THE CHILDREN’S MENU: FISH PATTIES

 

Fish patties, mayonnaise to go with them, coleslaw and corn-on-the-cob--a summer meal that will please the kids.

Fish was on the menu at least once a week when my kids were growing up. Not that they were crazy about fish, but that any food served with plenty of mayonnaise was acceptable. Simply baked and served with boiled potatoes and mayo straight from the jar, fish was consumed with gusto.

I especially liked such fish as pez de San Pedro (John Dory), pez de limón (amberjack) and lubina (sea bass). But, I often bought a cheap fish called lisa, grey mullet, that the vendor tried to pass off as lubina. Until one dinner, we took a bite of the fish and spat it out. It reeked of sewage and diesel fuel. We never again ate grey mullet. The coastal waters where they are fished had become so polluted that the fish were inedible. 

Whichever the fish, after dinner I picked the flesh off the bones and refrigerated it with the leftover potatoes. The next day I mashed it all up together, fish and potatoes, shaped it into patties and fried them crisp. More mayonnaise. Fish patties were as popular as burgers.

Since then, I have experimented with classier recipes for “fish cakes,” with bread crumbs, mayonnaise, Old Bay seasoning, etc. You know what? They have never been as good as the simple fish patties with potatoes. So, whether it’s the children’s menu or for grownups, give them a try.

Fish patties are easy to make with leftover cooked fish and mashed potatoes.

Fish patties are crisp on the outside, soft in the middle.

Crunchy coleslaw--perfect side with fish patties.

For kids: keep it simple.

For grownups: add capers or another piquant garnish.

Fish-Potato Patties 

Tortitas de Pescado y Patatas

Use any cooked fish to make these patties. Today I’ve got salmon, but it could just as well be mackerel, bass, bream, hake or cod. 

Pieces of salmon have been poached, ready to be flaked.

Leftover pan-grilled salmon is fine for fish patties.

I used about two-thirds fish to one-third potatoes for these patties, but you can use any proportion of fish to potatoes. If you’re starting with cooked fish (baked, grilled, poached), you will need about 16 ounces of boned and skinned fish to make 2 ½ cups of flaked fish. If you’ve roasted a whole fish and have leftovers, try to pick the flesh from the bones while the fish is still warm. Once chilled, it’s harder to separate fine bones.  

If you are starting with uncooked fish, use a little more than 1 pound of fillets, to allow for any skin and bones that will be removed. Poach the fish in 3 cups of water that has been boiled 2 minutes with salt, bay leaf, piece of celery and slice of leek or onion. Poach the fish at a simmer until it just flakes when prodded with a knife tip, about 5 minutes. Skim the fish out of the liquid. When it is cool enough to handle, flake it, discarding any skin and spines. (Mince the cooked celery to add to the patty mixture.)

I say, serve the fish patties with mayonnaise. Straight out of the jar is fine for most kids. Or whip up olive oil mayo. Add smashed garlic for alioli. If there are no fussy kids to cater for, flavor the mayonnaise with capers, with wasabi, with chile. Put the patties on buns, if you like, and add a spoonful of crunchy coleslaw. 

Makes 12 (3-inch) patties.

2 ½ cups cooked, flaked fish

2 cooked potatoes (10 ounces)

1 egg, beaten

1 teaspoon minced celery

1 tablespoon grated onion

2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

Grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon salt

Spices and herbs, to taste

1 cup fine dry bread crumbs

Olive oil for frying

Mash cooked potatoes.

Peel and chop the potatoes into a bowl. Use a potato masher or fork to mash them. They don’t need to be completely smooth. Mix in the beaten egg. Add the celery, onion, parsley, zest and salt and combine well.

Mix flaked fish and potatoes.

Add the flaked fish and mix to combine the fish and potatoes very well. Season with additional spices or herbs, if desired.

Chill the fish-potato mixture 1 hour. Chilling will make it easier to shape the patties.

Place patties in shallow pan with bread crumbs.

Spread half of the crumbs in a shallow pan. Divide the fish mixture into 12 equal-sized balls. Pat the balls into 3-inch disks and place them in a single layer in the crumbs. Sprinkle enough additional crumbs on top to coat the patties. 

Cover and chill the tray of patties until ready to fry them.

Heat enough oil to cover the bottom of a heavy skillet. Fry 4 or 5 patties at a time on moderately high heat until golden on one side. Turn and fry reverse sides until browned. Remove and place on paper towels to absorb excess oil. Serve the fish patties immediately. (The fish patties, if made in advance, can be reheated in a 400ºF oven.)

Recipes for mayonnaise and variations:

Green Mayonnaise.

Garlic Mayonnaise (Alioli).

Piquillo Pepper Alioli.

No-Egg Mayonnaise.

Sour Orange Mayonnaise.