NOT ALL PORK IS IBÉRICO

 

The secret: it's not ibérico pork.

I admit to being a snob when it comes to pork—I only eat meat from ibérico breed pigs. This is the pig from whence comes fabulous ibérico hams, the best of which are those from free-range animals finished on acorns in the Dehesa forestland. Even meat from non-acorn-fed, half-breed ibérico pigs is extremely expensive. It’s succulence makes it worth the price.

The ibérico pork aficionado learns a whole new terminology for cuts. Beyond the usual chuletas, chops, and solomillo, tenderloin, found in regular pig butchery, there are cuts named lagarto (lizard), pluma (feather), presa (prize piece), and secreto (secret).That’s because, once the hams and shoulders are removed for curing, the remaining meat is so highly valued that it gets divvied up into pieces sometimes too small to be worth bothering with ordinary pork. 

So I was surprised to find in my local supermarket a package of pork marked “secreto” that was not ibérico. Just pork from ordinary pigs (in Spain, mostly from the breeds Large-White and Duroc). It showed fine marbling of fat, a good sign.

 

The secreto—so-called because pork butchers often kept it for themselves--is a cut from below the pig’s shoulder (sometimes described as the “armpit”). It somewhat resembles beef skirt steak in that it is a flap of muscle with a lot of marbling. It can be used for slow braising or for quick searing. Seared on a grill pan or over coals and served medium-rare it’s chewy-tender, juicy, and full of flavor. (Ibérico pork is usually served medium-rare.)

I pan-grilled the secreto to medium—still pink in the thickest part—and served it with a sauté of red, green, and chile peppers, part sauce and part side dish. The non-ibérico secreto, while not as succulent as the real thing, was pretty darn good. 

Pan-grilled to medium, the pork is juicy.

Pepper sauté makes a side dish or sauce for the pork.

Pork Secreto with Pepper Sauté

Secreto de Cerdo con Fritada

For the pepper sauté, use any combination of peppers—red, green or yellow bell, green Italian frying peppers or chiles. In a pinch, canned pimentos or jarred piquillos could be used. A spoonful of vinegar complements the sweetness of the peppers. The pepper sauté is equally good with pork chops, steak, tuna steaks, or chicken breast.

Fat keeps the meat juicy.

Serves 4.

1 ¾ pounds pork secreto (2 or 3 pieces) 

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Pinch of thyme

Chopped garlic

Lemon juice

Olive oil

For the pepper sauté

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 cups peppers cut in strips

1 cup julienne-cut onions

2 cloves garlic, slivered

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon oregano

1 tablespoon Sherry vinegar

Remove some of the exterior fat and membrane or else cut through it so that it doesn’t tighten when cooked and cause the meat to curl. Sprinkle the pieces of pork with salt, pepper, thyme, garlic, and lemon juice. Allow them to come to room temperature.

Heat a grill pan or cast iron skillet on medium-high and brush it lightly with oil. Sear the pieces about 2 minutes per side. Remove them to a cutting board. Allow the meat to rest 5 to 10 minutes. To serve, slice the slabs of meat across the grain about ¾ inch thick. 

For the pepper sauté. Heat the oil in a skillet on medium. Sauté the peppers, onions, and garlic. Season them with salt and oregano. Cook until the peppers are very soft, 10 minutes. Add the vinegar, cover the pan, and turn off the heat so the peppers steam in their own juices. Serve the peppers hot.

Recipes with other cuts of ibérico pork (they can be used with ordinary pork as well):

Presa (top loin) Over Charcoal.

Plancha-Grilled Loin Chops.

Larded Pork Shoulder Roast.

Rice with Ibérico Pork and Ham.

Ibérico Tenderloins with Orange Sauce.

Ibérico Chops with Madroño Sauce.

Ibérico Ribs with Molasses Barbecue Sauce.  (Tip: cook the ribs in water first to eliminate some of the fat which causes flare-ups on the grill.)

IT’S BEEN A GOOD YEAR FOR THE ASPARAGUS

 

April showers bring May asparagus. Although there’s no asparagus in my garden, I’m buying  locally-grown asparagus by double bunches.

According to the growers’ association, Spain is estimated to produce about 60 million kilos (roughly 66,000 tons) of green asparagus this season, more than half of it in the province of Granada (Andalusia). Add in the pricey white asparagus, grown in Navarra and the Valle de Tietar (Extremadura), and it’s shaping up to be a good year for asparagus. (Much of the fresh white asparagus gets shipped to Germany for the spargelfest; the remainder is canned and is considered a delicacy in Spain.)

I confess to buying asparagus all year round, when it’s imported mainly from Peru at unbelievably low prices. But while it lasts, I am enjoying the Spanish crop. Usually I simply cook asparagus until just tender (lift a spear on a fork; if it bends slightly over the fork, it’s done). I serve it with mayonnaise, preferably homemade with extra virgin olive oil and a squeeze of sour orange juice. My next favorite way is in a revuelto, scrambled with eggs and mushrooms. Here are more ways to cook asparagus.

Rustic Asparagus Soup with Cheese Toasts (Sopa de Esparragos). This soup from La Mancha, made with either wild or cultivated asparagus, might have a pinch of saffron and cheesy toast on top. Poach an egg in the broth to add substance. The recipe is here.

White Asparagus Bisque with Saffron (Crema de Esparragos Blancos con Azafrán). From rustic (above) to posh. This soup is fit for a special occasion. Enriched with cream, the bisque can be made with fresh or canned white asparagus. See the recipe here.

Asparagus Frittata (Tortilla de Esparragos). This started out to be a revuelto or tortilla with asparagus and eggs. Because the oven was on, I set the pan in the oven to finish cooking. Sauté the chopped asparagus in olive oil with sliced garlic and (optional) chopped chard, zucchini, mushrooms, and bacon until asparagus is crisp-tender. Beat 4 eggs with 1/4 cup milk, salt and freshly ground black pepper. Pour over the vegetables, stirring until eggs begin to set. Place in medium-hot (375ºF) oven until eggs are set and just beginning to brown on top (about 8 minutes). Serve with grated cheese if you like. 

Eggs Scrambled with Asparagus and Shrimp (Revuelto de Esparragos con Gambas). My favorite lunchtime dish--revuelto, eggs scrambled with whatever vegetable is at hand. This version with shrimp might be served as a brunch dish for a crowd or heaped on toasts as an hors d'oeuvre. The recipe for the pictured revuelto is here . A recipe for a sauté of asparagus, shrimp, and morels (no eggs) is here. 

Asparagus with Two Sauces (Esparragos con Dos Salsas). This cold dish, which makes an excellent starter, is often prepared with canned white asparagus. But it's especially delicious with fresh green asparagus. One sauce is a variation on mayonnaise. The other is a vinaigrette with chopped scallions and red and green peppers. The recipes are here.

Wild Asparagus in Cazuela with Spring Vegetables (Cazuela de Esparragos Esparragados). Early spring brings wild asparagus to meadows and hillsides. Foragers have developed many ways to cook the thin, slightly bitter spears. This is an old traditional recipe--it's name means "asparagussed" asparagus. The vegetables cook in a sauce thickened with bread and flavored with pimentón and cumin. The cazuela usually is finished with eggs poached on top. The recipe is here. 

Sheet Pan Broiled Asparagus and Onions with Romesco Sauce (Calçotada al Grill con Esparragos y Romesco). Broiling is a great way to cook asparagus and romesco sauce is the perfect accompaniment. This is a sheet-pan adaptation of traditional Catalan feast of wood-fire grilled onions with other foods. See how to prepare calçotada and romesco sauce here. You can also grill asparagus on a plancha grill. How-to and more sauce recipes at Grilling on a Plancha.

Flamenco Baked Eggs with Asparagus and Chorizo (Huevos a la Flamenca). I call this the "Spanish shakshuka," eggs baked in a tomato sauce with sliced chorizo and asparagus spears. It's a satisfying lunch or supper dish. Recipe here.

"Garden Crayfish" (Fried Asparagus Spears) (Cigalas de la Huerta). Vegetables masquerading as fish is an old device to make simple foods appetizing. Green beans, crisply fried, sort of resemble fried fresh anchovies and pairs of asparagus spears sort of look like the claws on cigalas, sea crayfish. Directions for preparing the asparagus and other "fake" fish are here.

Mixed Spring Vegetables (Menestra de Verduras). With asparagus, peas, fava beans, and artichokes, this vegetable stew is celebration of spring vegetables. Leave out the optional sausage and it makes a splendid vegetarian main dish. The recipe is here.

White Asparagus with Clams and Shrimp, Basque Style (Esparragos a la Vasca). Make this dish with fresh white asparagus if available. If not, open a tin of silky Navarra asparagus in conserve. The recipe is here.

Asparagus Andalusian Style (Esparragos a la Andaluza). This is another version of the Cazuela de Esparragos Esparragados pictured above with wild asparagus. This one is made with cultivated green asparagus. The recipe is here. 

GOT (NOT) MILK

 

A selection of alternative milks.

My favorite alternative milk is almond (almendra), for its nutty flavor in coffee, in desserts, in savory dishes. Soy (soja) milk, especially when it’s been frothed, barista style, has the mouth-feel of dairy milk. Oat (avena) milk has a lovely sweetness even though it has no added sugar. Rice (arroz) milk, in spite of having the highest number of calories, seems thin and bland, like skimmed milk. Coconut (coco) “milk” makes me think of piña colada and Thai curry but, nevertheless, is delicious in coffee.

In Spain these plant-based, non-dairy products are not labelled “leche.” Rather they are denominated as “bebidas,” beverages. All are sin azucar—no sugar added. They vary quite a bit in calories, protein content, and fats. Some are fortified with calcium and vitamins and may have emulsifiers and stabilizers. Besides the ones mentioned, I have also found “milk” made from rye (centeno),” peas (guisante), cashew (anacardo), and quinoa but have not sampled them.

I began experimenting with alternatives to dairy milk during a month-long “elimination diet” (more about that here). My digestive problems disappeared during the diet, so I’ve avoided returning to my usual consumption of dairy foods. Maybe I’m lactose intolerant or maybe I’m not. But I feel better without the morning yogurt, snacking cheeses, or cow’s milk in my coffee.

Alternative milks have other advantages. According to reports from the NIH (U.S. National Institutes of Health), plant-based milks are more environmentally friendly than cow’s milk. They generate roughly one-third or less of the greenhouse gas emissions of cow’s milk, and—with the exception of almond milk—they use considerably less water. 

I’m pleased that several cafés in the pueblo now offer one or two alternative milks for my morning café con leche. At home I use whichever "milk" carton is currently open. Here are other ways I’ve incorporated alt-milk in my cooking.

Ajo blanco is a traditional Málaga cold soup, a sort of white gazpacho made with almonds and garlic. This version, which can be served hot or cold, is made with almond milk instead of ground almonds. The recipe is here. 

Another twist on gazpacho--this one is made with cucumbers and almond milk, although any of the alternative milks could be used for this recipe. Yogurt is an optional ingredient--look for soy yogurt if desired. 

See the recipe for Cucumber Gazpacho.

Use thin coconut milk as broth for this Thai-style fish or chicken soup. There's more information about the difference between thin and thick coconut milk in the recipe for the soup below.   

This savory timbale is made with zucchini, spinach, and soy or other  alternative milk instead of dairy milk. Although there are non-dairy cheeses, I used diced potatoes to replace cheese. See the recipe here.

Make this recipe for Creamy Rice Pudding, substituting rice milk for dairy milk. Or, go a little crazy and use almond milk or oat milk! The recipe is here. 

A sumptuous pudding with mango, ginger, and coconut milk. This recipe uses thick coconut milk from a can. It's every bit as rich as cream. The recipe is below.

Thai Fish Soup in Coconut Milk

Sopa de Pescado con Coco

Thin coconut milk is commercialized in cartons, usually shelved near the dairy milk. It’s only about 22 percent coconut. The rest is water. Thick coconut milk, a mix of thin coconut milk and coconut cream, has much less water, may be from 60 to 90 percent coconut. It’s usually sold in cans and placed with Asian ingredients. 

Use any type of fish fillets for this recipe. The soup can also be made with diced chicken.

For the spice blend, use jarred Thai curry paste or make a paste by blending ginger, garlic, shallots, black pepper, chiles, turmeric, and fish sauce (naam pla). 

4 cups thin coconut milk

Curry paste or spice blend

2 cups fish cut in 1-inch cubes

Vegetables such as snow peas or broccoli florets

Shrimp (optional)

Cooked rice, to serve

Lime or lemon to serve

Chopped cilantro to garnish

Red chile to garnish

Combine 1 cup of the coconut milk with the curry paste or spice blend and mix until smooth. Whisk in the remaining coconut milk. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium, and add the fish and any vegetables. Cook until the fish is done, about 5 minutes. Add shrimp if desired. Serve the soup with rice and lime or lemon wedges. Garnish with cilantro and chile.

Mango-Coconut Mousse

Pudín de Mango y Coco

All of the alternative milks are plant-based. However this recipe uses gelatine, which is an animal product. For a vegan diet it could be made with agar-agar or cornstarch as thickener.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

¼ teaspoon cold water

3 teaspoons unflavored gelatin powder

½ teaspoon minced fresh ginger root

1 ½ cups thick coconut milk (canned)

1 ½ cups chopped mango (1 large mango)

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Sugar or sweetener to taste

Toasted coconut to garnish

Combine the water and gelatin in a small bowl and let sit 5 minutes.

Place the ginger and ½ cup of the coconut milk in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the gelatin until completely dissolved.

In a food processor puree the remaining coconut milk with the mango and lemon juice. Add the gelatin mixture from the pan and blend. Add sugar or sweetener if desired. (Very sweet mango may not need sweetening.)

Pour into a bowl, cover and refrigerate 3 hours until the mixture is very thick. Remove the bowl from the fridge. Use a chilled beater to whip the mixture until fluffy. Spoon it into 4 to 6 dessert cups. Chill the mousse at least 4 hours. Serve garnished with toasted coconut.

Toast shredded coconut.

(To toast coconut: Place unsweetened grated or shredded coconut in a heavy pan over medium-high heat. Stir frequently until it is golden-brown. Cool before storing in an air-tight container.)