IRRESISTIBLE GRILLED OCTOPUS

 It was the aroma, not of sardines but of octopus, that grabbed me. I had already enjoyed  lashings of espetones, sardines and sea bass grilled on skewers at a chiringuito by the sea. Strolling along the beach path after lunch, at the next beach shack, I spotted the octopus, whole ones, speared on sticks stuck in the sand and searing by the fire. The smell was enticing, irresistible. I’ve been dreaming about octopus ever since.

Grilled octopus, skin a little charred, is irresistible.

I occasionally cook octopus (links to several recipes are below). It’s a bit of a process, but pretty straightforward once you conquer any initial queasiness about this slippery cephalopod. But, it was finding packaged cooked octopus at the supermarket that inspired me to prepare grilled octopus at home.

Yes, you have to cook the octopus before grilling. Grilling does not cook the octopus, it provides “value added.” It takes about three minutes and adds the distinctive flavors of seared flesh and smoke. Starting with pre-cooked octopus, it’s quick and easy. So much so that no recipe is needed, just a little orientation.

If you buy fresh, uncooked octopus, it must first be tenderized by freezing it for three days (never mind beating it). Thaw, then cook it in simmering water for 10 to 15 minutes per pound or until tender when tested with a skewer. Discard viscera from inside the head and the mouth beak. Do not remove the skin. (Complete instructions are here.)

Small octopus (1-pound or less) can be grilled whole. Large ones need to be dismembered—cut off each tentacle (it’s actually an “arm” or, in Spanish, a “pata.”) to be grilled separately and cut the head into several strips. Keep the purplish skin with the suckers intact, if possible. The skin helps to keep the octopus juicy.

Cooked, shrink-wrapped octopus tentacles.

The cooked octopus I purchased was already divided into tentacles. They only needed washing and patting dry. 

If you plan to grill the octopus over coals, brush the pieces with oil. If grilling on a plancha or in a skillet, heat the plancha, then brush oil on the grill, not the octopus.  

Heat the grill very hot, so the octopus quickly sears and does not release a lot of juice. Once one side is browned, use tongs to turn it. 

How to serve? Grilled octopus is amazing straight off the grill, with the skin just a little crispy. It can be served as finger food—just pick up a tentacle with fingers—or cut into bite-size pieces. 

In Galicia (northwest Spain), octopus is invariably served with a simple ajada of coarse salt, olive oil and pimentón (paprika). In Andalusia (southern Spain), it is accompanied by aliño, a dressing of chopped garlic, parsley, olive oil and lemon. I made a sauce by combining mayonnaise with both hot and sweet pimentón. 

In Galicia, octopus is usually paired with cachelos, boiled potatoes, dressed with the same oil and pimentón as the octopus. Another version calls for smooth mashed potatoes. I served the octopus with “smashed” potatoes. 

Grilled octopus tentacles accompanied by smashed potatoes and a spicy pimentón mayonnaise. Crisp Albariño wine from Galicia is the perfect match.

Slather the sauce on the octopus and the potatoes.

Cut grilled octopus in bite-sized pieces to serve as tapas.

Toss chopped grilled octopus in a salad with tomatoes, green peppers, onions and potatoes. (Good idea for leftovers.) Add a vinaigrette of olive oil, lemon juice and Dijon mustard.

Grilled Octopus

Pulpo a la Parilla

Serves 4.

1 pound cooked octopus (about 6 tentacles)

Olive oil

Flaky salt

Sauce to serve (recipe follows)

Grilling in cast-iron skillet. 

Heat coals, plancha or skillet very hot. Oil either the octopus or the plancha. Lay the tentacles on the grill. Sear them until lightly browned on one side, about 1 minute. Use tongs to turn the pieces and grill the other side, about 1 minute.

Remove the tentacles with tongs. Sprinkle with flaky salt and drizzle with additional olive oil. Either serve the octopus immediately or allow it to cool, then use kitchen shears to cut into pieces. Serve accompanied by sauce.

Mayonnaise-Spicy Pimentón Sauce

Mojo Picón con Mayonesa

This sauce is a blend of mojo picón, a spicy chile sauce, and mayonnaise. Use regular sweet pimentón (paprika), not smoked, plus one or two spoonfuls of smoked spicy-hot pimentón. If pimentón picante is not available, use fresh red chile or cayenne to taste. The mojo picón is usually thinned with water. In this version, bottled mayonnaise gives it a smooth, creamy texture. It’s delicious with potatoes and other vegetables as well as the octopus.

4 cloves garlic

1 small shallot, coarsely chopped

3 tablespoons sweet pimentón (not smoked)

2 teaspoons hot smoked pimentón (picante)

½ teaspoon cumin

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons wine vinegar

½ cup mayonnaise

Salt to taste

In a mini food processor, mince the garlic and shallot. Add the two kinds of pimentón, cumin, oil and vinegar and process until smooth. Add the mayonnaise and process again to mix well. Add salt to taste (about ½ teaspoon). 

If not using immediately, store the sauce, covered, in the refrigerator.

More recipes with octopus:

Octopus with Tomato Sauce.

Galician Octopus and Potatoes.

Octopus Salad.

Garlic-Parsley Sauce for Grilled Foods (Aliño)

A chiringuito beach lunch.