SPANISH CHRISTMAS COOKIES WITH A HINT OF MOORISH SPAIN

 

A recipe in Flavors of al-Andalus for Christmas cookies that are perfect for Hanukkah because they are made with olive oil. 

In my new cookbook, FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS, The Culinary Legacy of Spain, the chapter of “Sweets and Breads” includes many popular Christmas sweets that can trace their origins to Moorish Spain (711 to 1492), to the communities of Muslim and Sephardic Jewish peoples who populated the land.

Many present-day sweets and pastries have names, such as alfajores and almojábanas*, that come from Arabic. Even azúcar, sugar, comes from the Arabic sukkar. Though their confection might have changed in the centuries since Arabic was the lingua franca, many Spanish sweets still carry the traces of their origins. 

Following the Reconquest and the establishment of the Inquisition, Islamic and Sephardic culture and foodways were suppressed as a way to consolidate the power of the Catholic monarchs of the newly unified Spanish kingdom. Yet many of the confections of the time managed to survive.

Improbably, it was nuns in cloistered convents who kept alive the Moorish tradition of sweet making. Conversos, Jews (and some Muslims too), who converted to Catholicism rather than flee the country, became Christians, sometimes sending their daughters to take vows as nuns. Many took with them to the convents their cherished recipes for delectable pastries and confections--marzipan and almond nougat, airy fried pastry puffs, fig sweetmeats, jam-filled tarts. Made by nuns under the sign of the Cross, Moorish sweets lived on.

*Alfajores, Honey-Almond Logs, Almojábanas, Honey Buns 

A selection of store-bought Spanish Christmas sweets, all of which have their origins in Moorish Spain. Clockwise from upper left are marzipan pieces; turrón, almond nougat candy, and, on the platter, mantecados, polvorones, and roscos. 

Crumbly Olive Oil Cookies

Mantecados de Aceite

(Recipe from Flavors of al-Andalus)

The town of Estepa in the province of Sevilla is renowned for its mantecados, cinnamon-lard cookies (and the similar polvorones), which are said to have originated in the Santa Clara convent in the 16th century. Just as the town’s church of Santa María is built on the foundations of the mosque that came before (Estepa was Muslim from 711 to 1241), so the recipe for these cookies, beloved for the Christmas season, has its roots in Moorish times. Of course, the Moorish version wasn’t made with lard!

Olive oil replaces lard!

The Moorish recipe appears in an anonymous Andalusí cookbook from the 13th century. It calls for toasted wheat flour, honey, and oil kneaded together and spiced with black pepper and sweet spices. Present-day mantecados are made with sweet cinnamon and sometimes cloves, but no pepper; sugar instead of honey, and lard instead of olive oil. (Although, in this day of health-consciousness, the version with olive oil is popular again.) The crumbly, melt-in-the-mouth cookies migrated with Sephardic Jews. Made with oil, butter, or margarine, they are known in many parts of the world as biscochos, polvorones, pecan puffs, and Mexican wedding cookies. 

This recipe makes a tender cookie that crumbles easily, so handle carefully. Because they are crumbly, mantecados are usually individually wrapped in tissue paper. The cookies keep well if stored in an air-tight container.

Crumbly mantecados.

Use your best extra virgin olive oil for these cookies. Toasting the flour and almonds gets rid of excess moisture and adds a subtle toasted flavor. Take care not to let them brown—they should barely color. You will not need to flour the work surface because the oil keeps the dough from sticking. But you will need an off-set spatula or wide knife to lift the rounds of dough once they are cut. 

Makes 25 (1 ¾-inch) cookies 

2 ¼ cups all-purpose flour

1 cup ground almonds

2 teaspoons cinnamon

Pinch of salt

¾ cup extra virgin olive oil

1 cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted, plus additional for sprinkling on finished cookies

½ teaspoon grated lemon peel

1 tablespoon sesame seed

Preheat oven to 350º. 

Spread the flour on a rimmed baking sheet and the almonds in a shallow oven pan. Toast them in the oven, stirring every 5 minutes, until flour and almonds are lightly colored. The almonds will start to color in about 5 minutes. Remove them. The flour will be pale gold in about 15 minutes. Remove the flour and turn off the oven.

Cool the flour and almonds completely. Sift the flour with cinnamon and salt.

Place the oil, sugar, and lemon peel in a mixing bowl and beat them until very smooth. Gradually stir in the toasted flour, then the almonds.

Turn the dough out onto a board or marble work surface. Combine the dough by kneading it with a few squeezes. Gather it together in a ball and chill it for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours.

Preheat oven to 350ºF. Line a baking sheet with parchment.

Divide the dough in half. Keep one half refrigerated. Roll or pat the other half out on an unfloured surface to a thickness of ¾ inch. Sprinkle some of the sesame seeds on top of the dough. With the rolling pin, press them into the surface of the dough.

Use a 1 ¾ -inch cookie cutter to cut rounds of the dough. Transfer them to the baking sheet. (Use a knife or offset spatula to lift them from the board.) Gather remaining dough, roll out and cut again.

Repeat rolling and cutting with the remaining half of dough. Sprinkle the tops of the cookies with sesame and press it lightly into the dough.

Bake the cookies until they are lightly golden, about 20 minutes. Do not let them brown. Slide the cookies on baking parchment onto a rack. Let them cool completely. 

Once the cookies are cool, wrap each cookie individually in a 7-inch square of tissue paper, twisting the ends to enclose.

Mantecados made with olive oil instead of lard, nougat, and marzipan are all perfect for the Jewish holiday of Hanukkah.

Here are more cookies and desserts from FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS that are cherished for Christmas and that are also suitable for Hanukkah (which begins tomorrow, December 14, at sundown). Most of the recipes in the book have headnotes, like the mantecados above, telling their backstory in Moorish Spain. 

Cookies and Cakes

Almond Cookies (Almendrados). Almonds are an emblematic ingredient of sweets and pastries from Moorish Spain. These are crisp-chewy, very easy to make. 

Orange-Scented Ring Cookies (Roscos de Naranja). Are they cookies or doughnuts? Good any time of the year, but especially beloved at Christmas. Roscos are delightful for dunking in coffee, tea, or sweet wine.

Shortbread Bars with Angel's Hair Filling (Cortadillos de Cidra). The cortadillos sold in shops are confected with lard and filled with "angel's hair," a confit made with candied gourd. The recipe in Flavors of al-Andalus is made with olive oil and filled with apricot jam.

Fig and Date Turnovers (Empanadillas de Higos y Dátiles). These turnovers with an olive-oil crust will remind you of mince pies. This version is baked, but the turnovers can also be fried.

Puddings

Almond Cream Pudding (Sopa de Almendras). In Spain this "almond soup" is served for the festive dinner of Noche Buena, Christmas Eve. It is a descendent of menjar blanc from medieval times. The soup is a thick cream while hot but cools to custard consistency. It is served with slices of sweet brioche.

Pumpkin-Almond Pudding (Arnadí). This dessert popular in the Valencia region, is said to be of Arab or Sephardic origin. In that era it would not have been confected of pumpkin, as the squashes were unknown at the time, but was probably made with edible gourds or eggplant. Serve this pudding as an alternative to pumpkin pie! 

Confections

Fig Pâté (Pan de Higos). Made with dried figs, almonds, and sesame seeds, this confection is called in Spanish fig "bread," although it's not really bread, nor is it baked. The pâté can be made with any dried fruit such as apricots, figs, raisins, prunes, or a mixture. The rolls make lovely holiday gifts.

Honey-Almond Logs (Alfajores). This honeyed sweet is related to turrón, almond nougat candy. For these, ground toasted almonds and breadcrumbs are mixed with spices and bound with a honey-sugar syrup, then rolled into logs. Delectable. They would typically be served with tiny copitas of sweet wine or anise liqueur, but they are also good with a cup of tea or a glass of milk.

Toledo Marzipan Rings (Melindres de Toledo). Made of ground almonds and sugar, marzipan is molded and colored into many shapes. These easy rings with white frosting are easily confected at home. 

Fried Pastries. 

Fried pastries have deep roots in the cooking of al-Andalus. Many of them are popular for the Christmas holidays: little fried pies filled with sweet potato paste and various sorts of fritters.

Fritters (Buñuelos). These fritters were street food sold in the souks of al-Andalus. Called isfanj in cookbooks of the era, buñuelos in present times are sold at stalls at village ferias and are special for holidays.

Honey-Glazed Fritters (Pestiños). This recipe doesn't appear in Flavors of al-Andalus, but you'll find it here. A traditional Andalusian homemade Christmas sweet, it is perfect for Hanukkah because it is fried in olive oil, symbolic of the holiday. 

You still have time to make these Christmas sweets. You'll find the recipes in FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS, a cookbook for Christmas gifting or a wonderful addition to your own kitchen! See below for where to order. 

I am so honored to have this review from chef and humanitarian, José Andrés.

The gorgeous Padma Lakshmi gave my book a shout-out on Instagram! See that video clip here

 

FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS 

The Culinary Legacy of Spain

Here's the ideal gift for the cooks in your life--FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS, The Culinary Legacy of Spain. This is a fresh angle on the traditional cooking of Spain, with 120 recipes that can trace their roots to Moorish Spain. See below for where to order. 

This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times. Dishes from this era include exotic spices such as saffron, the use of fruits and almonds with savory dishes, and honeyed sweets and pastries. The flavors of al-Andalus live on in modern Spanish cooking and are what makes Spain’s cuisine distinctive from the rest of Europe. (Hippocrene Books)    

 Order on IndiePubs (USA) 

Use PROMO CODE HIPPOCRENE40 for 40% off on all Hippocrene titles at IndiePubs online bookstore.

***

Order on amazon (USA)

Order on amazon.es  (Spain)

Order on amazon.co.uk (UK)

Order on amazon.com.au (Australia)

(If you order on Amazon, please give my book a review!)

***

Order on ark.no (Norway)

 

SLOW COOKING, FAST

 

Potaje is a slow-cooked Spanish dish, not exactly a soup nor a stew, containing legumes and vegetables, often with sausage or other cured meats. Potaje is different from cocido, another one-pot meal with legumes, because with potaje the broth is not separated to serve as a first course. This version of potaje, using canned chickpeas, is quick to prepare.

Icy winds from snowy northern Spain are whipping across the south. Winter is here, ahead of schedule (ski stations are open). I’ve pulled out the woolen sweaters and I want, right now, a big pot of soup, a potaje, the Andalusian comida de cuchara—spoon food—chock full of vegetables, legumes, and sausage. 

But with high electricity costs, I balk at slow-cooking the soup pot for a couple of hours! My alternative, a shortcut to potaje, is every bit as heart-warming as the original.  

Chickpeas and other dried legumes take one to two hours to cook from scratch. Using a jar or can of cooked chickpeas and thinly sliced cutlets of pork in place of chunks of pork or beef shin that need long cooking, I have my potaje ready to eat in 35 minutes. 

While I’ll make no excuses for cutting corners—I wanted hot soup now—in actuality I didn’t save money with the potaje-express. 

• The jar of chickpeas (570 grams/2 cups) cost €1.27. The electricity for 30 minutes using 2000- watt induction cooking (lowest afternoon rate* was €0.13/kWh) cost €0.065. Total for chickpeas and energy: €1.33. The soup was ready for lunch.

• 250 grams dried chickpeas to make 2 cups cooked cost €0.55. The electricity for 2 hours (€0.13/kWh) cost €0.26. Total chickpeas and energy for slow-cooked potaje €0.81. The soup was ready for the next day's lunch. (If I cook  a large quantity of chickpeas at the same time and freeze them in 2-cup portions, I save on the next potaje.) 

Thinly sliced pork cutlets cook quickly. Pork chops could be used instead of cutlets; after cooking, cut the meat off the bones. Spareribs cut into 2-inch chunks, a turkey leg or two, chicken thighs are other possibilities. For a vegetarian potaje—even faster—omit meat and sausages and increase olive oil to ¼ cup. 

Likewise with vegetables, swap out the ones you have available. If made with chard stems and chunks of pumpkin, the potaje is known as berza. The nomenclature has always confused me because “berza” actually means “cabbage” but it doesn’t contain cabbage. The soup that has cabbage isn’t berza but potaje de coles. Which, by the way, is excellent with kale instead of cabbage. Beans or lentils can be substituted for chickpeas. 

If you want a thicker, creamier soup, shortly before serving, puree some of the chickpeas and potatoes in a blender and stir the slurry back into the pot. Some versions of potaje include a whole onion, green pepper, and tomato. At the end of cooking time, they are skimmed out, pureed, and returned to the pot. Sometimes a sofrito of onion, garlic, and tomato fried in olive oil is added.

A heart-warming meal-in-a-pot, chock full of legumes, vegetables, pieces of meat, and sausage.

Andalusian Vegetable Soup with Chickpeas and Sausage

Potaje Andaluz 

Potaje is done when cabbage and carrots are cooked.

Serves 6.

8-10 cups water

1 tablespoon salt + more if needed

8 ounces pork shoulder cutlets

1 ½ ounce tocino (salt pork), pancetta, or bacon

4-5 whole, peeled carrots

1 small onion

2 cloves

1 stalk celery

1 bay leaf

8 ounces chorizo sausage

2 cups cooked and drained chickpeas (1-pound jar)

2 potatoes (14 ounces), peeled and quartered

18-24 ounces chopped cabbage (about ¼ of head)

1 tablespoon olive oil

½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

½ teaspoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon sweet pimentón de la Vera (smoked paprika)

8 ounces morcilla sausage

Sprigs of mint to serve

Bring pot of water with 1 tablespoon of salt to a boil. Add the pork cutlets, tocino, carrots, onion stuck with cloves, celery, and bay leaf to the pot. Lower heat to medium and cook 10 minutes. 

Add the chorizo, chickpeas, potatoes, and cabbage. In a small bowl combine the oil with the pepper, cumin, and pimentón. Stir in some of the water from the pot to mix. Stir the spices into the pot. Cook 10 minutes longer. Pierce the morcillas in several places with a skewer (to prevent steam from building up and causing the sausages to burst) and add them to the pot.  Raise the heat to a boil, then lower heat and cook until cabbage and potatoes are tender, 10 to 15 minutes more. Skim the meat, tocino, sausages, carrots, and potatoes out of the potaje. Use kitchen scissors to cut them into bite-size chunks. Return them to the pot. Discard bay leaf, onion and cloves, and celery. Let the soup settle 5 minutes before serving. Garnish with sprigs of mint.

*More about saving on the electric bill  What to Cook When the Electric Bill Soars . Interestingly, since I wrote that in 2021, the most economical rates in Spain now are usually from 2 to 3 in the afternoon, instead of in the middle of the night. That's because more and more of Spain's power is generated by solar.

More versions of potaje, both slow and fast.

Andalusian Vegetable Pot (Berza)

"Gypsy Pot" (Murcia Potaje)

Canary Islands Vegetable Pot 

Lenten Stew with Salt Cod and Chickpeas 

Pottage with Kale and Beans 

Cuttlefish and Chickpea Stew

Shrimp with Chickpeas and Seafood Sausage

FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS 

The Culinary Legacy of Spain

Here's the ideal gift for the cooks in your life--FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS, The Culinary Legacy of Spain. This is a fresh angle on the traditional cooking of Spain, with 120 recipes that can trace their roots to Moorish Spain. See below for where to order. 

This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times. Dishes from this era include exotic spices such as saffron, the use of fruits and almonds with savory dishes, and honeyed sweets and pastries. The flavors of al-Andalus live on in modern Spanish cooking and are what makes Spain’s cuisine distinctive from the rest of Europe. (Hippocrene Books)    

 Order on IndiePubs (USA) 

Use PROMO CODE HIPPOCRENE40 for 40% off on all Hippocrene titles at IndiePubs online bookstore.

***

Order on amazon (USA)

Order on amazon.es  (Spain)

Order on amazon.co.uk (UK)

Order on amazon.com.au (Australia)

Q&A ABOUT THE FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS

Page spread from All About History magazine.

FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS, The Culinary Legacy of Spain is a book with 120 recipes whose roots are in Moorish Spain—the Muslim era of al-Andalus (711-1492). Chapter One sets the scene and provides the historical background for traditional recipes of modern-day Spain.

When All About History, a magazine published in the UK, asked to interview me about “how the region’s ‘flavours’ (British spelling) have influenced Spanish cuisine,” I had the answers ready. The Q&A appears as part of a special feature, “All About al-Andalus,” in the magazine’s November issue.

Here is an excerpt from the interview. The Qs are by Callum McKelvie, Features Writer of All About History. 

Q: What were some innovations (in terms of ingredients, spices, and techniques) that were brought to Spain during the Moorish rule?

Saffron flowers

A. The Arab colonizers were famed as gardeners and horticulturists. Some crops were introduced by the Arabs, others were improved with advanced techniques of cultivation, irrigation, and propagation. Durum wheat was an innovation that led to leavened bread, pasta, and couscous where before there was only flour gruel. Although saffron existed in earlier Roman times, the Arabs popularized its use as early as the 9th century. Saffron of La Mancha to this day is an esteemed product, used in many popular dishes such as paella.  

Eggplant/Aubergine

Many new vegetables and fruits came from the Muslims. A 9th century “influencer” named Ziryab popularized asparagus dishes at the caliphal court in Córdoba. But it was aubergines that became the signature vegetable of both Muslim and Sephardic communities of al-Andalus. One 13th century Andalusí cookbook lists dozens of ways to prepare them, most of which have come down to present times. 

Although olives were grown in the Iberian peninsula long before Moorish times, the Muslims greatly extended the plantations and production of oil. Almonds were another legacy, an important ingredient in both sweets and savoury foods today in Spanish cuisine. The Arabs also introduced sugarcane to Iberia and the method for extracting the cane juice and producing sugar. Although largely displaced by resorts, sugar cane still grows on the Malaga and Granada coasts. 

Q: What do you think is the greatest legacy of Moorish Spain on Spanish cuisine?

A. Cooking in olive oil may be one of the greatest legacies of Muslim culture in Spain and one which distinguishes the cooking from other European cuisines. Because Muslims did not use pig fat, cooking in oil was prevalent in medieval Iberia.  

Fried in olive oil

Even sweets were confected with olive oil. Frying in olive oil is part of the legacy. An example is buñuelos, fritters, sold in the souks of al-Andalus that in present times are sold at stalls at village ferias and are special for saints’ day festivities. 

Following the Reconquest and the establishment of the Inquisition, systematic suppression of Islamic and Sephardic culture and foodways took place as a way to consolidate the power of the Catholic monarchs of the newly unified Spanish kingdom. Lard emerged as the principal fat for cooking and for pastry confection. The Inquisition snitches could sniff out an errant stewpot by the smell of olive oil. In subsequent centuries olive oil was relegated to the poorest households. In the last century extra virgin olive oil from Spain has made a comeback in popular cuisine. Growers have improved harvest and processing methods, producing superb oil in this day and age.

Q: Do you have a favorite dish that has Moorish heritage?

A. I was hoping you would ask!

A dish with Moorish heritage: Meatballs with Saffron-Almond Sauce. The meatballs appear on the cover of Flavors of al-Andalus. The recipe is here along with a short video of a tapas party with meatballs and other dishes with the Flavors of al-Andalus.

Other articles about al-Andalus in the same issue of All About History are “Key Events,” an illustrated timeline of Moorish history; “Inside History,” a pictorial feature of the Aljafería Palace in 1065 Zaragoza; “Al-Andalus Civilian in the 9th Century,” describing styles in footwear, headwear, haircuts and beards; historical treasures, the “Pyxis (a small ivory box) of al-Mughira;” “Intellectuals of al-Andalus,” a guide to the leading thinkers of Moorish Spain, including Ibn Rushd, also known as Averroes, a philosopher known as the “prince of science,” and "Al-Andalus Mosques." (Attila the Hun, pictured on the magazine cover, rampaged about 300 years before the existence of al-Andalus.)

***   ***   ***   ***

FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS 

The Culinary Legacy of Spain

 Ask for Flavors of al-Andalus from your favorite bookseller or click below to order from IndiePubs (USA only). 

This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times. Dishes from this era include exotic spices such as saffron, the use of fruits and almonds with savory dishes, and honeyed sweets and pastries. The flavors of al-Andalus live on in modern Spanish cooking and are what makes Spain’s cuisine distinctive from the rest of Europe. (Hippocrene Books)    

 Order on IndiePubs

Use PROMO CODE HIPPOCRENE40 for 40% off on all Hippocrene titles at IndiePubs online bookstore.

IN SEARCH OF THE FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS

 

(See below for where to order.)

My new cookbook, Flavors of al-Andalus, traces the roots of many traditional dishes of Spanish cuisine back to al-Andalus, medieval Spain. They are dishes that people still cook and eat today, the food you might find in a tapas bar in Sevilla, at a village fiesta, or on the dinner table in a pueblo home.

How did I choose which recipes to include? Going through my always expanding files of Spanish recipes, I started with those that, in my opinion, are delicious, that I wanted to cook and eat. Then I narrowed them down, choosing, first, dishes with names derived from Arabic, the lingua franca in al-Andalus (for example,  albóndigas, meatballs, pictured on the book's cover). I eliminated those with tomatoes, potatoes, or peppers (vegetables unknown in medieval Spain) or pork (not eaten by the Muslim population of al-Andalus). 

Lastly, I selected recipes that resemble those mentioned in Andalusí cookbooks dating from the 10th to the 15th centuries.

My most important reference in searching for old recipes was Best of Delectable Foods and Dishes from al-Andalus and al-Maghrib: A Cookbook by Thirteenth-Century Andalusi Scholar Ibn Razīn al-Tujībī (1227–1293); translated by Nawal Nasrallah (Brill; 2021).

In Flavors of al-Andalus I frequently cite Nawal’s translation of the 13th century author, al-Tujībī, in describing the era’s influence on modern-day cooking. One example is the recipe for Baked Rice with Lamb and Egg Topping, a dish detailed in the al-Tujībī cookbook that is still made today in the Alicante region. 

Nawal Nasrallah, food historian

Nawal Nasrullah, who is Iraqi, currently resides in New Hampshire. She is a food writer and historian, literary scholar, and translator of Arabic into English. She is known for her cookbook of Iraqi cuisines, Delights from the Garden of Eden, and for translations from Arabic to English of medieval Arabic cookbooks such as the previously mentioned al-Tujībī manuscript and, her newest work, another 13th century Andalusí cookbook by an anonymous author, Smorgasbords of Andalusi and Mahgribi Dishes. 

I am so honored that Nawal gave my book, Flavors of al-Andalus, a wonderful advance review. An excerpt from what she wrote appears on the back cover of my book. 

                                                    (Alhambra, Granada, by Julio Sevillano)

Here is the more of the review from Nawal:

“With a half-dozen cookbooks on regional Spanish food already under her belt, Janet Mendel, an-award winning food writer, embarks on a journey to explore the culinary legacy of Spain by tracing its roots to medieval al-Andalus.

“With her insider’s knowledge of the region, she expertly guides us through the vibrant food markets and traditional kitchen pantries, providing a comprehensive glossary. She clearly articulates the significance of al-Andalus and traces the historical evolution of contemporary cooking techniques. This includes an exploration of how certain food names, ingredients, and even place names have been transformed from their medieval Arabic origins. These insights are tastefully interwoven throughout our journey. For example, we discover how the city of Almagro derived its name and sample its renowned eggplant pickles. We learn about the bitter oranges that flourish on trees lining the streets of Andalusia and how, historically, their juices were used to enhance many dishes with their intense and aromatic flavor.

"[Flavors of al-Andalus] is an exciting journey of discovery that invites you to explore the rich tapestry of Spanish cuisine, steeped in history, and inspired by the unique flavors of medieval al-Andalus.” 

Thanks, Nawal!

*** *** ***

Nawal has a recipe on her blog page, Recipes from al-Andalus – The Andalusi Kitchen, for "Candy Bracelets." They are charming rings made of almond marzipan and taffy, confected for children. The recipe, which comes from the anonymous 13th century cookbook, is somewhat similar to a present-day sweet from Toledo. Here is the recipe for "Toledo Marzipan Rings" as it appears in Flavors of al-Andalus. 

Toledo Marzipan Rings      

Melindres de Toledo   

Marzipan (mazapán in Spanish) is a paste made by grinding and kneading sweet almonds with sugar. It is shaped into charming figures, glazed and decorated. The center of production of marzipan is the medieval city of Toledo, southwest of Madrid. Marzipan evolved from an Arabic sweetmeat that was introduced to Spain by the Moors and was confected by the Sephardic community of Toledo. 

In 1085 Christian armies under King Alfonso VI took Toledo from the reigning Arabs. After the Reconquest, the art of confecting marzipan was kept alive in convents in Toledo. Cloistered nuns prepared the sweets as gifts to their benefactors. 

Variations on marzipan are popular in many Muslim countries for Eid al-Fitr, the joyous celebration at the end of Ramadan fasting. Sephardic Jewish communities in many parts of the world serve marzipan delicacies for wedding feasts and other festive occasions. In Spain, the sweet is especially beloved at Christmas.  

Most marzipan is professionally made in the Toldedo’s obradores, confectioners, which create beautiful figures and sculptures molded from the almond-sugar paste. But it is simple enough to make at home. These tiny rings are a good starting point. 

The melindres make delightful Christmas cookies. If you start with whole almonds, after blanching and skinning them, toast them briefly in the oven before grinding. You can substitute unsweetened almond meal. Add only enough water to make a mixture that sticks together—very little in the case of fresh almonds, more for floury almond meal.

Makes 35 (2-inch) rings    

2 ½ cups unsweetened ground almonds

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

8 to10 teaspoons water

1 egg white

1 cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Combine the ground almonds and granulated sugar in a blender or food processor and grind until very smooth. Add water, one teaspoon at a time, processing until the almond mixture forms a smooth mass that sticks together. The almond dough should be soft enough to mold. Turn it out onto a marble slab and knead briefly. 

Preheat oven to 300ºF.

Divide the almond mixture into balls about the size of a pecan. Roll each one into a cord, 4 ½ inches long and about 3/8 inch in diameter. Bend the cord to make a circle, pinching the ends together. (If the almond dough breaks just pinch together the broken bits.) Place the rings on a baking sheet lined with parchment.

Bake the rings 10 minutes. Cool them on a rack.

Combine the egg white and sifted confectioners’ sugar. Beat at high speed for 3 minutes. Add the lemon juice and beat 2 minutes longer.

Dip the rings into the egg white glaze. Use a skewer to drag the rings through the egg white. Lift the rings out and let excess drip off. Place them on a baking sheet and return to the oven for 8 minutes. Remove and cool the rings on a rack.

*** *** ***

FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS 

The Culinary Legacy of Spain

 Ask for Flavors of al-Andalus from your favorite bookseller or click below to order. 

This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times. Dishes from this era include exotic spices such as saffron, the use of fruits and almonds with savory dishes, and honeyed sweets and pastries. The flavors of al-Andalus live on in modern Spanish cooking and are what makes Spain’s cuisine distinctive from the rest of Europe. (Hippocrene Books)    

 Order on IndiePubs

Use PROMO CODE HIPPOCRENE40 for 40% off on all Hippocrene titles at IndiePubs online bookstore.

***

Order on amazon

Order on amazon.es

***   ***   ***