LOVE THE FISH YOU’RE WITH

 

Sorropotún is a Cantabrian fishermen's stew of albacore tuna and potatoes.

Summer is the season for fresh albacore tuna, in Spanish known as bonito del norte or atún blanco, white tuna. Fished off the Cantabrian coast (northern Spain), albacore is commercially important for the canning industry.

I love albacore for sashimi (raw), for grilling and for fish stews. But here it is, almost fall, and somehow I kept missing the albacore (Thunnus alalunga) in local markets. I will just have to go with what I’ve got, love the fish I’m with. I’ve got some big pieces of listado, skipjack tuna (Katsuwonus pelamis), in the freezer in anticipation of sashimi. I marinated bonito (Sarda sarda, not the same as bonito del norte) for a cold escabeche salad. Today I found a smaller fish of the same family, melva, or frigate mackerel, to make the fishermen’s stew. 

Like bluefin tuna, melva is dark red.

Unlike albacore which is very light-fleshed, these alternative fish, like atún rojo, bluefin (Thunnus thynnus), are dark, bloody red. To lighten them Spanish cooks usually soak the fish in ice water with salt and vinegar before cooking . 

This Cantabrian stew of albacore and potatoes, called sorropotún or marmita, was traditionally made on board fishing vessels with simple ingredients—chunks of fish, potatoes, wine, olive oil, dry choricero peppers. You can embellish it as you like—fish stock instead of water, herbs, spices. 

Choricero and ñora are two kinds of bittersweet (not hot) dry peppers. After the peppers have cooked awhile, their flesh is scraped from the insides and incorporated in the stew. Pimentón (paprika) is a simple substitute or else puree roasted red bell peppers or piquillos in a blender to make a red paste. 

The preferred technique for cutting up the potatoes is called chascar. Instead of slicing or dicing them with a knife, you snap off irregular-sized pieces that release starch that thickens the stew in cooking. Use the knife to cut into a potato, then bend it towards you to break off the chunk of potato. 

The stew traditionally was served with strips of stale bread on top to soak up the juices. A very tasty way to do this is to top the servings with croutons of fried bread or croutons that have been crushed to crunchy crumbs.

Potatoes, green peppers, onions and red pepper paste are the basis of the stew. Add pieces of fish once the potatoes are tender. 

Crunchy crumbs of fried bread top a serving of the stew.

Cantabrian Fishermen’s Stew

Sorropotún

After soaking, fish is not so dark red.

1 pound filleted and skinned fresh albacore tuna or substitute

1 teaspoon vinegar (optional)

Salt 

3 tablespoons olive oil

½ cup finely chopped onion

½ cup green pepper cut in strips

¼ cup roasted red peppers or piquillo peppers or 2 tablespoons choricero pulp

1 teaspoon pimentón (paprika, not smoked)

¼ cup white wine

1 pound potatoes

1 bay leaf

Fennel, thyme or oregano (optional)

3 cups fish stock or water

Freshly ground black pepper

Chopped parsley

Strips of bread or crunchy croutons (optional)

Cut the tuna into bite-size pieces. If desired, place it in a bowl, cover with cold water. Add vinegar and ½ teaspoon salt. Cover and refrigerate 30 minutes. Drain well before cooking.

Cook potatoes in water or stock.

Heat the oil in a cazuela or deep skillet. Sauté the onions on medium heat until softened, 3 minutes. Add the green pepper and sauté 2 minutes more.

Puree the red or piquillo peppers in a blender with the pimentón and wine. Stir into the pan and cook 2 minutes. 

Peel the potatoes and snap them into bite-size pieces. Add potatoes to the pan with the bay leaf, herbs if using and fish stock or water. If using water, add 1 teaspoon of salt. Add the pepper. Cook on medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Add the drained tuna and cook until it loses its pink color, 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to stand 5 minutes before serving. Garnish with chopped parsley. If desired, serve the stew topped with strips of bread or croutons.

More recipes for types of tuna:

Pot-Roasted Tuna.

Fish Cakes with Bonito.

Poke Bowl with Bonito.

Basque Tuna-Potato Stew (Marmitako).

Grilled Tuna with Onion Confit.

Marinated Bonito with Olives.