Saturday, March 1, 2025

CARNAVAL! LARD PASTRIES TO CELEBRATE

 Between the downpours of rain, Carnaval is in full swing! Folks are in the streets with zany costumes, bawdy songs, drum banging, and cavorting. It’s a week-long crazy-fest that starts on jueves lardero, or “fatty Thursday,” the last Thursday before Lent begins (this coming Wednesday). Cádiz and the Canary Islands stage the most famous Carnavales in Spain, but they are marked with appropriate frivolities in every part of the country.


Carnaval is also an occasion for gluttony before the abstinence of Lent. Many kinds of sweets, especially sugared fritters, are typical (see a list at the end of this post). Lent marks the end of the hog-slaughtering season, so everything porky—especially sausage—is consumed with gusto.

I just happened to have a pound of lard in the freezer, so I’m making tortas de manteca, yeast pastries with lard, that are typical of La Mancha. 

Lard pastries are crisp when freshly baked with a soft interior crumb.

The pastry disks are not sweet but are liberally sprinkled with sugar.


Crispy Lard Pastries, La Mancha Style
Tortas de Manteca Manchega

Yeast. If you are using active dry yeast packaged in small envelopes, you will need approximately one envelope plus ½ teaspoon of a second envelope to make 3 teaspoons called for in the recipe. 

Lard. Use non-hydrogenated, white leaf lard, sometimes called “baker’s lard.” If you can get fresh lard from a butcher, chop it finely, heat it until melted and strain it. 

The pastries are perfect with breakfast coffee.
Bread flour is best for these pastries, but all-purpose flour could be used instead. The dough can be prepared in a mixer with a bread hook.

The crispy cookies are not sweet. They contain only a spoonful of sugar to activate the yeast. Sprinkle them generously with sugar before baking. If you prefer a savory cracker, sprinkle with coarse salt, pepper, and sesame seeds instead of sugar. If you happen to have chicharrones, pork-skin cracklings, sprinkle them on top of the disks. 

When freshly baked these pastries have a slightly crispy exterior and a soft crumb. Heat them on a grill pan or sandwich grill to restore crispness. They freeze well. 

Serve the tortas for breakfast or snack time with coffee or tea. The savory version goes nicely with cheese or salchichón. 


Lard for baking.
Makes 8 (6-inch) pastries.

1 cup very warm water
1 teaspoon sugar + additional for baking
3 teaspoons active dry yeast
3 ¾ + ¼ cups bread flour
½ teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon aniseed (optional)
1 cup leaf lard, softened

Combine the water, 1 teaspoon of sugar and yeast in a small bowl. Allow to stand 5 minutes until the yeast begins to bubble.

Place 2 cups of the flour in a large bowl Make a well in the center and pour in the yeast water. Mix with a wooden spoon to combine the flour with the water. Cover the bowl and let stand until the mixture is spongy and bubbly, 30 minutes.

Use a wooden spoon or hands to mix in the remaining 1 ¾ cups flour, the salt and aniseed, if using. Turn the dough out onto a work surface and knead it 5 minutes or more. It will be stiff and very dry, but gradually become more malleable. Shape the dough into a ball, cover with a cloth or bowl and let it rest 30 minutes.

Spread lard on dough.
Pat the dough out into a circle. Spread 2 tablespoons of the lard on it. Fold the dough over on itself and knead the lard into the dough. Sprinkle a little of the reserved ¼ cup of flour on the work surface. Pat the dough out and again spread lard on it. Knead the lard into the dough. Continue until all the lard and flour are used. Stretch the dough and gather it into a compact ball. Place in a lightly greased bowl, cover with a damp cloth and set in a warm, draft-free place to rise until doubled in size, about 2 hours.

Pat dough into disks.

Line 2 baking sheets with baking parchment. Turn the dough out onto a work surface and press it down. Divide into 8 equal-sized pieces and roll them into balls. Pat one of the balls into a disk. Fold the top edge into the center, the bottom edge to the center, the sides to the center and gather into a ball. Pat the ball into a disk and place it on the baking sheet. Use fingers to stretch the dough into a circle or oval approximately 6 inches in diameter. Press the dough firmly with the fingertips to make indentations. 
Sprinkle with sugar.

When all the balls of dough have been shaped, sprinkle 1 to 2 teaspoons sugar on each. Cover the sheets with plastic film or kitchen towels and let them set 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 400ºF. Place sheets on oven racks and lower oven temperature to 375ºF. Bake 10 minutes. Change position of the baking sheets. Bake until the cookies are golden on top, 15 to 20 minutes longer.

Cool the pastries on racks. 




More foods for Carnavales:




Buns with Hard-Boiled Eggs (Monas) These buns appears for Carnaval in some towns and in others are typical for Easter.

Bread Pudding with Fruits and Nuts. A typical pudding in Galicia for Entroido, Carnaval week, as well as for other holidays.



Saturday, February 22, 2025

FEBRUARY: EATING THE “WHOLE 28”

 Did you have a vegan January or no-alcohol  month? Maybe you dieted and lost 10 pounds. For me, January zoomed by with dinner guests and plenty imbibing. Here it is February, a slow month, so I’ve signed on for the Whole 30 diet. It’s a 30-day elimination diet but, as February is the shortest month, I’m doing 28 days! 


Elimination means not eating/drinking any of these categories of foods: No sugar (that’s easy—I don’t use sugar or honey anyway) and no sugar substitutes; no dairy; no grains or grain look-alikes (the list includes wheat, oats, quinoa, rice, corn); no legumes—beans, lentils, chickpeas, soy products, peanuts—(green beans and peas are exceptions); no baked goods, pasta, pancakes (not even if made with alternative flour or vegetables), chips nor fries (unless you make them at home); no alcohol, not even in cooking. And no weighing-in until 30 days are up. 

The “whole” signifies a whole month but it also means wholesome foods. No processed stuff, no labels with dozens of ingredients. 

Why? Eliminating foods can help you figure out what ails you by identifying food sensitivities. At the end of the 30-day elimination period, you reintroduce one type of food at a time and pay attention to whether any symptoms return. 

Is it easy? The regimen requires attention. Meal planning is rigorous with so many foods eliminated. But, I love a challenge when it comes to food. Divising ways to use the acceptable foods—fruits, vegetables, meat, poultry, seafood, eggs, nuts, and olive oil—has been engrossing. I’ll share with you some of the dishes I’ve enjoyed.

These recipes are perfectly suitable for family members who are not on the diet. I tell them to cook their own rice or pasta to accompany my main dish.

Breakfast timbale with zucchini, spinach, eggs.


Breakfast, my biggest stumbling block. Without my usual non-fat yogurt with fruit, I don’t know what to eat in the morning. Eggs are allowed on the diet, but I sure don’t want to eat eggs before heading out for aerobics. Besides, if you eat eggs for breakfast, you can’t really eat them for lunch or snack as well. 

I made a pan of my favorite zucchini-spinach timbale. A slice of timbale is perfect for breakfast or segundo desayuno—a mid-morning snack. I make the timbale with almond milk instead of dairy milk and omit the cheese. 

Sauté a chopped zucchini, scallions, and spinach in olive oil. Beat 6 eggs with 1 cup almond milk. Season with salt, pepper, and chopped herbs. Bake in an oiled baking dish until eggs are set.

 
Chicken-zoodle soup for lunch.

Lunch. February is soup month, so lunch is easy: chicken-zoodle soup (pictured above), curried squash soup with coconut milk, fish and vegetable chowder, minestrone with green beans instead of cannellini, alioli instead of cheese. Zoodles are zucchini ribbons microwaved until crisp tender then added to any favorite chicken soup. For the zoodles, use a vegetable peeler to cut thin slices, then a knife to cut them into noodles of any width.  By the way, the technique works with potatoes and squash too. Pick the longest potato you can find.

Cauliflower fritters with mayo.
Snacks. I miss cheese so much! And I crave crispy crackers to put the cheese on. Nuts of all kinds somewhat satisfy the craving. I make guacamole to dip with endive leaves; black olive spread (recipe below) to scoop with red pepper strips, and homemade olive oil mayonnaise to go with cauliflower fritters.

Black olive spread.

I looked at the label on my preferred mayonnaise: soy oil, vinegar, egg plus sugar, starch, coloring agent, and antioxidant. That's why I made it homemade--egg, extra virgin olive oil, Sherry vinegar. 

To make 20 cauliflower fritters, combine 1/2 cup mashed potato and 1 cup cauliflower "rice" (see below for how to make the rice) with 2 tablespoons chopped scallions, 1/4 teaspoon each of cumin and hot pimentón, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon baking powder, and 2 tablespoons almond flour. Chill the mixture. Scoop up by teaspoons and drop in hot oil. Fry until browned.


Happy hour. Much of eating is habit: at 7:45, while dinner is cooking, I pour a glass of wine and sit down to watch a cooking show on TV. No wine this month! Instead I enjoy grapefruit juice spritzer (with agua con gas (seltzer), hibiscus punch or a virgin Mary, half and half seasoned tomato juice and bubbly water. A handful of pistachios and I have a happy hour.


Málaga-style seafood stew.

Dinner. Mostly I've been adjusting favorite dishes to comply with the diet rules. For my Málaga fish stew (above) I needed only to eliminate the bread and use almonds to thicken the sauce (recipe follows). Potatoes are allowed! They are my main carbohydrate this month. 

Chicken curry with mango served with cauliflower "rice."

I get a lot of mileage from a roast chicken, using leftovers for curry or stir-fry. To accompany chicken curry with mangos, I prepared cauliflower “rice” (shown above). 

To make cauliflower rice, cut out and discard the center stalk of the cauliflower. Cut the cauliflower into florets. Place them and small stems in a food processor and pulse until they are chopped to about the size of grains of rice. Place them in a microwave-safe bowl and drizzle with olive oil. Microwave on high for 2 minutes. Stir. Microwave for 1 or 2 minutes more until cauliflower is crisp tender. Add salt. The "rice" can be prepared in advance and reheated in the microwave or in a steamer.

Meatballs with zoodles.

These chicken meatballs in a Southeast Asian curry sauce (shown at right) are served with zoodles, those aforementioned zucchini noodles, instead of rice noodles. In place of bread, the meatballs are mixed with chopped onions and mushrooms.  

Stir-fry with cauliflower "rice."
More leftover chicken in this stir-fry served with cauliflower "rice." Luckily snow peas are exceptions to the no legume rule, as I have lots of snow peas in the garden this month.  Instead of soy sauce (not allowed on the diet), I smash some anchovies into the stir-fried veggies and chicken. 

Sweet potato mousse with walnuts.

Dessert. A piece of fresh fruit is always good. Or sliced mango embellished with grated ginger and a spoonful of thick coconut milk. I got fancy with this sweet potato mousse.

Soak 2 pitted and chopped dates in ¼ cup almond milk, then blend until smooth. Mash 1 medium cooked sweet potato with the date milk. Stir in 1/8 teaspoon each of salt and cardamom, ¼ teaspoon cinnamon, 1 teaspoon grated orange peel, and 1 tablespoon orange juice. Separate 1 large egg. Mix the yolk with the sweet potato. Beat the white until it holds stiff peaks. Fold it into the sweet potatoes.  Spoon the mixture into 4 oiled oven-safe cups. Place them in a pan with boiling water and bake in preheated 375ºF oven until set, about 20 minutes. Serve with chopped walnuts.

Seafood Stew
Cazuela de Pescado

I used fillets of gallineta, rockfish, for this stew. Monkfish or grouper, both firm-fleshed, would be good also. Add squid, clams or mussels if you like.

Serves 2 to 4
Firm-fleshed fish fillets for the stew.

1 pound fish fillets
Salt 
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 cloves garlic, peeled
¼ cup almonds
½ cup chopped onions
½ cup chopped green pepper
½ cup peeled and chopped tomato
½ teaspoon pimentón (paprika)
¼ cup water
1 tablespoon Sherry vinegar
1 pound potatoes, peeled and cut in pieces
1 cup + fish stock or water
Shelled peas or blanched snow peas
12 peeled shrimp
Parsley to garnish

Cut the fillets into 2-inch pieces, salt them lightly and allow to come to room temperature.

Heat the oil on medium-high in a cazuela or deep skillet. Fry the garlic and almonds until they are golden. Skim them out and reserve.

Add the onions and green pepper to the pan. Sauté, stirring occasionally, on medium heat until onion is softened, 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and continue to fry a few minutes.

Place the fried garlic and almonds in a blender with the pimenton, ¼ cup of water, and vinegar. Blend until smooth. Stir this mixture into the pan. Add 1 cup of the stock. Bring to a boil and add the potatoes. Lower heat and cover the pan. Cook until potatoes are tender, 20 minutes. Add the fish and shelled peas to the pan. Cook until fish flakes easily, 10 minutes. Add the snow peas, if using, and the shrimp. Cover and remove the pan from the heat. Allow to set 5 minutes. Serve garnished with parsley.


Black Olive Spread
Olivada Negra

Make this umami-rich spread with the wrinkly kind of salt-cured black olives. (Mine are home-cured Manzanillas.) If Spanish ones are not readily available, substitute Kalamata olives. You will need to pit the olives. Serve the spread with crudités for dipping—I like endive leaves and red pepper. It also goes well with hard-boiled eggs. Or, obviously, toasts or breadsticks if you are not avoiding bread.

Umami-rich ingredients for the olive spread.
1 cup pitted black olives
2 pitted prunes, dates or figs
1 clove garlic
3 sun-dried tomatoes
3 anchovy fillets (from a can)
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons walnuts
1 tablespoon drained capers
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of dried thyme 
Endive leaves to serve

Place all the ingredients in a food processor and process until nearly smooth. Store refrigerated but bring to room temperature to serve. Serve with endive leaves.


Endive leaves with black olive spread.

Fish and vegetable chowder, no flour, almond milk instead of milk or cream.

 

Pan-fried fillets of sea bass, dipped in beaten egg and dredged in almond flour.

Curried squash soup with apple and coconut milk.



Beef stew with artichokes, carrots, and potatoes. A touch of Sherry vinegar replaces the wine. (Original recipe is here. )







Saturday, February 15, 2025

LIGHT-UP THE DAY WITH A GRAPEFRUIT SALAD

 

On an overcast winter day, citrus fruits are like rays of sunshine. Winter and citrus season are nearly finished. In another month the orange trees on Andalusian streets will bloom. Meanwhile I’ve got a cache of tangy-sweet pink grapefruits to light up the day. 


This grapefruit salad is all about contrasts, in texture, color, and flavors. Juicy grapefruit segments meet crunchy red cabbage and buttery avocados. Adding shrimp makes a salad substantial enough for a main dish. 


Grapefruit Salad with Avocado and Cabbage
Ensalada de Pomelo, Aguacate y Col Lombarda

A bright salad with grapefruit segments, red cabbage, avocado, spinach leaves, and shrimp.


Serve the salad on individual plates or

Two ways to serve the salad: 

Either combine the grapefruit, cabbage, avocado, and shrimp in a bowl, dress with extra virgin olive oil, and serve atop salad greens on individual salad plates 

scoop from a serving platter.



or arrange greens on a platter, top with layers of cabbage, grapefruit, avocado, and shrimp, and drizzle oil over all. 

Serves 4.

1 ½ cups finely shredded red cabbage
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon Sherry vinegar
3 pink grapefruits (approx. 10 ounces each)
2 medium firm-ripe avocados
1 cup small shelled and cooked shrimp
Extra virgin olive oil
Spinach leaves or other salad greens
Flaky salt
Garnish, as desired (pumpkin seeds, fresh herbs, black olives, hazelnuts, thinly sliced red onions)

Place the shredded cabbage in a bowl and sprinkle with salt and vinegar.
Use your hands to mix and massage the cabbage. Let it stand 30 minutes (or up to 1 hour) before combining with other ingredients.

Cut off peel and pith.
Use a thin knife to peel the grapefruits. Following the curve of the fruit, cut off skin and white pith. Working over a small bowl to collect the juice, cut segments free from membranes and place them in a bowl. Peel and remove pits from avocados. Slice the avocados crosswise. Place the slices in a bowl and spoon 1 tablespoon of grapefruit juice over them. (Save remaining grapefruit juice for another use.)

Serve the salad, dressed generously with olive oil, either mixed in a bowl or layered on a platter. Sprinkle flaky salt over all and garnish the salad as desired.


More citrus salads: