curds by cutting them with scissors. Then we take turns cutting the curds with a lira, a lyre-shaped paddle. Clumps gradually separate into smaller and smaller “beads.”







The suero, or whey, is drained off, leaving the curds. On the farm, the whey is fed to pigs that are raised for meat or made into requesón—ricotta cheese—by heating the whey until the protein coagulates into a smooth cheese.







Next step, to mold and press the curds. Cheesemakers, both artisanal and industrial, today use hygienic plastic forms, but in former times, they used strips of woven esparto grass to shape the cheeses. That’s what we are using for this workshop.


We twist the strips into small circles and place them on top of a grooved cheese board that allows the whey to drain into a bucket. Using our hands, we fill the molds with milky curds and gently press and compact them, gradually tightening the cinch. When the cheese holds its shape, it’s ready.



 Cheeses to be cured are submerged in salmuera, a brine, for a period of time. Ours are lightly sprinkled with salt, wrapped and ya está—ready to eat.










Semi-cured goat cheese.


Our workshop finishes with a cata, a tasting, of aged cheeses from the Sierra Crestellina farm. The semi-cured (aged two months) is creamy with a mild lactic tang, a natural rind, perfect for a cheese sandwich. Juan said it’s a good melting cheese. 

Good melting cheese.







The cured cheese is matured five months. It has a stronger aroma, is fattier and drier in consistency. The third cheese is a raw milk añejo, aged eight months. (Raw milk cheeses aged more than 60 days are safe.) It has a thick moldy rind, is saltier, drier, more pungent than the less mature cheeses. It is my favorite. It seems to be calling out for a copita of fino Sherry.

Raw milk añejo cheese has a thick rind, sunken shape.