Saturday, August 16, 2025

“VIBRANT RECIPES SURPRISE AND DELIVER”

 

Here's Donna Gelb in her New York kitchen with my cookbook, Flavors of al-Andalus. She’s the one who wrote those glowing words "vibrant recipes that surprise and deliver," that appear on the back cover of my cookbook. She's preparing to make Vegetable Paella, one of the recipes from the book.

Donna was on my select list of persons who received the advance (digital) edition of the book. Besides being a cookbook author herself she is also a board member of the Culinary Historians of New York. So I thought she might be especially interested in a cookbook with a historical angle (those flavors of al-Andalus come from Moorish Spain, 711 CE to 1492). Here’s what she wrote:

I’ve cooked with Donna in her New York apartment, where we prepared paella for family and guests—two paellas, actually, as we had a vegetarian amongst us. And she has joined me in my kitchen in Spain on several occasions.

We met when Donna was exploring the idea of writing a cookbook/memoir about being Jewish in Franco-era Spain. 

As a teenager she lived with her family in Madrid where her father had business interests. She remembers one Christmas season, her father was given one of Spain’s esteemed hams. Not to be enjoyed by a Jewish family, the ham was gifted to their housekeeper, Conchi. Donna recalls another occasion when the family was celebrating a Passover seder in a restaurant cellar* while barefoot penitents dragged chains past the windows during Semana Santa processions. 

*It was not until 1967 that Spain passed the law of religious freedom that allowed non-Catholics to practice their religions. In 1968 the ministry of justice repealed the Alhambra decree of 1492 that expelled Jews from Spain. My cookbook, Flavors of al-Andalus, has many recipes attributed to the Sephardic Jews of Moorish Spain.


Donna Gelb, food writer and recipe developer, is a native New Yorker. Her interest in food began as a teenager growing up in Spain, Switzerland, and England. She trained in New York at Peter Kump’s New York Cooking School, which led to regular recipe testing for The New York Times Magazine, and a column in The New York Daily News.  She collaborated with Francis Mallmann and Peter Kaminsky on the award-winning cookbook Seven Fires: Grilling the Argentine Way (Artisan 2009); Mallmann on Fire (Artisan 2014), and Green Fire (Artisan 2022.), and with Ilene Rosen on Saladish (Artisan 2019) which won the James Beard Cookbook Award for Vegetable-Focused Cooking. An active member of the Culinary Historians of New York since 2003, she has served on the board since 2008.

Here is the recipe for Vegetable Paella that Donna noted in her blurb. I like this recipe because it’s so adaptable—suitable for vegetarian guests and, with sides of sautéd shrimp, clams, and chicken legs, for those who are not vegetarian as well. 


Vegetable Paella
Arroz de Verduras

The Arabs introduced the cultivation of rice in Spain, but did they invent paella? Perhaps they invented the precursor of paella. We know that most rice dishes of that era before modern milling were more like porridge, sweet or savory, made with pounded grains. A few were made with whole grains combined with meat and vegetables.

By strict Valencian terms, this recipe does not qualify as paella. It is simply un arroz, a rice dish. It’s best with seasonal vegetables, but good with frozen vegetables, too. The favas and peas don’t need as long to cook as the artichokes, so add them when the rice is half-cooked.

In Spanish homes, vegetable paella might have bits of fish such as bacalao (salt cod), a handful of clams, pieces of squid, or a few shrimp added for flavor. If you are not vegetarian, you could use chicken or fish stock instead of vegetable. If you are using a well-seasoned stock, you may not need salt, but if using water, add about 1½ teaspoons salt.

A picada sauce of ground almonds, garlic, and parsley, spooned on the finished rice, adds a burst of flavor. 

Makes 4 servings

For the paella:
¼ cup olive oil
½ cup finely chopped onion
1 small head garlic, top ½ inch sliced off
2 (4-ounce) artichokes
¼ cup dry white wine
¼ teaspoon crushed saffron threads
¼ cup hot water
4½ cups vegetable stock or water
1 bay leaf
1½ cups medium-grain rice
Fine salt to taste
¼ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1 cup shelled fava beans
1 cup shelled peas
Lemon slices, for serving

For the picada topping:
¼ cup fresh parsley leaves
A few fresh mint leaves (optional)
¼ cup toasted almonds
¼ teaspoon coarse salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
¼ teaspoon grated lemon peel

To make the paella, heat the oil in a paella pan or large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic head to the pan and fry until the onion is softened and beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Snap off the outer leaves from the artichokes, pare the stems, and cut the artichokes in half. Add the artichokes to the pan, cut sides down. Add the wine.

Place the saffron in a small cup and add the hot water. Let it infuse for 5 minutes. Add the saffron water, 3 cups of the stock, and the bay leaf to the pan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then stir in the rice. Add fine salt to taste and the pepper. Cook for 10 minutes, turning the artichokes and head of garlic occasionally. 

Add the fava beans and peas. Add another 1 cup stock. Stir once to mix, then do not stir the rice again. Cook until the rice is al dente, 8 to 10 minutes more, adding the remaining ¼ cup stock if the pan looks dry. Remove the pan from the heat. Remove the head of garlic and reserve. Discard the bay leaf. Cover the pan with aluminum foil or a kitchen towel. Let the rice sit for 5 to 10 minutes while preparing the picada topping.

Extract 4 cloves from the head of cooked garlic. Place them in a mortar or mini food processor with the parsley, mint (if using), almonds, and coarse salt. Grind to a paste. Add the oil and grated lemon peel and process well. Thin the paste with 2 to 3 tablespoons water. 

To serve, spoon some of the picada topping on top of the rice and vegetables. Serve the remainder in a small bowl. Garnish the rice with lemon slices.

Vegetable Paella with optional shrimp.

More with Donna Gelb:
Saladadish, a prize-winning book of salads.





***   ***   ***

FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS, The Culinary Legacy of Spain, published by Hippocrene Books, is available from your favorite bookseller. For more about what’s in the book, see Meatballs with Backstory

This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times. Dishes from this era include exotic spices such as saffron, the use of fruits and almonds with savory dishes, and honeyed sweets and pastries. The flavors of al-Andalus live on in modern Spanish cooking and are what makes Spain’s cuisine distinctive from the rest of Europe. (Hippocrene Books)    $39.95 hardcover.

 Order on IndiePubs

Use PROMO CODE HIPPOCRENE40 for 40% off on all Hippocrene titles at IndiePubs online bookstore.

***


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Saturday, August 9, 2025

FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS PUBLISHES THIS WEEK!

 
  Pictured are albóndigas, meatballs with almond-saffron sauce, one of the tapas from Flavors of al-Andalus.

Have a look at “Tapas Party with the Flavors of al-Andalus,” a short video showing a few of the recipes from my new cookbook, FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS, THE CULINARY LEGACY OF SPAIN (Hippocrene Books). The book will be officially released August 12.




Tapas party with the flavors of al-Andalus       (Video by Daniel Searl)

These are tasty dishes from the traditional Spanish kitchen, some of them—like that gorgeous almond-saffron sauce with the meatballs—with a touch of the exotic. This is food that can trace its roots to al-Andalus, Moorish Spain. 



The tapas party pictured in the video illustrates a really useful section of the book, Suggested Menus. These include recipes for a Tapas Party, for Brunch, a Summer Barbecue, several Family Dinners (including one vegetarian), Sunday Lunch, a Dinner Party, and both spring and fall/winter Holiday Meals. Ideas to help you enjoy the wide selection of foods with al-Andalus flavor at your own table.

Flavors of al-Andalus, The Culinary Legacy of Spain will be released this week (August 12). When you receive your copy (see below for where to order), if you would like to tell me what you think of the book or show me a photo of you cooking from Flavors of al-Andalus, leave me a comment on the blog or tag me on Facebook (@Janet Mendel) or on Instagram (@mykitcheninspain). 

If you would like to feature Flavors of al-Andalus on your blog, Substack, Instagram page, or newspaper-magazine column, contact pgress@hippocrenebooks.com  to receive a digital review copy.

Meatballs in Almond Sauce
Albóndigas en Salsa de Almendras

Here’s the recipe from Flavors of al-Andalus for those meatballs. Most of the recipes in the book have headnotes that tell a little about their background as well as cooking and serving suggestions 



The meatballs served in Spanish tapas bars can trace their ancestry straight back to 13th century al-Andalus. Meatballs then were not so different from those of today. Cinnamon was added then, whereas today home cooks use freshly grated nutmeg. They were sauced with a tangy mixture that included vinegar—today we would use tomatoes. Almonds were ground up in the sauce or else sprinkled on top of the finished dish much like the current version. 

Meatballs now are usually made with a combination of ground veal and pork but, as Muslims and Jews did not consume pork, this recipe instead calls for lamb, beef, chicken or a combination. 

It’s customary to flour and brown the meatballs before finishing them in the sauce. But if you prefer, you can skip the flour and brown the meatballs in a hot (400ºF) oven or simply poach them in simmering water. If cooking for a crowd, the recipes for the sauce and meatballs can easily be doubled. They can be made in advance, stored separately in the refrigerator, then heated together before serving. 

For those who do not combine meat and milk, use unsweetened almond milk or stock to soak the bread. Roll the meatballs as large or small as you like. 

Makes about 30 (1 ¼ inch-) meatballs, serving 6 

For the almond sauce:
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/3 cup blanched and skinned almonds
3 cloves garlic, peeled
1 slice bread, crusts removed
½ teaspoon saffron
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Pinch ground cloves
½ cup white wine
1 ½ cups chicken stock
½ teaspoon salt

Heat the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the almonds, garlics, and bread and fry until golden about 1 minutes. Set aside a few of the almonds to garnish the finished dish. Skim out the rest of the almonds, garlics, and bread.  Leave the oil in the skillet.

Crush the saffron in a mortar or small bowl. Add the pepper, cloves, and ¼ cup hot water. Let the saffron infuse for 10 minutes. 

Place the fried almonds, garlic, and bread in a blender. Add the wine and spices in hot water. Blend the mixture to make a smooth paste. Pour the almond mixture into the oil in the skillet. Stir in the stock and salt. Simmer the sauce over medium-low heat, stirring, until it is smooth and thickened, about 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and cover to keep warm.

For the meatballs:
2 slices stale bread or 1/3 cup fine dry bread crumbs
1/3 cup milk 
1 large egg
1 tablespoon olive oil + more for frying
1 clove minced garlic
1/8 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Pinch ground coriander
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley + additional for garnish
1 teaspoon salt
1 ¼ pounds ground lamb, beef, and/or chicken
Flour for dredging 

Place the bread in a bowl and add the milk. Allow to soak 5 minutes.

In a large bowl, beat the egg with the oil. Add the softened bread and mash it together with the egg. Add the garlic, nutmeg, pepper, coriander, parsley, and salt. Add the meat. Use a wooden paddle, fork, or hands to mix the meat with the bread and egg. 

Spread a shallow pan with flour. Shape the meat into 1¼-inch balls. If the meat seems sticky, coat hands lightly with oil. Drop the meatballs as they are made into the flour. When all the balls are shaped, shake the pan to roll the meatballs in the flour, coating them on all sides.

Heat enough oil to cover the bottom of a skillet. Working in batches so as not to crowd the pan, add the meatballs and dry until they are browned on all sides, about 10 minutes, adding additional oil as needed. The meatballs do not need to thoroughly cook as they will finish cooking in the sauce. Remove them as they are browned. 

Reheat the almond sauce and add the browned meatballs. Cook until they are hot and cooked through, about 10 minutes. Serve garnished with chopped parsley.

***   ***   ***

FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS, The Culinary Legacy of Spain, published by Hippocrene Books, is available from your favorite bookseller. For more about what’s in the book, see Meatballs with Backstory. Read advance reviews at Advance Praise for Flavors of al-Andalus

This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times. Dishes from this era include exotic spices such as saffron, the use of fruits and almonds with savory dishes, and honeyed sweets and pastries. The flavors of al-Andalus live on in modern Spanish cooking and are what makes Spain’s cuisine distinctive from the rest of Europe. (Hippocrene Books)

$39.95 hardcover.

 Order on IndiePubs

***


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Saturday, August 2, 2025

CHILLING OUT

 
Cold and sweet: horchata-mango ice cream.

August. Are you keeping cool? Getting your full ration of gazpacho? How about ice cream? I’ve got an ice cream recipe that’s a little different—made with a Spanish drink called horchata instead of with dairy milk or cream.


Horchata is a sweet, milky, icy drink famous in València, but found all over Spain. Horchata in Spain is made with chufas, tiger nuts, also called earth-nuts. Chufas are not actually nuts, but the tubers of a kind of sedge (Cyperus esculentus), a plant introduced to the València region by the Moors. 
Chufas/tiger nuts

Chufas grow underground. After digging, the tubers are washed then dried. The desiccated nuts, a little larger than almonds, are hard and dark brown. They taste like a combination of almonds and coconut. To make horchata, the chufas are first rehydrated by soaking in water. They are then mixed with fresh water, finely ground, and forced through a fine sieve. Mixed with sugar and flavored with lemon and cinnamon, the extract becomes horchata.    

The word horchata (Catalan orxata or orxata de xufas) derives from the Latin hordeata, a drink made of crushed barley. Over the centuries the drink was adapted, made variously with tiger nuts, almonds (the French “orgeat”), or rice (as in Mexico). 

Horchata is best from a horchatería, especially in València, where the drink is freshly made. But you can buy prepared horchata in cartons in almost any supermarket in Spain. In the US, you can order horchata online from Spanish import stores, such as Tienda.com

I seldom buy horchata because it’s loaded with sugar. But this year I discovered a version made with edulcorantes, artificial sweeteners, so I gave it a try. Served very cold, it is very refreshing on a hot afternoon. 

Horchata, either with sugar or sweetener, makes an excellent base for lactose-free ice cream. I'm thinking it would also be good in a piña colada, substituting horchata for the coconut cream and mango juice for the pineapple juice.

No ice cream maker necessary, the horchata-mango mixture is still-frozen, then whipped. This scooped version is somewhat grainy with ice crystals. The cream in the small cups, below, has added rum and Greek yogurt and is somewhat creamier and not as icy.

After beating smooth, the cream can be frozen in individual cups. Easier because you can soften only as many as you plan to serve.

Frozen fruit horchata hits the spot on a hot afternoon in August.


Tiger Nut Ice Cream
Helado de Horchata

My ice cream contains mango puree. Any pureed fruit (1 ½ cups)  could be used—strawberries, peaches, figs-- If the fruit puree is very tart you may wish to add sugar or sweetener to the already-sweetened horchata. Cornstarch adds creaminess to the frozen horchata but does require cooking then cooling. Adding alcohol keeps the ice cream from freezing hard (although 1 tablespoon makes little difference). Adding cream or Greek yogurt makes a richer cream—although it is no longer lactose-free. 

Use an ice cream freezer if you have one. Otherwise, remove the partially frozen cream from the freezer and whip it smooth before returning to freeze hard. 

You could substitute almond milk, either sweetened or unsweetened (add sugar to taste) or a combination of almond milk and (canned) sweetened cream of coconut.

Serves 4 to 6.

2 cups horchata
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 slice lemon
1 ½ pounds mangos (to make 1 ½ cups pulp)
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Sugar or sweetener (optional)
1 tablespoon dark rum or oloroso Sherry (optional)
½ cup heavy cream or Greek yogurt (optional)

Place ½ cup of the horchata in a small bowl. Stir the cornstarch into it until smooth. Place the remaining 1 ½ cups horchata in a saucepan with the slice of lemon. Heat the horchata-lemon until it begins to steam. Whisk in the cornstarch mixture and continue stirring until the mixture comes to a boil. Reduce heat and cook 1 minute. Skim out and discard the lemon slice. Let the horchata cool 10 minutes.

Peel the mangos and discard pits. Cut the flesh into chunks and place in a blender or food processor with the lemon juice. Blend until pureed. Add the cooled horchata and blend until smooth. Taste the mixture and add sugar or sweetener if desired. 

Place the mango-horchata mixture in a bowl (preferably metal for faster freezing) and cover with plastic film pressed onto the surface. Chill. Place the bowl in the freezer until partially frozen, 2 to 4 hours. 

Beat the mixture again (blender or food processor) until smooth. If desired beat in rum and cream. Return the bowl to freezer to freeze solid. (For an even smoother ice cream, remove it before frozen hard and beat again until smooth.) Or, if preferred, pour the cream into 6 (1/2-cup) glasses, place them on a tray and freeze.

Soften the ice cream before scooping.  

More about horchata and chufas here (and another summertime cooler, leche merengada).


***   ***   ***

FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS, The Culinary Legacy of Spain, published by Hippocrene Books, is now available from your favorite bookseller. For more about what’s in the book, see Meatballs with Backstory. See advance reviews at Advance Praise for Flavors of al-Andalus

This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times. Dishes from this era include exotic spices such as saffron, the use of fruits and almonds with savory dishes, and honeyed sweets and pastries. The flavors of al-Andalus live on in modern Spanish cooking and are what makes Spain’s cuisine distinctive from the rest of Europe. (Hippocrene Books)

$39.95 hardcover.

 Order on IndiePubs

***

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