BEEFING UP MY KNOW-HOW ABOUT MEAT CUTS

 I’m still thinking about pot roast (see my reference to the subject here.). I decided to try it using beef brisket. The dictionary translates “brisket” into Spanish as “falda.” So, without further research, I asked the butcher for falda. 

But lexicographers  may not know anything about butchering a cow. From consulting the on-line diagrams of beef cuts, American and Spanish, it looks to me like brisket is “pecho” and “falda” is flank. Unless it’s “skirt,” which is actually what “falda” means. When I read up about flank, I learned that it’s usually grilled rare on a hot fire and thinly sliced for fajitas. Longer cooking means tough meat. Uh oh. Does not sound like the juicy, tender pot roast beef I was after. And I had 3  pounds of it!

I trimmed off the fat. I sliced off a ¾-pound hunk and cooked it rare on a grill pan. Sliced thinly across the grain and heaped on warm tortillas with all the trimmings, it was terrific—juicy, a little chewy, beefy. But, my pot roast— 

Long story short—the flank, if that's what it was, made a pretty good pot roast, very tender and not at all stringy, which is what I was dreading. Flank is a very lean cut, with no marbling to keep it moist during braising. I used lots of olive oil. Wine and brandy beefed up the flavor. I pot-roasted the meat in the oven, but, I’m sure a pressure cooker or Instant Pot would do the meat nicely in much less time.

Beef flank, oven roasted with wine, onions, carrots and herbs.

After two hours in the oven, meat is very tender and fairly moist, if not exactly juicy.

Pan juices make a flavorful sauce to accompany the meat.

The carrots roasted with the beef. Sauteed peppers, onions and zucchini are a quick and colorful side dish (they also go with fajitas). Mashed potatoes or fries go well with the beef too.

Pot-Roasted Beef Flank

Falda de Ternera Asada

Trim off fat and connective membrane on the outside of the flank. If using brandy (optional; I used Brandy de Jerez), you can set it alight to burn off the alcohol, if you like, or just boil it briefly before adding the next ingredient.

If possible, brown the meat and the onions in a pot that can go straight to the oven. Otherwise, brown them in a skillet and transfer to an earthenware cazuela or roasting pan. The pan does not need to be covered. 

Fresh thyme, if available, adds a wonderful aroma to the meat while it’s braising. 

After removing the meat from the oven, let it stand 5 to 10 minutes before slicing it across the grain. Cook the liquid remaining in the roasting pan with additional stock to reduce it. Sieve the liquid and discard the solids—onions and herbs. Serve the sauce with the meat. 

Spanish style, the meat would be served accompanied by patatas fritas, Spanish fries. The fries are not expected to be crisp, but are added right to the meat sauce. But you could add peeled potatoes to the pot to roast alongside the beef flank.

Use beef flank, skirt or brisket.

Serves 4-6.

2 pounds trimmed beef flank, skirt or brisket 

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Flour to coat meat

1/3 cup olive oil

2 onions, sliced julienne

6 cloves garlic

2 tablespoons brandy (optional)

1 cup white wine

Sprigs of fresh thyme

Bay leaf

1 ¾ cups beef stock or water

Carrots (optional)

Season the meat generously with salt and pepper. Allow it to come to room temperature. Dust the meat on all sides with flour. Pat off excess flour.

Preheat oven to 400ºF.

Brown meat before adding wine.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a heavy skillet or Dutch oven. On moderate heat, brown the meat on both sides. Remove the meat. Add 2 tablespoons more oil. Add the onions to the pan. Sauté the onions until they begin to brown on the edges, 5 minutes. Lightly crush the (unpeeled) garlics and add them to the onions. 

Add the brandy and either flambé it or allow the alcohol to cook off. Add ½ cup of the wine. Scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Place the meat on top of the onions. Tuck sprigs of thyme and bay leaf around the meat. Drizzle 2 tablespoons of oil over the meat. 

Place the pan in the oven and immediately lower temperature to 350ºF. Roast the meat for 30 minutes. Pour over the remaining ½ cup of wine and any remaining oil. Return to the oven for 30 minutes. 

Turn the piece of meat. Add carrots to the pan, if desired. Add about ½ cup of stock or water. Roast 30 minutes longer, adding stock as necessary, so there is always some liquid in the bottom of the pan. Baste the meat with the juices. 

Roast until meat is tender when tested with a fork, about 30 minutes more (total roasting time, about 2 hours). 

Remove the pan from the oven. Transfer the meat to a cutting board. Place the carrots, if using, on a heated platter. Add remaining stock to the onions and juices remaining in the pan. Set the pan over medium heat and cook until slightly reduced. Strain the liquid into a heat-proof bowl, pressing on the solids. Discard the herbs and crushed solids. 

Carve the meat across the grain. Spoon some of the reduced pan juices over the meat. Serve the rest alongside.

More recipes for braised beef:

Braised Oxtail.

Rustic Beef Stew.

Oven Braised Beef Cheeks.

Slow-Cooked Beef Shank.

Boiled Beef Brisket (Cocido).