Showing posts with label brunch. Show all posts
Showing posts with label brunch. Show all posts

Saturday, June 15, 2024

THE OREGANO HARVEST

 

Oregano soon to be harvested.

"Wait till it starts to flower," Reme told me. "Then cut off the stems and dry them." She had given me a small potted oregano plant last winter that I set out in the garden. It's budding now, soon to be harvested.

Reme, my aerobics teacher and also author of a cookbook about traditional pueblo cooking, said she uses the pungent herb in any kind of guisocazuela de arroz or fideos (rice or noodle casserole), pisto (medley of summer vegetables), adobo (marinade for pork or fish). 

She also adds oregano to chopped raw tomatoes and keeps them in a jar ready for slathering on breakfast toast. Now that's a great idea, I thought. Must try that.

How to use the tomato sauce? Spread it on toasted bread, drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, and top with sliced ibérico ham or your favorite cheese. Use it in place of cooked tomato sauce for pizza, pasta, eggplant parmigiana. 


Raw tomatoes chopped with oregano and garlic, perfect for spreading on breakfast toast with extra virgin olive oil.


Tomato-oregano spread, toasted molletes (buns) with extra virgin olive oil, ibérico ham, anchovies, olives, queso fresco (fresh goat cheese) add up to brunch.  



My dream breakfast--toast, olive oil, and superb ibérico ham.


Same uncooked tomato-oregano sauce, spread on molletes, with pizza toppings. (From top right to bottom right; sliced chorizo and mozzarella; artichokes from a jar, diced serrano ham, and mozzarella; and anchovies, black olives, and mozzarella.) Split molletes, spread with tomato sauce, add toppings, drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, bake in fan-oven at 400ºF. until cheese is melted and edges of crusts beginning to brown, 10 minutes.

The tomato-oregano spread is quickly made in a food processor or blender. The tomatoes needn’t be peeled. The more thoroughly you process the tomatoes, the fewer bits of tomato skin remain in the sauce. But if you like it chunky, process less. 

A tablespoon of chopped fresh oregano for two pounds of tomatoes seems about right—noticeable flavor without dominating. If you use dried oregano, reduce to one teaspoon. Use a minimum of salt in the mix and serve the tomato spread at the table with flaky salt. 

Don’t blend in the oil or you’ll end up with an emulsion, like gazpacho. Once the tomatoes are placed in a clean jar, add enough oil to completely cover the surface so the tomatoes are sealed from exposure to the air. Store capped and refrigerated. Use a clean spoon to dip the sauce. Tomato sauce keeps 4 to 5 days. 

Uncooked Tomato Sauce with Oregano
Salsa Cruda de Tomate con Oregano


It's early in tomato season, but these big plum tomatoes (tomate pera) are super flavorful. 

2 pounds ripe tomatoes 
1 clove garlic
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
½ teaspoon salt
2-3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
To serve
Toasted molletes, sliced bread or crusty rolls
Extra virgin olive oil
Flaky salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Sliced ibérico ham, cheese, anchovies, etc

Remove the stems and cores of the tomatoes and cut them up (makes 5 to 6 cups cut-up tomatoes). Place them in a food processor or blender with the garlic, salt, and chopped oregano. Process until fairly smooth. 

Place in a clean glass jar. Add enough oil to cover the surface of the tomatoes. Cap the jar and refrigerate. 


To dry oregano:  Cut the stems when the buds begin to flower. Tie them together and hang the bunch upside down in a dry place away from direct light. Place a tray underneath to catch bits of leaves that fall off or enclose the bundle loosely in a paper bag. When completely dry the leaves can be stripped off the stems and stored in a jar. (In humid weather, dry herbs in an oven with the “dehydrator” setting.) 

Gastronomía Tradicional Mijeña by Remedios Valenzuela.

About those toasted buns called molletes.




With my oregano spread I am sampling a very exclusive ham, Raza & Oro,  100% ibérico of the rubio-dorado (golden-blond) breed from Dehesa de los Monteros in the Serranía de Ronda. 




Saturday, February 7, 2015

FLAMENCO EGGS—THE SPANISH CHAKCHOUKA

Huevos a la flamenca--flamenco eggs.
The world’s favorite egg dish these days seems to be chakchouka, a North African way of cooking eggs in a spicy tomato sauce. It reminds me a lot of a Spanish dish—huevos a la flamenca—flamenco eggs, eggs baked in tomato sauce.

Flamenco eggs, a Sevilla specialty, is a flouncy variation of huevos al plato—eggs on the plate with fried potatoes, chorizo and ham. Flamenco eggs used to appear on restaurant menus and at tapa bars everywhere in Andalusia. It was usually served as a starter or else a light lunch or supper dish. Never for breakfast!

A dear friend of mine, Annie, a tiny slip of a woman, used to amaze the waiters at our favorite venta (rustic country restaurant). She would start her meal with a plate of fried boquerones (fresh anchovies), move on to a starter of huevos a la flamenca, then go through a whole leg of baby lamb and, usually, finish with the house-made flan! That was to last her until her next trip to Spain.

I’m not sure why huevos a la flamenca have mostly disappeared from restaurant menus. Perhaps they are too ordinary, old-fashioned, in this day of chef-inspired creative cuisine. But they make a comforting, satisfying family meal.


Ready for the oven--eggs on top of tomato sauce.
The usual preparation is one or two eggs per person, baked in individual cazuelitas, earthenware ramekins, with tomato sauce, peas, chorizo, ham and strips of roasted red pepper. Some variations call for diced fried potatoes as well, mixed with the tomato sauce. Should you prefer a vegetarian version, just omit the chorizo and ham and substitute sliced sauteed mushrooms and quartered artichoke hearts.

Like a kick of chile heat? Use a little cayenne in the tomato sauce or just sprinkle hot pimentón on top of the eggs.

If preferred, the eggs can all be baked in one pan, such as a heavy, oven-proof skillet. It’s even possible to cook them on top of the stove, covering the pan until whites are set.

Serve the eggs with chunks of bread, fried bread or toast that’s been drizzled with good olive oil. No reason you can't serve them for Sunday brunch!

You need a thick tomato sauce for the bottom of the cazuelita. Make it with fresh or canned tomatoes (recipes here or here)  or use canned tomate frito or even a jar of your favorite marinera sauce.

Flamenco eggs with ham, chorizo, peas, asparagus.

Baked Eggs Flamenco
Huevos a la Flamenca

Serves 4.

Olive oil
1 cup thick tomato sauce (canned or freshly made)
4-8 eggs
4 slices chorizo sausage, cut in half
1 ounce sliced serrano ham
¼ cup cooked peas
8 cooked asparagus tips
Salt and pepper
Pimentón (paprika)
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
8 strips roasted red pepper


Preheat oven to 375ºF/190ºC.

Drizzle oil in four 6-inch cazuelas or ovenproof ramekins. Divide the tomato sauce between them. Make indentations in the sauce.

Break 1 or 2 eggs into each cazuela. Put 2 halves of chorizo on either side of the eggs. Tuck slices of ham into the sauce. Sprinkle with peas. Arrange 2 asparagus tips in each cazuela. Sprinkle each with salt and pepper, a pinch of pimentón and parsley. Cross 2 strips of pimiento on top of each. Drizzle a little oil over the tops of the eggs.

Bake until whites are set, but yolks still runny. This takes about 12 minutes in an earthenware cazuela. The eggs will continue to cook after removing from oven, so take them out when whites are just barely set.