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| (See below for where to order.) |
My new cookbook, Flavors of al-Andalus, traces the roots of many traditional dishes of Spanish cuisine back to al-Andalus, medieval Spain. They are dishes that people still cook and eat today, the food you might find in a tapas bar in Sevilla, at a village fiesta, or on the dinner table in a pueblo home.
How did I choose which recipes to include? Going through my always expanding files of Spanish recipes, I started with those that, in my opinion, are delicious, that I wanted to cook and eat. Then I narrowed them down, choosing, first, dishes with names derived from Arabic, the lingua franca in al-Andalus (for example, albóndigas, meatballs, pictured on the book's cover). I eliminated those with tomatoes, potatoes, or peppers (vegetables unknown in medieval Spain) or pork (not eaten by the Muslim population of al-Andalus).
Lastly, I selected recipes that resemble those mentioned in Andalusí cookbooks dating from the 10th to the 15th centuries.
My most important reference in searching for old recipes was Best of Delectable Foods and Dishes from al-Andalus and al-Maghrib: A Cookbook by Thirteenth-Century Andalusi Scholar Ibn Razīn al-Tujībī (1227–1293); translated by Nawal Nasrallah (Brill; 2021).
In Flavors of al-Andalus I frequently cite Nawal’s translation of the 13th century author, al-Tujībī, in describing the era’s influence on modern-day cooking. One example is the recipe for Baked Rice with Lamb and Egg Topping, a dish detailed in the al-Tujībī cookbook that is still made today in the Alicante region.
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| Nawal Nasrallah, food historian |
Nawal Nasrullah, who is Iraqi, currently resides in New Hampshire. She is a food writer and historian, literary scholar, and translator of Arabic into English. She is known for her cookbook of Iraqi cuisines, Delights from the Garden of Eden, and for translations from Arabic to English of medieval Arabic cookbooks such as the previously mentioned al-Tujībī manuscript and, her newest work, another 13th century Andalusí cookbook by an anonymous author, Smorgasbords of Andalusi and Mahgribi Dishes.
I am so honored that Nawal gave my book, Flavors of al-Andalus, a wonderful advance review. An excerpt from what she wrote appears on the back cover of my book.
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| (Alhambra, Granada, by Julio Sevillano) |
Here is the more of the review from Nawal:
“With a half-dozen cookbooks on regional Spanish food already under her belt, Janet Mendel, an-award winning food writer, embarks on a journey to explore the culinary legacy of Spain by tracing its roots to medieval al-Andalus.
“With her insider’s knowledge of the region, she expertly guides us through the vibrant food markets and traditional kitchen pantries, providing a comprehensive glossary. She clearly articulates the significance of al-Andalus and traces the historical evolution of contemporary cooking techniques. This includes an exploration of how certain food names, ingredients, and even place names have been transformed from their medieval Arabic origins. These insights are tastefully interwoven throughout our journey. For example, we discover how the city of Almagro derived its name and sample its renowned eggplant pickles. We learn about the bitter oranges that flourish on trees lining the streets of Andalusia and how, historically, their juices were used to enhance many dishes with their intense and aromatic flavor.
"[Flavors of al-Andalus] is an exciting journey of discovery that invites you to explore the rich tapestry of Spanish cuisine, steeped in history, and inspired by the unique flavors of medieval al-Andalus.”
Thanks, Nawal!
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Nawal has a recipe on her blog page, Recipes from al-Andalus – The Andalusi Kitchen, for "Candy Bracelets." They are charming rings made of almond marzipan and taffy, confected for children. The recipe, which comes from the anonymous 13th century cookbook, is somewhat similar to a present-day sweet from Toledo. Here is the recipe for "Toledo Marzipan Rings" as it appears in Flavors of al-Andalus.
Toledo Marzipan Rings
Melindres de Toledo
Marzipan (mazapán in Spanish) is a paste made by grinding and kneading sweet almonds with sugar. It is shaped into charming figures, glazed and decorated. The center of production of marzipan is the medieval city of Toledo, southwest of Madrid. Marzipan evolved from an Arabic sweetmeat that was introduced to Spain by the Moors and was confected by the Sephardic community of Toledo.
In 1085 Christian armies under King Alfonso VI took Toledo from the reigning Arabs. After the Reconquest, the art of confecting marzipan was kept alive in convents in Toledo. Cloistered nuns prepared the sweets as gifts to their benefactors.
Variations on marzipan are popular in many Muslim countries for Eid al-Fitr, the joyous celebration at the end of Ramadan fasting. Sephardic Jewish communities in many parts of the world serve marzipan delicacies for wedding feasts and other festive occasions. In Spain, the sweet is especially beloved at Christmas.
Most marzipan is professionally made in the Toldedo’s obradores, confectioners, which create beautiful figures and sculptures molded from the almond-sugar paste. But it is simple enough to make at home. These tiny rings are a good starting point.
The melindres make delightful Christmas cookies. If you start with whole almonds, after blanching and skinning them, toast them briefly in the oven before grinding. You can substitute unsweetened almond meal. Add only enough water to make a mixture that sticks together—very little in the case of fresh almonds, more for floury almond meal.
Makes 35 (2-inch) rings
2 ½ cups unsweetened ground almonds
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
8 to10 teaspoons water
1 egg white
1 cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Combine the ground almonds and granulated sugar in a blender or food processor and grind until very smooth. Add water, one teaspoon at a time, processing until the almond mixture forms a smooth mass that sticks together. The almond dough should be soft enough to mold. Turn it out onto a marble slab and knead briefly.
Preheat oven to 300ºF.
Divide the almond mixture into balls about the size of a pecan. Roll each one into a cord, 4 ½ inches long and about 3/8 inch in diameter. Bend the cord to make a circle, pinching the ends together. (If the almond dough breaks just pinch together the broken bits.) Place the rings on a baking sheet lined with parchment.
Bake the rings 10 minutes. Cool them on a rack.
Combine the egg white and sifted confectioners’ sugar. Beat at high speed for 3 minutes. Add the lemon juice and beat 2 minutes longer.
Dip the rings into the egg white glaze. Use a skewer to drag the rings through the egg white. Lift the rings out and let excess drip off. Place them on a baking sheet and return to the oven for 8 minutes. Remove and cool the rings on a rack.
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FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS
The Culinary Legacy of Spain
Ask for Flavors of al-Andalus from your favorite bookseller or click below to order.
This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking.
Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times. Dishes from this era include exotic spices such as saffron, the use of fruits and almonds with savory dishes, and honeyed sweets and pastries. The flavors of al-Andalus live on in modern Spanish cooking and are what makes Spain’s cuisine distinctive from the rest of Europe. (Hippocrene Books)
Use PROMO CODE HIPPOCRENE40 for 40% off on all Hippocrene titles at IndiePubs online bookstore.
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