THE TALE OF A LONELY LITTLE SPAGHETTI SQUASH

We are bereft of pumpkins and squashes in the garden this year. Was the growing season too hot? Not enough water? No bees to pollinate the flowers? The lone survivor was a pretty, yellow spaghetti squash. 

An only squash--

Spaghetti squash is a variety not found in local markets, which is why I planted it. I make “zoodles,” thin strips of zucchini to substitute for pasta in order to keep my consumption of carbohydrates down. I figured spaghetti squash, whose flesh cooks up into skinny strands, or “spaghetti,” would be equally delicious with pesto, puttanesca or Asian peanut-sesame-chile sauce.

My singleton squash somehow deserved more elaborate fixing. How about fideuá, also known as “pasta paella,” a Valencian dish combining fideo noodles and seafood?

Shrimp, squid and mussels tossed in olive oil are pretty delicious, no matter whether you’re using real pasta or vegetable noodles. But, spaghetti squash makes noodles as thin as vermicelli, which turned out not so pretty in the finished dish. (Real fideos are more like spaghetti in thickness.) They did provide a good texture, however, with just a little crunch.

And, that’s the story of how my lonely little spaghetti squash was transformed into a Spanish dish. I´d happily ladle the whole mixture over a serving of pasta!

The beauty shot! Thin squash "spaghetti" tastes great, but doesn't have much visual presence.

Strands of squash are tangled with shrimp, squid and mussels. A sofrito gives flavour. The color comes from pimentón, not saffron.

Seafood with Spaghetti Squash “Noodles”
Fideuá con Fideos de Calabaza

Fresh gambas blancas. Shells and heads can be used for stock or flavoring the cooking oil.

If you start with whole shrimp with heads and shells, the shells can be used to make a flavorful broth and/or to flavor the olive oil for making the sofrito. If this is not an option, use clam broth or fish stock.

You can vary the seafood in this dish. Use clams instead of mussels. Add chunks of a solid-fleshed fish such as rape (monkfish, angler) or (precooked) cuttlefish. I used thick pieces of a kind of squid called pota (flying squid). 

Serves 4.

1 (2-pound) spaghetti squash
1 pound whole small shrimp (or ½ pound peeled shrimp)
¼ cup olive oil
2 cloves chopped garlic
1 cup chopped red and green bell pepper
1 cup grated tomato pulp
6 ounces cleaned squid, in rings or chunks
¼ teaspoon smoked pimentón picante (hot paprika)
½ teaspoon sweet pimentón (paprika, not smoked)
1 cup shrimp or clam broth
Salt
8 mussels, steamed open and empty shells discarded
Chopped parsley to serve
Alioli (garlic mayonnaise) to accompany (optional)

After microwaving, squash makes strands.

Cut the spaghetti squash in half lengthwise. Scoop out and discard the seeds. Place one half, cut side down, in a microwave safe dish and add ¼ cup water. Microwave on high for 4 minutes. Turn the squash cut side up. Microwave 4 minutes more. Allow to set 5 minutes. Repeat with the other half of the squash.

When squash is cool enough to handle, use a fork to scrape the flesh lengthwise and scoop out the strands. Reserve them.

If you are starting with whole shrimp, peel them, reserving the heads and shells. Refrigerate the shrimp bodies. 

Fry the shrimp shells in olive oil, then discard the shells. Use the oil to make sofrito. Flavor!

Heat the oil in a paella pan or skillet. Add the heads and shells and fry them, stirring and crushing with a spatula, until they are completely cooked. Remove from heat. Tilt the pan so that the oil drains to one side. Use a skimmer to remove the shells from the pan. Discard them, saving the oil.

Return the oil to the heat. Add the garlic and peppers and sauté 3 minutes. Add the tomato pulp and continue frying until tomato liquid is cooked off and the sofrito begins to sizzle in the oil. Add the pieces of squid and the two kinds of pimentón. Sauté for 1 minute and add the shrimp or clam broth. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and cook gently for 10 minutes.

Add the reserved spaghetti squash to the pan. When the squash is very hot, add the shrimp. Stir to combine and cook 1 or 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Place mussels on top of the noodles. Sprinkle with parsley. If desired, serve with alioli (garlic mayonnaise) to accompany the dish.

Related recipes:

Spaghetti Squash Pie.

Low-Carb Paella (with Cauliflower "Rice".

Classic Fideuá (Seafood and Fideo Noodles).

Shrimp and Fideo Noodle Salad.

Fideo Noodles with Tofu.

A few years ago--the pumpkin and squash yield was terrific.

THANKSGIVING ABROAD--BEYOND PUMPKIN PIE

Happy Thanksgiving from Spain. I’ll sieze any excuse for a feast! Though I live in Spain, where Thanksgiving Thursday is not a holiday, I enjoy having  friends and family over for a special dinner. For me, Thanksgiving is a harvest celebration, so I usually incorporate foods from my garden. I like the traditional menu—turkey (must be special-ordered from the butcher at this time of year), stuffing, sweet potatoes, pumpkin pie—but often give it a twist, such as a Spanish-inflected stuffing with chorizo.

Last year, the pumpkin pie came up for redefinition.  I had a bumper crop of spagetti squash in my garden and scrambled to find some new ways to cook them. Spaghetti squash (which my Spanish gardener had never seen before) has an identity problem. Vegetable or noodle? The flesh cooks up into skinny strands, or “spaghetti”. Thus, its identity problem. And, also its versatility. I decided it could go either way.


I took my spaghetti squash around the globe. Starting in Spain, I used it in one of my favorite vegetable preparations. I prepared a quick “dressing” of slivered garlic, flecks of chile and serrano ham sautéed in olive oil with the addition of smoked Spanish paprika and tossed it with the cooked strands of spaghetti squash. It made a great vegetable side with roast turkey, pork chop or grilled salmon.

Looking to Italy, I tossed the cooked squash with a garlicky pesto sauce and lots of grated cheese. Texturally speaking, lightly cooked spaghetti squash easily subs for shredded cabbage in slaw. With a hint of ginger, the slaw pairs with simple grilled chicken breast or goes nicely alongside a juicy burger on a bun.

A squash is a squash is a pumpkin. Using that logic, I decided to substitute spaghetti squash for smooth pumpkin puree in a pie. The result is a pie with traditional flavor plus lots of texture. “Very unusual,” said one guest. “I love it!,” said another. “Better than yucky pumpkin,” said one of the kids.

How to prepare spaghetti squash
    Use a sharp knife to cut the squash in half lengthwise. Scoop out the seeds and discard them. Place one half, cut side down, in a microwave-safe container with 1/4 cup water. Microwave on high (full power) for 5 minutes. Turn the squash cut side up. Microwave on high for 5 minutes. Allow the squash to stand 5 minutes. (For a crunchier texture, microwave 4 minutes on each side.)

Repeat the procedure with the remaining half. Use a fork to scoop out the strands of squash. Squash may also be steamed until tender.

A squash weighing 1 3/4 pounds yields about 2 cups cooked and shredded flesh, serving 4 as a side dish.
   

Spaghetti Squash Pie
  
Honey replaces sugar and yogurt stands in for evaporated milk in this pie. The yogurt is drained to thicken it. Non-fat yogurt will work in this recipe. To pour honey easily, lightly oil the measuring cup.
   
For the crust
1 ¼ cups all-purpose flour
½  teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons sugar
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1 large egg

Combine the flour, salt and sugar in a food processor. Add the butter and pulse until mixture is crumbly. Add the egg and process just until mixture forms a soft dough.  

Using floured fingers, press the dough onto the bottom and sides of a 9-inch pie pan. Chill the dough 30 to 60 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350º. Line the crust with foil and fill with pie weights. Bake 20 minutes. Remove foil and weights and allow the crust to cool.

For the filling
1 cup plain, unsweetened yogurt
2 cups cooked and shredded spaghetti squash
1-inch piece of fresh ginger, grated
1 teaspoon grated orange zest
3 large eggs
1/2 cup honey
1 tablespoon flour
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

Place the yogurt in a fine sieve and allow to drain for 30 to 60 minutes.   

Preheat oven to 400º.

Place the squash in a mixing bowl. Add the ginger and orange zest and toss. Combine drained yogurt, eggs, honey, flour, cinnamon, cloves and salt in a blender and blend until smooth. Pour the mixture into the squash and combine well. Fold in the walnuts.
 
Ladle the squash mixture into the partially-baked pie crust. Bake 20 minutes. Lower oven heat to 350º. Bake until a skewer comes out clean, about 30 minutes longer.
 
Cool the pie on a rack. Serves 8.