Blue as in blue fish. From the enormous bluefin tuna (atún rojo) to tiny fresh anchovies (boquerones, bocartes) and including a delicious array in between—swordfish (pez espada), albacore (bonito del norte), frigate mackerel (melva), skipjack (listado), bonito, mackerel (caballa), horse mackerel (jurel), trout (trucha), amberjack (pez limón), and sardines (sardinas)—their best season is summer. (Salmon also is a blue fish, but I’ve intentionally omitted it from the list because it is represented in Spanish markets solely by farmed fish from Norway.)
Not all blue fish are blue. Although many are deep blue to silvery-blue, some such as red mullet (salmonete) are not. Blue fish are fatty fish whereas white fish, such as cod, are lean. Blue fish are especially rich in omega 3, the fatty acid that is known to be protective of heart health. They have deeply forked tails in contrast to lean fish with rounded tails.
In Spain, the almadraba tuna fishing season is just ending. The almadraba is a very ancient way of fishing tuna. The Phoenicians, who colonized southern Spain more than 3000 years ago, devised a system of capturing the tuna as they migrated from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. The almadraba nets, forming long chambers, like a series of corrals, are anchored to the bottom. Tuna swimming through on their migration to spawn in the Mediterranean are trapped in the nets. Fishermen in boats pull the nets into a tightening circle, until the huge fish are trapped in the middle. The men gaff them and haul them on board. It is an amazing sight.
The following recipe for grilled tuna with a red wine sauce might be made with any variety of tuna. The fish, cut in steaks or cubes, can be grilled medium-rare, especially apt for bluefin, or slow-cooked right in the sauce.
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| Tuna steak is grilled on a plancha, grill pan, served with red wine sauce and potatoes. |
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| Red wine sauce with diced vegetables complements the meaty tuna steaks. |
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| Too rare for you? Grill the tuna a little longer for medium. |
Grilled Tuna with Red Wine Sauce
Atún a la Plancha con Salsa de Vino Tinto
Moroccan preserved lemons add a briny accent to the sauce. If not available, substitute a spoonful of capers. The tuna can be grilled on a plancha, a heavy grill pan, or, in full summer mode, on a gas or charcoal grill.
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| Thick-cut tuna steaks are best. |
Serves 4.
3 tablespoons olive oil + more to sear the tuna
1 cup chopped onions
½ cup diced carrots
2 cloves chopped garlic
1 cup diced mushrooms
½ cup diced zucchini
1 cup peeled and diced tomatoes
½ cup red wine
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Chopped preserved lemon (optional)
Chopped parsley to garnish
Pine nuts, toasted, to garnish (optional)
4 tuna steaks, each 6-8 ounces
Heat the oil in a skillet on medium and sauté the onions and carrots until onions are softened, 5 minutes. Add the garlic, mushrooms, and zucchini and continue frying 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, turn up the heat and cook until tomatoes are reduced slightly. Add the wine and salt and pepper to taste. Cook the vegetables until the carrots are tender and liquid reduced, 10 minutes. Stir in the lemon, if using.
Season the tuna with salt and pepper. Lightly oil a grill-pan (plancha) or heavy skillet and place on high heat. Grill the tuna steaks to desired degree of doneness (1 minute per side for medium rare). Serve the tuna accompanied by the wine sauce. Garnish with parsley and pine nuts.
Get it on with summer blues:
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