Saturday, December 28, 2019

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

 I need a new calendar! The year—and the decade—are running out. As with other chroniclers, I can't resist making lists. How about: the 12 best dishes of Spanish cooking, one for every month?  


I’ve actually done that already. Back in 1997 (in collaboration with food photographer John James Wood), I created a Calendar of Spanish Cooking, with a recipe and photo for every calendar page of the year. We didn’t get it into the holiday gift market early enough, so the calendar didn’t sell so well. But it was a grand excuse to sift through my recipes and cookbooks in order to narrow the vastness of Spanish cuisine down to 12 recipes. (I know, that’s exactly what's odious about lists.)

See what you think about my list. Are these the best—as well as best-known—dishes of Spain? What 12 dishes would you include? I´ve provided links to all the recipes in previous blogs. Incidentally, the blog, MY KITCHEN IN SPAIN, also completes a decade!

JANUARY

J
Fabada Asturiana, Asturian Casserole of Beans and Sausages. Bubbling hot in a cazuela, this stew is just what’s wanted in the coldest month of the year. Recipe: Fabada Beans.
FEBRUARY

Almonds bloom in January and February.
Pollo en Pepitoria, Chicken in Almond Sauce. The original calendar photograph was styled with a branch of pink almond blossoms, which bloom this month. Recipe: Pepitoria Chicken in Almond-Saffron Sauce.

MARCH

Crema Catalana; Catalan Custard with Burnt Sugar Topping. This dessert is typically served for the feast of San José--Spanish Fathers' Day,, which falls in mid-March. Recipe: Catalan Custards.
APRIL

Pimientos de Piquillo Rellenos con Pescado; Piquillo Peppers Stuffed with Fish. Made with bacalao, codfish, or shrimp, this is a classic of Basque cooking. Recipe: Stuffed Piquillo Peppers. This was one of my very first blogs--10 years ago! I'm thinking I need to re-shoot a lot of the photos from the first several years, when I was still learning. 

MAY

Empanada Gallega; Galician Pork Pie. My calendar version was inspired by a spring picnic in the wildflowers. But this favorite is great any time of the year. New Year's Day brunch, maybe? See the recipe below.


JUNE

Paella con Mariscos; Paella with Seafood. Not the classic Valencia paella, but a fun--and tasty--beachside version with both chicken and shellfish. Recipe: Paella with Chicken and Seafood.

JULY

Torta de Santiago; Santiago Almond Torte. A scrumptious dessert, good any time of the year, but chosen because Santiago saint’s day festival falls on July 25. Recipe: Almond Torte.

AUGUST

Gazpacho Andaluz; Andalusian Gazpacho. What else for the heat of summer when tomatoes are at their best?  Recipe: Andalusian Gazpacho.

SEPTEMBER


Tortilla Española; Spanish Potato Omelette. The classic--for tapas, for lunch or anytime. With onion or without. I no longer call it an omelette. Tortilla means a round, flat "cake". Recipe: Potato Tortilla.

OCTOBER

Merluza a la Vasca; Basque-Style Hake. This is right up there with my most favorite dishes of Spanish cooking. So simple. But, it depends on really fresh fish. Recipe: Basque-Style Hake.


NOVEMBER

El Cocido Español; Spanish Boiled Dinner. Every region of Spain has a version of cocido. This one, replete with meat, sausages, chicken, chickpeas and vegetables, is typical of Madrid. Recipe: Cocido Meal-in-a-Pot.

DECEMBER

Roscos de Navidad; Anise-Scented Holiday Rings. Fried or baked, these are special for the Twelve Days of Christmas, especially in Andalusia. Recipe: Holiday Ring Cookies.


Galician Empanada with Pork Loin
Empanada de Lomo

 Galician empanadas can be made with many different fillings—meat, fish, shellfish, poultry. One of the most popular is made with sliced or diced pork loin. The pork marinates in an adobo for a few hours, before being browned in oil. 

I’ve chosen to substitute leftover roast turkey for some of the pork in the following recipe. Since the turkey doesn’t need the frying step, I added 2 tablespoons of oil to the diced turkey with crushed garlic, oregano and pimentón to marinate.

Use either smoked or regular pimentón (paprika). Unless you prefer to roast and peel red peppers, use canned ones. You can also use canned tomato sauce (tomate frito), more or less the same sauce you might spread on pizza.

It is the fat—olive oil plus pork fat—that keeps the filling juicy. Don’t add extra liquid, as it only makes the crust soggy. 

For the filling

1 pound boneless pork loin, cut in ¾-inch dice
Salt
Freshly round black pepper
2 teaspoons oregano
3 cloves crushed garlic
1 tablespoon pimentón (paprika)
5 tablespoons olive oil
1 link (4 ounces) soft cooking chorizo, sliced
2 cups chopped onions
¼ cup white wine
¾ cup canned red pimiento, cut in strips
Red pepper flakes (optional)
2 tablespoons (canned) tomato sauce (not concentrate)
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Empanada dough (recipe follows)
1 egg, beaten

Place the diced pork in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Add the oregano, crushed garlic and 1 teaspoon of the pimentón. Cover and marinate the meat, refrigerated, for 2-10 hours.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a skillet. Add the sliced chorizo and fry briefly. Skim it out and reserve. Add the pork to the skillet and brown it quickly. It does not need to cook thoroughly, as it will continue cooking in the oven. Remove and set aside.

Add remaining oil to the skillet. Add the onions and sauté them slowly, 5 minutes. Add the wine and cook until liquid is cooked off. Add the remaining pimentón, the pimiento, red pepper flakes, if using, and tomato sauce. Cook, stirring, until onions are very soft, 10 minutes longer.

Preheat oven to 375ºF. Line a rimmed baking sheet with baking parchment.

Divide the empanada dough in half. On a lightly floured board, roll one half out into a rectangle, (approximately 10X14 inches). Trim excess dough and save the scraps. Spread the dough onto the baking sheet, stretching the dough slightly.

Spread meat and sofrito on dough.

Spread the fried pork in a single layer on the dough. Add the fried chorizo. Spread the sofrito of onions and red peppers over the meat. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.

Roll out the remaining dough to roughly the same size and place on top of the filling. Roll and pinch the edges to enclose the filling and seal the empanada. 

Roll out scraps of dough into long cords and use them to decorate the top of the empanada. Cut a steam vent in the center of the pie. Brush the top with beaten egg.

Place the empanada on the bottom oven rack and bake 15 minutes. Lower heat to 350ºF. Place the empanada on the top rack and bake until browned, about 25 minutes more.

Serve the empanada hot, room temperature or cold. 

Serve empanada hot or cold. It's great for packing on a picnic.


Olive oil and fat from the chorizo keep the filling juicy.




 Dough for Empanadas
Masa para Empanadas

This yeast dough with olive oil is easy to manage. Any extra bits of dough can be rolled out thinly and cut into “crackers.” They’re crisp and delicious. 

The dough can be made in advance and, after the initial rising, frozen until ready to complete the empanada. Thaw the dough completely before proceeding with the recipe.

1 pound flour, preferably bread flour (approx. 4 cups) plus additional for rolling out
1.5 ounces fresh pressed yeast
¾ cup warm water
5 fluid ounces olive oil
1 ½ teaspoons salt

Place the flour in a mixing bowl.

Combine the yeast and warm water in a small bowl. Allow to stand 5 minutes, then mix the yeast with the water.

Make a well in the center of the flour. Pour in the yeast water. Use a wooden spoon to stir the flour into the water. Add the oil and salt. Continue stirring to mix the oil and flour.

Lightly flour a wooden board. Turn the dough out and knead it until smooth and stretchy, 10 minutes. (Or use a bread machine.) 

Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl. Cover with a damp cloth and set in a warm place to rise for 1 hour.

Calendar with recipes and photos by John J. Wood, from 1997. Are these the 12 best of Spanish cooking?


Happy New Year! Feliz Año Nuevo. 



8 comments:

  1. Wonderful blog! Will never forget your gazpacho and paella!
    HAPPY NEW YEAR!

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  2. Janet- I love your blog so much. I will most definitely be trying the empanada soon. I was wondering if you are available to chat via video with my students here in Virginia. I am teaching a Food in Spain class and I know that it would be such an enriching experience for them.

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    1. Martha: Thanks! We cooks love feedback! Why don't you write to me at jmendelspain at gmail dot com and tell me more about what you have in mind about video chat.

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  3. The Torta de Santiago was my Yaya's absolute favorite dessert. She would order it every time we ate at Ciudad Condal in Barcelona and we would split a piece. I will have to try to recreate it with your recipe! ¡Feliz año nuevo!

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    1. Deborah: One of my favorite desserts too! I've even developed a sugar-free version: https://mykitcheninspain.blogspot.com/2016/04/the-dessert-dilemma.html Good luck with making it. Feliz año.

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