"This is a fascinating book about history but not stuck in time. Janet is a time traveler, telling us stories about the past but always making them relevant, bringing the world of al-Andalus—a region very close to my heart—to our kitchens today."
--Chef José Andrés
I am so honored to receive these words, an advance review of my book, FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS, from José Andrés, chef, restaurateur, humanitarian,
and friend. They will appear on the back cover of the book along with brief reviews from other writers on food and history.
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| FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS, The Culinary Legacy of Spain (back cover) |
José Andrés, a Spanish-born chef who has restaurants all across the United States, is founder of World Central Kitchen, a non-profit organization that provides food relief in disaster areas.
I am grateful to all those who took the time to read the advance release of FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS and pass along their thoughtful comments. I especially appreciate the praise from Nawal Nasrullah, whose English translation of a 13th century Andalusí cookbook by Ibn Razīn al-Tujībī, was one of my primary references in writing this book. The beautiful photo of the Alhambra, Granada, the last of the fabulous palaces of the Andalusí era, is by Julio Sevillano.
In FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS I didn’t set out to recreate those 13th century recipes, but rather to track their legacy in the cooking of today. The 120 recipes in the book are dishes you might find in modern-day Spain, in a tapas bar in Sevilla, at a village fiesta, or on the dinner table in a pueblo home. It is the story of the Muslim influence on the cooking of Spain today.
This following recipe from Granada is a garlicky stew that is usually made with kid-goat. A dish of Morisco heritage, it's what I always ordered at a venta on the road to the Sierra Nevada (Granada). The Moriscos were former Muslims who stayed on in their towns and villages, keeping their language, religious practices, mode of dress, and food customs after the fall in 1492 of the last Muslim kingdom of Granada.
The principal change to the recipe in the ensuing centuries has been the addition of dried red peppers and pimentón. Here’s the Andalusí version.
Lamb Riblets in Garlicky Sauce
Carne en Ajillo a la Moruna
The Morisco influence is still very strong in the cooking of upland areas of Granada and Almería. The Muslims of al-Andalus did not use much garlic in their cooking, as the Prophet Mohammed instructed followers not to eat garlic before entering the mosque. However, since neighboring Jews and Christians cooked with a lot of garlic, Muslims gradually acquired a taste for it—another instance of the culinary fusion of the era.
Ajillo means “a little garlic.” In Spanish, the diminutive also denotes affection or, tongue in cheek, the opposite of “small.” Sometimes using “just a little garlic,” actually means it’s lots and lots! Most recipes cooked “al ajillo” are simply food sautéed in olive oil with lots of garlic, whole or chopped cloves like the famous tapa gambas al ajillo, shrimp sizzled in oil with garlic. Here fried garlic is crushed with almonds to make a flavorful sauce.
In the traditional version, the lean, tender meat from kid-goat (choto, chivo, cabrito) is hacked into pieces, bones and all. A good substitute is lamb riblets or even small lamb chops.
Serves 4.
2 pounds lamb riblets
Salt
¼ cup olive oil
4 garlic cloves
¼ cup blanched and skinned almonds
1 slice bread, crusts removed
½ teaspoon coarse salt
¼ teaspoon peppercorns
1 clove
¼ teaspoon saffron threads
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ cup white wine
2 inch cinnamon stick
1 bay leaf
Parsley to garnish
Pomegranate arils to garnish (optional)
Sprinkle the meat with salt and let it come to room temperature.
Heat the oil in a cazuela or large skillet. Add 3 cloves of unpeeled garlic. When they begin to sizzle, add the almonds and bread. Fry until they are lightly browned on both sides. Skim out the garlics, almonds and bread.
Place the pieces of meat in the oil on medium heat and fry them slowly, turning to brown on all sides.
Crush the coarse salt, peppercorns, clove and saffron in a mortar. Add the cumin. Stir in the white wine and mix well.
Peel the 3 cloves of fried garlic and remaining raw garlic. Place them in a blender container with the almonds, bread broken into pieces, and ½ cup of water. Blend until smooth. Add the spices from the mortar and blend again.
Pour the mixture from the blender over the meat. Add the cinnamon stick, bay leaf and ½ cup more water. Mix the sauce with the meat. Taste for salt. Simmer, uncovered, until the meat is fork-tender, about 45 minutes. Add additional water if necessary to keep the meat from scorching. The sauce should be the consistency of gravy.
Let the meat set 10 minutes before serving. Garnish with parsley and, if desired, pomegranate.
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This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking.
Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times. Dishes from this era include exotic spices such as saffron, the use of fruits and almonds with savory dishes, and honeyed sweets and pastries. The flavors of al-Andalus live on in modern Spanish cooking and are what makes Spain’s cuisine distinctive from the rest of Europe. (Hippocrene Books)
Use PROMO CODE HIPPO40 for 40% off through June 30 on all Hippocrene titles at IndiePubs online bookstore.
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