GAZPACHO WITH NO TOMATOES?

 

Campesino, Mijas, 1968.

Gazpacho in one form or another is nearly as old as these hills, although it was not always the red tomato concoction so well-known today. 

Gazpacho evolved as summer sustenance for laborers working in the fields and olive groves. They mixed it in a large wooden bowl, thinned the bread-water-olive oil mixture with fresh spring water, and added whatever fresh ingredients were on hand—chopped cucumbers, onions, lettuce, figs, oranges. Field hands gathered around and dipped right into the communal bowl. 

In rural areas throughout Andalusia are found various sorts of rustic, peasant gazpacho with no tomatoes and no blender required. From Córdoba comes ensalada de caldo, “broth” salad, made with chopped lettuce, oil and vinegar, sometimes with the addition of raw fava beans, to which water is added. In Almería, gazpacho pobre, “poor gazpacho,” is simply chopped cucumber and onion, oil, salt and vinegar, diluted with water. And bread of course. Sometimes the bread is mashed up with garlic and olive oil; sometimes it is simply broken into bits and added to the soup. A “winter” gazpacho, from the Guadalhorce Valley (Málaga province), is popularly made with oranges, for which this valley is reknowned, instead of summer’s tomatoes. 

I’ve been making plenty of classic gazpacho with garden tomatoes, but, in honor of the cucumbers and a basket of fresh figs, here is a refreshing green gazpacho, the one called “poor.”

Gazpacho was traditionally made in a large wooden bowl.

"Poor" gazpacho of cucumbers is not so poor with fancy garnishes.

Peasant gazpacho of cucumbers, onions, figs, and bread is garnished with shredded lettuce, tomatoes, peppers and shrimp.

Peasant Gazpacho with Cucumber 

Gazpacho Pobre de Pepino

Best for gazpacho is day-old country bread, crusts removed. Traditionally, the bread is mashed with garlic and olive oil in a dornillo, a wooden bowl. But blending makes a more refined soup. Adding luxury ingredients such as shrimp takes it out of the peasant category!

No tomatoes in this gazpacho!

Serves 4.

1 cup fresh breadcrumbs

1-2 cloves garlic

 ½ cup water

1 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons lemon juice

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil + additional to finish

1 (8-ounce) cucumber

¼ cup chopped scallions

1 cup very cold water

Shredded lettuce

Chopped fresh figs

Mint sprigs

Croutons or bread to serve

Crushed ice (optional)

Cooked, peeled and chopped shrimp (optional)

Finely chopped green peppers (optional)

Chopped tomato (optional)

Place the breadcrumbs in a bowl or blender container with the garlic and ½ cup of water. Let it sit 10 minutes until the bread is softened. Add the salt, lemon juice and oil. Blend to make a smooth paste. If not serving immediately, cover and refrigerate the mixture.

Crushed ice adds sparkle.

When ready to serve the gazpacho, place the paste in a serving bowl and add the cold water. Peel the cucumber if the skin is very tough. Cut the flesh into ¼ -inch dice, discarding any seeds. There should be about 1 1/3 cups diced cucumber. 

Add the cucumbers to the bowl with the scallions, lettuce and figs. Garnish with sprigs of mint and drizzle with additional olive oil. Serve into shallow bowls accompanied by croutons. Add as desired crushed ice, shrimp, peppers, tomato.  

More recipes with cucumbers:

Chilled Cucumber-Yogurt Soup.

Cucumber-Almond Gazpacho.

Cucumber-Melon-Cheese Salad.

Salad with Purslane, Watermelon and Cucumber.

Cucumber Granita.

Country Gazpacho (tomatoes)