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| Cold and sweet: horchata-mango ice cream. |
August. Are you keeping cool? Getting your full ration of gazpacho? How about ice cream? I’ve got an ice cream recipe that’s a little different—made with a Spanish drink called horchata instead of with dairy milk or cream.
Horchata is a sweet, milky, icy drink famous in València, but found all over Spain. Horchata in Spain is made with chufas, tiger nuts, also called earth-nuts. Chufas are not actually nuts, but the tubers of a kind of sedge (Cyperus esculentus), a plant introduced to the València region by the Moors.
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| Chufas/tiger nuts |
Chufas grow underground. After digging, the tubers are washed then dried. The desiccated nuts, a little larger than almonds, are hard and dark brown. They taste like a combination of almonds and coconut. To make horchata, the chufas are first rehydrated by soaking in water. They are then mixed with fresh water, finely ground, and forced through a fine sieve. Mixed with sugar and flavored with lemon and cinnamon, the extract becomes horchata.
The word horchata (Catalan orxata or orxata de xufas) derives from the Latin hordeata, a drink made of crushed barley. Over the centuries the drink was adapted, made variously with tiger nuts, almonds (the French “orgeat”), or rice (as in Mexico).
Horchata is best from a horchatería, especially in València, where the drink is freshly made. But you can buy prepared horchata in cartons in almost any supermarket in Spain. In the US, you can order horchata online from Spanish import stores, such as Tienda.com.
I seldom buy horchata because it’s loaded with sugar. But this year I discovered a version made with edulcorantes, artificial sweeteners, so I gave it a try. Served very cold, it is very refreshing on a hot afternoon.
Horchata, either with sugar or sweetener, makes an excellent base for lactose-free ice cream. I'm thinking it would also be good in a piña colada, substituting horchata for the coconut cream and mango juice for the pineapple juice.
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| No ice cream maker necessary, the horchata-mango mixture is still-frozen, then whipped. This scooped version is somewhat grainy with ice crystals. The cream in the small cups, below, has added rum and Greek yogurt and is somewhat creamier and not as icy. |
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| After beating smooth, the cream can be frozen in individual cups. Easier because you can soften only as many as you plan to serve. |
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| Frozen fruit horchata hits the spot on a hot afternoon in August. |
Tiger Nut Ice Cream
Helado de Horchata
My ice cream contains mango puree. Any pureed fruit (1 ½ cups) could be used—strawberries, peaches, figs-- If the fruit puree is very tart you may wish to add sugar or sweetener to the already-sweetened horchata. Cornstarch adds creaminess to the frozen horchata but does require cooking then cooling. Adding alcohol keeps the ice cream from freezing hard (although 1 tablespoon makes little difference). Adding cream or Greek yogurt makes a richer cream—although it is no longer lactose-free.
Use an ice cream freezer if you have one. Otherwise, remove the partially frozen cream from the freezer and whip it smooth before returning to freeze hard.
You could substitute almond milk, either sweetened or unsweetened (add sugar to taste) or a combination of almond milk and (canned) sweetened cream of coconut.
Serves 4 to 6.
2 cups horchata
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 slice lemon
1 ½ pounds mangos (to make 1 ½ cups pulp)
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Sugar or sweetener (optional)
1 tablespoon dark rum or oloroso Sherry (optional)
½ cup heavy cream or Greek yogurt (optional)
Place ½ cup of the horchata in a small bowl. Stir the cornstarch into it until smooth. Place the remaining 1 ½ cups horchata in a saucepan with the slice of lemon. Heat the horchata-lemon until it begins to steam. Whisk in the cornstarch mixture and continue stirring until the mixture comes to a boil. Reduce heat and cook 1 minute. Skim out and discard the lemon slice. Let the horchata cool 10 minutes.
Peel the mangos and discard pits. Cut the flesh into chunks and place in a blender or food processor with the lemon juice. Blend until pureed. Add the cooled horchata and blend until smooth. Taste the mixture and add sugar or sweetener if desired.
Place the mango-horchata mixture in a bowl (preferably metal for faster freezing) and cover with plastic film pressed onto the surface. Chill. Place the bowl in the freezer until partially frozen, 2 to 4 hours.
Beat the mixture again (blender or food processor) until smooth. If desired beat in rum and cream. Return the bowl to freezer to freeze solid. (For an even smoother ice cream, remove it before frozen hard and beat again until smooth.) Or, if preferred, pour the cream into 6 (1/2-cup) glasses, place them on a tray and freeze.
Soften the ice cream before scooping.
More about horchata and chufas here (and another summertime cooler, leche merengada).
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This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking.
Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times. Dishes from this era include exotic spices such as saffron, the use of fruits and almonds with savory dishes, and honeyed sweets and pastries. The flavors of al-Andalus live on in modern Spanish cooking and are what makes Spain’s cuisine distinctive from the rest of Europe. (Hippocrene Books)
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