THE CONTROVERSIAL SUBJECT OF ANCHOVIES

 

Fresh anchovies, known as boquerones or bocartes, are a sustainable fish,  packed with healthful nutrients.

The “anchovy controversy” was a trending topic on a Facebook group I follow. It appeared shortly after a New York Times Food article “Anchovies Are Always a Good Idea” by Christopher Beckman. “Anchovies are notoriously polarizing,” he wrote.

The umami whammy of briny, oily cured anchovies might be overpowering on their own, especially for a young child, but that’s no reason to ban the little fish for evermore. The same kid might adore them fresh, crisply fried. Boquerones fritos are as addictive as patatas fritas. And the grownup child surely would appreciate the sophisticated taste of marinated raw anchovies. So, you see, the controversy may simply be “what type of anchovy do you prefer?”

Anchoas, anchovies in olive oil.

In Spain the same fish has three different names, depending how it is prepared. In the north, on the Cantabrian coasts of Asturias and Cantabra, fresh anchovies are known as bocartes. On the Mediterranean coast, the name boquerones is used for both fresh ones and "white anchovies," those marinated raw in vinegar.

Raw anchovies in vinegar marinade.

Anchoa means anchovy in conserve, those that, whole or filleted, have been salted and packed in oil. (These, actually, are a semi-conserva and, although canned, must be refrigerated.) To confuse the issue, the Basques use “anchoa” to mean fresh ones. My Basque cookbook from 1970, Manual de Cocina Economica Vasca by José Castillo, has ten recipes for fresh anchoas, including one for sautéing fresh anchovy fillets al ajillo, in olive oil with sliced garlic and guindilla chile.

Here are some of my favorite ways to prepare anchovies, starting with pintxo matrimonio, the marriage of a salty cured anchovy with a tangy marinated one. On toast, they come together in wedded bliss. (The recipe for Pintxo Matrimonio with Parsley Oil is below.)

Quickly assembled: toasts with salty cured anchovy fillets and white ones that have been marinated raw in vinegar. Top them with parsley oil  

A favorite in tapa bars in Andalusia: fresh, raw anchovies are filleted, marinated in vinegar and dressed with olive oil, garlic, and chopped parsley. They are very easy to prepare, but also now can be purchased in vacuum-packs already marinated, ready to serve. Use these to make the matrimonio with canned anchovies, pictured above.

Recipe: Marinated Fresh Anchovies (Boquerones en Vinagre).

Gilda pintxo with anchovies.

The Gilda is a famous pintxo in San Sebastian. It consists of olives, anchovies, and pickled green chiles (guindillas, similar to Italian peperoncini) on toothpicks. The tapa was supposedly invented in the early 1950s to immortalize Rita Hayworth in the film of the same name--Hayworth being "hot," "salty," and "smooth."

For the Gilda, spear olives anchovies, and pickled peppers on cocktail picks. 

Anchovy adds punch to tuna tartare.

Crank up the umami with salty canned anchovies on a sandwich, on pizza, Here they top classic tuna tartare. Best are those canned in olive oil from the Cantabrico. 

Recipe: Tuna Tartare with Anchovies. 

Steak sauce with anchovies.

Anchovies are among the ingredients in classic steak sauce and Worcestershire sauce. Here's another steak sauce, easy to make with canned anchovies and green chile. It's also delicious as a topping for baked potato or cooked vegetables.

Recipe: Steak Sauce with Anchovies and Green Chiles.

Summer's tomatoes, even better with anchovy dressing.

In this dressing for sliced tomatoes, the chopped anchovies almost disappear, but add an inimitable punch. The dressing is also good on grilled steak.

Recipe: Tomatoes with Anchovy Dressing.  

Tortica is a cornmeal flatbread topped with anchovy.

Sometimes called Almería "pizza", these torticas are flatbreads made with cornmeal, topped with those quintessential Mediterranean ingredients, fresh anchovies, tomatoes, and peppers. 

Recipe: Almería Flatbreads with Fresh Anchovies (Torticas).

Fried, then in orange marinade.

Escabeche is an ancient way of preserving fish. Made with fresh anchovies, they are first fried and placed in a sour orange marinade.

Recipe: Fresh Anchovies in Bitter Orange Escabeche.

Fresh anchovies are part of a Málaga-style mixed fish fry.

Mediterranean fishing ports bring in a fresh anchovies every bit as fine as those from northern waters. One of the favorite ways of preparing them is simply floured and fried in the region's superb extra virgin olive oil.

Recipe: Costa del Sol Mixed Fish Fry with Fresh Anchovies (Pesca'ito Frito).

Fresh anchovies with lemon are fried.

These fresh anchovies are filleted and marinated in lemon juice with garlic and parsley before frying.

Recipe: Lemon Marinated Fried Fresh Anchovies (Boquerones al Limón).

Marriage of Anchovies

Pinxto Matrimonio

Paired: salty anchovy and vinegary anchovy on toasts.

1 (2-ounce) can anchovies in olive oil

1 ( 2.8-ounce) packet boquerones en vinagre (marinated fresh anchovies)

6-8 toasts or rusks

¼ cup grated tomato pulp

Parsley olive oil (recipe follows)

Spread tomato pulp on the toasts. Top each one with a fillets of anchovy and boquerones. Spoon a line of parsley oil on top. 

Parsley Olive Oil

Aceite de Oliva con Perejil

The parsley oil is a nice dressing for cooked vegetables as well as for the anchovy toasts. Don’t add salt if using with the already-salty anchovies. Blanching the parsley in boiling water helps to keep the fresh green color. Be sure to refresh it in ice water. 

¼ bunch parsley with stems (¼ cup)

Boiling water

Ice water

1 clove garlic

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

Salt (optional)

Hold the bunch of parsley by the stems and dunk the leaves into boiling water for 5 seconds. Remove and plunge the parsley into ice water. Drain and discard stems. Pat the leaves dry. Place them in a blender with the garlic and oil. Blend to make a smooth, green cream. Add salt if desired. Keeps in a cool place in a tightly-covered jar.