LUNCH WITH A VIEW

 

On a bright but hazy day, small boats and a kite-surfer are lost in the mist. (Benalmádena Costa)

Restaurant Parador Playa perches above a small cove with wooden steps leading down to a strip of beach. On this afternoon the sun filters through a haze that almost obscures the horizon. The view is so stunning that, for a few minutes, I forget about lunch. But, then I catch a whiff of sardines grilling and I am hungry.  

We have been invited by friends to the soft opening (actually, a re-opening, after remodelling) of the beach restaurant, Parador Playa, in Benalmadena Costa (Málaga province). Francis Muñoz, chef and owner of the family restaurant, proudly shows off his gleaming new kitchen, and wine cellar. Beautifully laid tables are open to sea breezes, but the space has sliding glass enclosures for less perfect weather.  

Fresh fish and shellfish, straight off the boats at local ports.

Our host, Chris Gil, a regular at Parador Playa, orders a sampling of dishes—all seafood—for guests at the table to share. I had been craving boquerones fritos, a platter of fried fresh anchovies, so typical of Málaga. “Sorry, the new deep fryer requires a high-voltage cable and they’re still waiting for the installation,” said Chris. There were a few other pre-opening kinks. The staff, always gracious, was getting used to new electronic devices for taking orders, which led to our enjoying two versions of tuna tartar. 

Nadia Gil and friends, pre-lunch nibbles.

The menu, which changes seasonally, depends on absolutely fresh seafood—straight off the fishing boats in local ports. Chef Francis has elaborated a menu based on the traditional Málaga kitchen to which he has added a flair for Japanese influences. This is particularly noticeable in the section of the menu labelled crudo, or raw entrees, which includes several versions of tartar and sashimi. 

These are quisquillas served raw, bodies peeled, with their intensely deep blue roe, lightly dressed with extra virgin olive oil. I spent hours searching for the exact name for quisquillas (Plesionika edwardsii). Let's just call them "small shrimp" or "blue-bellies." Their flavor is delicate, redolent of the sea, an exquisite bite.

Clams on the half-shell.

I adore these conchas finas which were ordered especially for me! Served raw, they are firm, somewhat chewy, flavorful. Although these clams are a Málaga trademark, experts say they are disappearing from local waters, not from over-fishing but due to climate change and coastal dredging for beach restoration.

Ensaladilla rusa--potato salad with octopus.

 This is a stunning version of a tapas bar classic,  ensaladilla rusa or Russian salad. The flavorful potatoes are bound with a mayonnaise-like sauce, very rich and light at the same time, and topped with pulpo a la gallega, tender chunks of cooked octopus in Galician pimentón sauce. 

Although Parador Playa is many steps above the sandy beach, these sardines are prepared as traditional espetones, skewered and grilled on coals. I eat them with my fingers but some guests used knife and fork. 

We sampled two versions of tuna ventresca, rich belly meat, the first (above) with tuna in unctuous ajo blanco (white gazpacho) and topped with caviar and the second with diced tomatoes and house-made potato chips (below).  I preferred the version with tomato and those crispy chips. 

Two ways with small cuttlefish: Plancha-grilled (top) and (below) with mayonnaise swirled with cuttlefish ink. Small cuttlefish are called chocos, chopitos, or puntillitas (although small squid also are called puntillitas). 

Sobremesa--a Spanish custom--that delicious post-prandial time for conversation or just enjoying the beauty of a Mediterranean afternoon on the terrace of Parador Playa. The restaurant has an amazing list of desserts with a variety of unusual chocolates. The coffee is excellent. Some might enjoy a Pacheran, a sloe-berry and anis inflected liqueur served over ice.

The Parador Playa menu features eight different rice dishes (arroces--not called paella, although they are served in a paella pan), including the "daily surprise." (I once described it as the best paella rice I've ever eaten.)They must be ordered 24 hours in advance. There are a couple of meat dishes (retinto steak, baby lamb chops), but the point of view, literally and gastronomically, is the sea.  

Parador Playa is now open for regular service, noon to 8 pm, Wednesday through Sunday, until the end of October. (Check with Reservations about later dates.)

Reservations: https://paradorplaya.com/   +34 951 264 931

 

This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times.  (Hippocrene Books)    

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POTATO SALAD SMACKDOWN

Potato salad with lemony dressing.

Invited to a friend’s barbecue supper, I offered to bring a side dish.  How about potato salad? I make a Spanish-style potato salad, ensaladilla de patatas, also known as  papas aliñadas. Unlike most American-style potato salads, it has no mayonnaise, but a lemony olive oil dressing.

But, how was I to know that José also was bringing potato salad? His was another version, this one with mayonnaise, called ensaladilla rusa or “Russian” salad.

It was shaping up to be a mano a mano of potato salads! I watched as guests tried one or the other, sometimes both. Gotta admit, the mayo salad is more seductive. But everyone who tried my version raved about it.

Both versions of potato salad are popular in tapa bars in Spain. In fact, I would bet that ensaladilla rusa is the most requested tapa of all times. It’s a real guy favorite. 

I asked José (José Antonio Ruiz is manager/creative director of Caravelle Design ) for his recipe. He said it was his mother’s recipe and the secret was to use homemade mayonnaise, not mayonnaise from a jar, made with either a mild-flavored olive oil or with sunflower oil.

If you read Spanish, see his notes. My recipe follows. Unlike Jose´s version, it does not include shrimp and tuna.

Para la ensaladilla, aparte de las patatas, el huevo picado y la zanahoria, usar guisantes, pepinillo en vinagre picado muy pequeño, pimiento morrón en bastante cantidad, no sólo para adornar, aceitunas rellenas, alcaparras, langostinos cocidos y pelados. NUNCA USAR MAIZ. (no corn kernels).


En vez de atún, usa bonito del norte y la mayonesa es casera, no de bote, con aceite de oliva muy suave o con aceite de girasol.

También es importante el punto de sal en las patatas antes de mezclarlo todo y dejar que repose todo por lo menos 12 horas antes de comer.

Ensaladilla Rusa
“Russian” Potato Salad

Makes 8 tapas or 4 to 5 side servings.

4 medium potatoes (1 ¼ pounds)
3 carrots, peeled (6 ounces)
½ cup fresh or frozen shelled peas
1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 piquillo peppers chopped (2 tablespoons)
1 hard-boiled egg, chopped
1 spring onion, finely chopped
3 tablespoons chopped pickle
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
½ cup mayonnaise

3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
capers, drained

Cook the potatoes and carrots in boiling water to cover until tender. The carrots will take about 12 minutes; the potatoes a total of 20 minutes. Cook the peas until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain vegetables and chill them.

Peel the potatoes and cut them in ½-inch dice. Cut the carrots lengthwise in quarters, then slice crosswise into small dice. Combine the potatoes, carrots and peas in a bowl. Add the salt, oil, chopped piquillo peppers, egg and onion.

In a small bowl combine the pickle, mustard, parsley, mayonnaise and vinegar. Whisk until smooth. Stir into the potatoes. Let the potatoes stand 2 hours at room temperature or, covered and refrigerated, up to 24 hours. Serve cold or room temperature. Garnish the top with capers.

Potato Salad with Lemony Dressing

Papas Aliñadas

Potato salad with green beans.

Spanish potato salads are usually made with mealy baking potatoes that soak up lots of the tasty dressing. Take care not to overcook the potatoes, or they will disintegrate.

Tip: Potatoes will slice without crumbling if you chill them before peeling and slicing.

This salad often has chunks of canned tuna added to it. If you use a good brand of tuna in olive oil you can use the oil from the can to flavor the potatoes.  The potato salad pictured at the top has sliced quails' eggs. The one to the right has sliced green beans added to the potatoes.

Serves 10 to 12 as a tapa or 6 as a side dish.

5 to 6 medium potatoes (2 pounds)
1 teaspoon salt
4 spring onions, finely chopped
2 medium tomatoes, chopped
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
6 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 hard-boiled eggs, sliced, for garnish
1 (3 oz) tin tuna, drained, for garnish (optional)
Strips of tinned red pimiento, for garnish
12 pitted green olives, for garnish

Cook the potatoes in their skins in boiling water until just tender, 20 minutes. Drain. When cool, peel and slice the potatoes.

In a large bowl, combine the salt, onions, tomatoes, oil, lemon juice and parsley. Add the potatoes and combine gently so the potatoes are evenly covered with the dressing. Allow the salad to marinate for at least 2 hours at room temperature, or, covered and refrigerated, up to 24 hours.

Spread the potatoes on a platter. Garnish them with sliced egg, chunks of tuna, strips of pimiento and olives.

©Janet Mendel