Saturday, October 29, 2022

NOT PAELLA—RICE WITH RIBS AND MUSHROOMS

 
A rice dish with chunks of ribs, mushrooms and beans. 

Here’s the perfect dish for using the season’s wild mushrooms. The only problem is, I don’t have any wild mushrooms. Prolonged drought in much of Spain has slowed the appearance of the boletus, níscalos (saffron milk cap) and other autumn mushrooms. So, I'm making this--a rice dish that's not paella--with cultivated oyster mushrooms. 


You could use any mushroom, foraged or cultivated, and, depending on the season, change off the vegetable add-in. For example, I’m using end-of-season green beans. In the winter, chard or other greens will be nice. With spring’s chanterelles or gurumelos, asparagus, artichokes or fava beans would be ideal.

Not saffron, but pimentón adds color and depth of flavor to the rice.


The rice is not "dry," like paella, but meloso, juicy.



Change the mushrooms and vegetables with the seasons. Here, green beans and cultivated oyster mushrooms.

Bands of fat on the ribs keep the meat juicy and flavor the rice.


The rack of ribs needs to be cut lengthwise in thirds, then cut crosswise, between the bones, making small pieces. Unless you’re clever with a cleaver, best to have the butcher do the cutting. To eat, you can either cut the meat off the bones with knife and fork or, for a family meal, let everyone chew the meat off the bones. Pass the paper towels!

Use the same type of rice as for paella, a medium-short-grain variety. Bomba is especially good. This rice is not cooked “dry,” as for paella, nor “caldoso,” soupy. It’s arroz meloso, or slightly juicy. Cook the rice in a paella pan, deep skillet, flat-bottomed wok or earthenware cazuela.


Rice with Ribs and Mushrooms
Arroz con Costillas y Setas


Serves 4.

1 ¼ pounds spareribs, cut into 1 ½ -inch pieces
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon vinegar
 3 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
½ cup chopped red bell pepper
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 teaspoon sweet pimentón de la Vera (smoked paprika)
¼ teaspoon pimentón picante (hot paprika)
½ cup crushed tomatoes
1/3 cup white wine
5 cups hot water
1 bay leaf
Sprig of thyme
2 cups medium-short grain rice, such as Bomba
1 cup cooked green beans, cut in short pieces 

Brown the pieces of ribs.

Season the pieces of ribs with salt, pepper and vinegar. Allow to come to room temperature.

Heat the oil in a paella pan, large skillet or cazuela. Add the meat and brown it, turning to brown all sides, 5 minutes. Add the onion, red pepper and garlic. Sauté until onions are softened and beginning to brown, 3 minutes. 

Sprinkle the two kinds of pimentón over the ingredients in the pan. Add the tomatoes and cook 1 minute. Add the wine and cook off the alcohol, 2 minutes. Add 2 cups of the hot water and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook the ribs, covered, until they are almost tender, 15 minutes. Taste for salt and add additional if needed.




Stir in the rice. Add remaining 3 cups of hot water. Bring to a boil and cook, uncovered, on high heat for 5 minutes. Lower the heat and cook until rice is al dente tender, about 14 minutes. Add the green beans. Remove the pan from the heat. Cover and allow to set 5 minutes before serving. Discard the bay leaf and thyme.



More melosa rice dishes:





Saturday, October 22, 2022

MY SUGAR-FREE BIRTHDAY CAKE

My usual dilemma: what to serve guests for dessert—in this case, my birthday cake—when I do not eat anything with sugar? Certainly, I’ve been known to serve desserts and simply abstain. But, on this occasion, I want to partake of my own celebration!


Here is my trial run—a spice cake sweetened with fruit and an artificial sweetener. I’m quite pleased with it. I intend to double the recipe to make a larger cake for my gathering. What do you think, should I do it in two layer cake pans, a sheet pan, springform, bundt pan or cupcakes?

The taste-test: Is this sugar-free applesauce cake good enough to serve to guests?


It's my birthday and it's good enough for me! The cake is light and moist, sweet enough, in my opinion.  Now to freeze it and see if it's good after defrosting.


Serving options: for me, a sprinkle of cinnamon and a dollop of Greek yogurt.


Or, for those who want it sweeter, a drizzle of honey. 


Nobody needs to know the cake has no sugar. Nobody needs to know it’s made with apples and prunes. Maybe I’ll call it “spice cake”. Dried figs, also intensely sweet, could be used instead of prunes to make the applesauce. 

The apples and prunes provide sweetness, but I added a non-caloric sweetener (edulcorante) as well. I used ¼ cup of a powdered preparation containing stevia (Natreen), which is not the same as powdered stevia. I’ll make a spoon sauce using local honey cooked with cream. Folks who want something really sweet can spoon the sauce over the (plain) cake.  

The cake freezes well, so can be made in advance. The recipe makes one 9-inch cake. It can be simply doubled for two layers or a larger pan. (Larger pan will require longer baking time. 

Applesauce-Prune Spice Cake
Bizcocho de Manzanas y Ciruelas Pasas

As sweetener, I used ¼ cup of a powdered preparation containing stevia (Natreen), which is not the same as powdered stevia . If you are using a different sweetener, adjust the quantities according to package directions. (If in doubt, taste the batter.)

The cake freezes well, so can be made in advance. The recipe makes one 9-inch cake. It can be simply doubled for two layers or a larger pan. (Larger pan will require longer baking time.) 

Makes one (9-inch) cake, serving 8.

1 cup flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
½ teaspoon allspice
1 egg
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil + additional for greasing the cake pan
Sweetener (optional)
1 cup apple-prune sauce (recipe follows)
1 teaspoon grated ginger
Grated orange zest
Pinch of aniseed
2 tablespoons orange or lemon juice
¼ cup ground almonds (unsweetened)
Cinnamon, to serve (optional)
Greek yogurt, whipped cream or ice cream (optional)
Honey, to serve (optional)

Lightly oil a 9-inch cake pan and line with baking parchment. Preheat oven to 350ºF.

Sift together the flour, soda, salt, cardamom and allspice. Place the egg in a mixing bowl and beat until light and lemony in color. Beat in the oil and the powdered sweetener, if using. Add the apple-prune sauce, ginger, orange zest and aniseed. Beat in half of the flour and other dry ingredients. Beat in the juice. Fold in the remaining dry ingredients and the ground almonds.

Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan. Bake until the cake begins to pull away from the sides of the pan and a thin skewer comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Cool the cake in the pan 15 minutes. Unmold the cake onto a rack and allow to cool completely.

If to be served immediately, place the cake on a serving platter. If to be frozen, wrap the cake in plastic wrap and seal in a freezer bag. 

Apple-Prune Sauce
Puré de Manzanas y Ciruelas Pasas

A thick sauce of apples plus prunes sweetens the cake. 

I made enough apple-prune sauce to make a second, larger cake next week.

Sweet pears can be substituted for the apples and dried figs for the prunes.

Makes 3 cups pureed apples and prunes.

1 ¾ pounds apples (5 medium)
1 tablespoon lemon juice
10 ounces pitted prunes
2-inch cinnamon stick
Pinch of ground cloves
¼ cup sweet wine (muscatel)

Peel and core the apples. Chop them and place in a pan. Add the lemon juice. Cut the prunes in halves or quarters and add to the pan. Add the wine. Place on medium-high heat until liquid begins to boil. Reduce the heat and simmer the fruit, covered, until very soft, about 20 minutes. Stir from time to time to prevent scorching. Add a little water if necessary.

Remove the pan from the heat. Discard the cinnamon stick. Use an immersion blender to blend the fruit to a puree. Keeps, covered and refrigerated, up to a week.

More sugar-free cakes:



Saturday, October 15, 2022

A RUSTIC STEW FOR OLIVE PICKERS

 

I’ve invited some friends to come round and help me with the olive picking. I plan to serve a merienda de aceituneros, olive pickers’ lunch. In advance, I’m trying out some easy, rustic dishes that I can serve to a crowd. 


In bygone times, when transport was on foot or by mule, olive pickers would spend the whole day in the olive groves, pausing for a midday meal cooked outdoors. Cured foods such as sausages and dry salt cod were packed along with bread and oil. 

That’s what inspired this potato stew. The traditional La Mancha version of this stew is made with salt cod. 

I’m going to serve ibérico ham as the centerpiece of the lunch, so I want this dish to be vegetarian. I sure don’t want to be stirring the pot while everybody is out picking and drinking wine, so I’ll cook the potatoes the day before and reheat them at lunch time. This is my rehearsal. What do you think?

Potatoes cook in a sofrito with onions and peppers. Eggs are added right before serving.


A bowl of vegetarian potato stew. 


Olive Pickers’ Potato Stew
Pote Aceitunero con Patatas

Let whites set, then cut eggs into the potatoes.

On my first attempt at this dish, following the original recipe, I stirred the eggs into the hot potatoes. They thickened the sauce nicely, but I didn’t think they looked very appetizing. I liked the presentation better when the eggs were allowed to set on top of the potatoes, then broken up to serve (as for huevos rotos, if you’ve ever tried that terrific tapa dish). The runny yolks combined with the broth of the stew create the sauce. 

The best potato for this dish is para freir, a variety best for frying such as Agria, Kennebec and MonaLisa. You don’t want potatoes that will fall apart with reheating. Take care not to overcook them, as they will cook 5 minutes longer when the eggs are added.

Serves 4 as a main; 8 as a side.

2 pounds potatoes
1/3 cup olive oil
1 cup thinly sliced onions
1 cup green pepper, cut in strips
4 cloves garlic
1 dried red chile (optional)
1 teaspoon smoked pimentón (paprika)
½ teaspoon cumin
½ cup peeled and diced tomato
¼ cup white wine
2 cups water or stock + additional for reheating
Pinch of chopped fennel leaves or fennel pollen
Sprig of thyme or pinch of dried thyme
1 ½ teaspoons salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3-4 eggs
Chopped parsley to garnish
Chopped scallion greens to garnish

Peel the potatoes and cut them in bite-size chunks. Place them in a bowl and cover with cold water. Soak the potatoes 30 minutes or up to 2 hours. Drain them well and pat dry.

Fry potatoes in olive oil.
Heat the oil in a deep skillet on moderately high heat. Add the potatoes and carefully turn them in the oil. Allow them to fry without turning until they begin to brown on one side, about 1 minute. Turn and fry until slightly browned on the other side. The idea is to fry just enough to make a crust on all sides of the potatoes.

Use a slotted spoon or skimmer to lift the potatoes out of the oil and into a cazuela or pot. Add the onions and green pepper to the oil. With the side of a knife, lightly crush the cloves of garlic and add them, whole and unpeeled, to the oil with the chile, if using. 

Sauté the vegetables until onion is softened, 4 minutes. Stir in the pimentón and cumin. Immediately add the tomato. Let the tomato cook until it releases its liquid. Add the wine and cook off the alcohol. Add the water, fennel, thyme, salt and pepper. Bring the liquid to a boil, then reduce heat and let the potatoes bubble gently, uncovered, until they are nearly tender, about 10 minutes. There should still be some liquid left.

Break eggs on top of the potatoes.
If the potatoes are to be served the following day, transfer them to a covered container, cool and refrigerate. Let them come to room temperature before finishing the cooking.

Place the potatoes in a pan, adding enough water or stock so they are juicy. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until the potatoes are thoroughly heated. Carefully break 3 or 4 eggs on top of the potatoes. Cover the pan and continue cooking until the whites of the eggs are set, but the yolks still runny, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat. 

Sprinkle the eggs with a little salt and pimentón. Garnish with chopped parsley and scallion greens. Immediately before serving, use a knife and fork to cut up the eggs. Let the yolks mix with the potatoes. 



The stew is accompanied by cracked, brine-cured olives with garlic, fennel and thyme. These are the last of the previous year's olives. This year I haven't yet picked any for curing because I'm still waiting for a good rain to plump them. It may not happen---- The olives to be picked by my invited crew will be taken to the mill and exchanged for new oil. 


Related recipes:


Saturday, October 8, 2022

MONKFISH MASQUERADES AS LOBSTER

 I couldn’t resist the oferta—special price—for monkfish, so I bought a small one.  More than half the weight of monkfish (anglerfish in the U.K.; rape in Spanish) is the enormous head. The choice meat is the tail, which has only a center spine, easily removed, providing two fillets. The head and trimming are terrific for stock.


Monkfish is my choice for cutting into chunks for kebabs and for cooking in seafood stews and soups, because the firm flesh doesn’t disintegrate. Today, though, I’m making a cold dish, fake lobster, or rape alangostado.

Duplicity: not lobster, but a fillet of monkfish, rubbed with pimentón. Serve with a spoonful of (fake) caviar and real bubbly for an elegant dish. The sauce pictured is salsa rosa, pink mayonnaise with Sherry.


Medallions of fake lobster--monkfish--are served with a relish of corn and avocado. Pile this on a bun for a "lobster" roll. 


Pimentón adds the lobster coloring.

Monkfish has sweet-tasting, slightly chewy flesh, not unlike lobster, for which it can be substituted in any favorite recipe. Poaching the monkfish in a well-seasoned stock made with shells of lobster or shrimp adds true shellfish aroma. And, a little trompe l'oeil never hurts: rub the fillets with pimentón to mimic the reddish color of lobster meat.

Note: I wrapped one fillet with pimentón rub before cooking. The second fillet I poached in stock, then rubbed with pimentón and wrapped in plastic to chill. Results were about the same, so use whichever procedure you like.

For the deluxe treatment, serve the monkfish medallions with a spoonful of caviar (or fake it with lumpfish roe) and serve with Champagne (cava). Or, pile them in a bun and call it a “lobster” roll. Whether you’re faking it or not, this is a fine way to cook monkfish.

Use ordinary sweet pimentón (paprika), not smoked, for the rub. You can add a pinch of herbs if you like, but don’t overpower the natural sweet taste of the fish. The fish tails are rolled in plastic wrap (cling film) and poached. 

If you are starting with a whole monkfish, you will need a fish of about 2 1/2 pounds to provide 1 pound of boneless tail meat.

Use either fish or shellfish stock, if you have it, or salted water with a bay leaf and celery. After all, the fish encased in plastic is not benefitting much from the flavor-adding stock. Do save (freeze) the stock for soup another day.  If you are making stock with the monkfish head and trimmings, see the recipe here.

Unwrap poached fish and slice into medallions.

Use a shallow pan or deep skillet large enough to hold the fillets in one layer. Use enough stock/water to cover them. Take care not to overcook the fish. Keep the poaching liquid at a bare simmer. My small (4-ounce) fillets were done in 4 minutes. Figure 8 to 10 minutes for fillets weighing 8 ounces each. 

Drain the poached fish well, but don’t unwrap it. Chill at least 3 hours and up to 24 hours. Slice crosswise into medallions or shred the meat.








Monkfish “Lobster”
Rape Alangostado

To serve 4

1 pound boneless monkfish (2 [8-ounce] fillets)
2 teaspoons pimentón (sweet paprika, not smoked)
2 teaspoons water
¼ teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons olive oil
4-6 cups fish stock 
Optional accompaniments to the fake lobster:
Shredded lettuce
Cherry tomatoes
Strips of seaweed 
“Caviar” (salmon or lumpfish roe)
Salsa rosa, tartare sauce or mayonnaise
Drawn butter
Avocado-corn relish (recipe follows)

Remove and discard any skin or membrane from the fillets.

In a small bowl, combine the pimentón and water to make a paste. Stir in the salt and oil. Spread this mixture on all sides of the monkfish fillets. Place each fillet on a sheet of plastic wrap. Roll it up tightly and twist the ends and tie them with kitchen twine, like a sausage. 

Place the stock in a shallow pan or deep skillet large enough to hold the two fillets in one layer. Bring it to a full boil, then lower heat so the stock is barely simmering. Place the wrapped fillets into the stock and cover the pan. Poach the fish until cooked through, about 8 minutes for fillets that are about 8 ounces each. 

Remove the fillets from the pan and drain well. Do not unwrap them. Once cooled, refrigerate the fish until chilled, 3 hours or up to 24 hours. 

Unwrap the fillets and drain off any liquid. Use a sharp knife to cut them crosswise into medallions. Arrange the medallions on plates with lettuce and preferred garnishes or sauce. 


Avocado-Corn Relish
Picadillo de Maiz y Aguacate






½ cup diced celery
¼ cup diced red bell pepper
½ cup corn kernels
¼ cup chopped scallions
Fresh red chile, minced (optional)
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
3 tablespoons lemon juice
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon salt

Combine the celery, pepper, corn, scallions, chile, if using, garlic and parsley in a bowl. Stir in the lemon juice and oil. Season to taste with salt. 

Serve the relish immediately or refrigerate, covered, up to 2 days.




Sauces to accompany lobster, fake or not: 


More recipes with monkfish:





Saturday, October 1, 2022

LUSCIOUS MANGO TART

 

Mangos grown in Málaga, Osteen variety, are in season now.

My little mango tree again produced a single fruit. It was the best mango I’ve ever eaten, but it was soon gone. Happily, Málaga mangos are in season. I bought locally-grown ones from the couple who has a clothing shop that I pass on the way to the market. So, for a few weeks, I’m rolling in mangos. Besides breakfast, maybe a mango tart?


Luscious. no-bake mango tart has cuajada, cream cheese and whipped cream and is set with gelatin. An easy crumb crust doesn't need baking either. 


Diced fresh mango can be scattered on top of the tart before chilling or served alongside. Alternatively, cook the mango with sugar and ginger and spoon the fruit and syrup over the slices when serving.


Whipped cream makes a very rich mango mousse, but low-fat products can be used instead.


Option: instead of filling a tart shell with the mousse, spoon it into dessert coupes. They can be served chilled or frozen.


Mix and match the dairy components of this tart. At the bottom left are small cartons, of cuajada, unsweetened milk custard. Clockwise, above, is mascarpone, a cream cheese that can be substituted for the "original" cream cheese at the bottom. "Estilo griego" is thick Greek-style yogurt, much tangier than cuajada. On the upper right is "queso fresco batido," a no-fat, whipped fresh cheese, somewhat like cottage cheese in taste. On the right is "nata para montar," whipping cream. In the center is no-fat plain yogurt. Other ingredients, not shown, that could be used to make the mousse are requesón, which is similar to ricotta, and cottage cheese.

This week someone brought a lovely no-bake cheesecake with a fruit topping to a friend’s birthday party. The cheesecake wasn’t set with gelatin, but with cuajada. I was intrigued.

Cuajada, unmolded.

Cuajada is a sort of “custard” with no eggs. Cuajo, an enzyme (rennet or junket), sets the custard. Cuajada is, basically, the first step in cheese making. But, instead of cutting the curds and draining off the whey, the thickened milk is poured into cups and allowed to cuajar, set. Cuajada is served with honey, fruit and nuts, an old-fashioned traditional dessert in Euskadi (Basque Land).

In Spain, supermarkets sell packets of powdered ready-mix cuajada, similar to junket pudding mix in the U.S. This is what is used to make the no-bake cheesecake. The cuajada powder contains sugar, which I don’t use. Instead, I bought cups of prepared, ready-to-eat. unsweetened cuajada  in the dairy section. However, as the prepared cuajada was already coagulated, it wouldn’t work for setting the cheesecake. I used it as if it were yogurt or whipped cottage cheese to make a creamy, airy mango mousse with gelatin to fill the tart shell. 

You can mix and match the dairy components. Use yogurt, cottage cheese or ricotta to replace the cuajada. Use more cream cheese and less yogurt and call the tart a “cheesecake.” Use non-fat yogurt and reduced-fat sour “cream” for a less rich version. Or, up the quantity of fruit and decrease the dairy component. Total volume of ingredients, fruit plus dairy, should be about 5 ½ cups for the given amount of gelatin. 

Mangos (also figs) are so sweet that they hardly need added sugar in this dessert. Lemon juice points up their sweetness but isn’t needed to prevent oxidation, as mangos don’t darken with exposure to air. Most varieties of mango are somewhat fibrous. If you want an absolutely smooth mousse, after pureeing the fruit with the yogurt or cuajada and cream cheese, press the mixture through a sieve to remove fibrous bits. 

If you prefer a soft-set mango mousse, decrease the gelatin and place the cream in dessert cups instead of the tart shell. Serve it with a spoon. 

Use any favorite crumb crust, store bought, baked or no-bake. A 10-inch fluted flan ring with removable bottom is perfect for this tart, but it can also be made in a pie pan, springform mold or individual tart molds. (My tart, pictured, is smaller because I made the crumb crust first and then realized I had more than enough mango cream to fill it. The remainder filled four dessert cups.) Both the tart and dessert cups can be frozen. 

No-Bake Mango Tart
Tarta de Mango sin Horno

How many mangos? Depends on their size. A one-pounder will make enough chopped fruit for this recipe. Smaller ones, you'll need two or three. 

Easy way to cut a mango.
You can peel whole mangos, then slice the flesh from the flattened center pit. Or, place a whole mango upright on the cutting board and slice downwards on both sides of the pit. Instead of peeling, score the pulp with a sharp knife, then gently bend the mango half so that it opens up into segments. Cut them away from the skin.

Serves 10.

1 ½ cups chopped mango (12-14 ounces peeled and pitted)
4 tablespoons cold water
2 tablespoons unflavored gelatin
2 cups plain (unsweetened) cuajada or yogurt 
½ cup (4 ounces) cream cheese, softened
Zest of a small lemon
3 tablespoons lemon juice
½ teaspoon grated ginger
4 tablespoons sugar OR ½ teaspoon liquid stevia (optional)
1 ½ cups whipping cream, chilled
Crumb crust for a 10-inch pan (recipe follows)
Chopped fresh mango or mango in syrup, to serve

Peel and chop mangos to make 1 ½ cups. 

Place the water in a small bowl and sprinkle the gelatin into it. Allow to soak for at least 5 minutes.

Puree mango with yogurt.

Combine the cuajada or yogurt, cream cheese and chopped mango in a food processor or blender. Process until smooth. Add the lemon zest and juice and ginger. Taste the mango cream mixture. If it needs sweetening, add 2 tablespoons of the sugar OR ¼ teaspoon of the stevia. 

Add the softened gelatin to the processor and blend again until smooth.

Place the whipping cream in a large chilled bowl and, using chilled beaters, whip it until it holds soft peaks. Beat in remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar OR ¼ teaspoon of stevia.


Fold mango into cream.

Fold the mango mixture into the whipped cream until thoroughly combined. Spread the filling evenly in the crumb crust. Chill the tart at least 8 hours before serving.

Serve slices of the tart with chopped fresh mango or mango that has been cooked in sugar syrup with a piece of ginger. 


No-Bake Crumb Crust
Pastel de Galletas sin Horno

This crumb crust is not baked. It needs to be chilled before filling with the mango mousse, so make it first. Mix melted butter with cookie crumbs and press into a tart pan. Chill the crust or, if you’re in a hurry, place the tart pan in the freezer. 

In Spain, use galletas María, plain, not-too-sweet, cookies, to make the crumbs. Graham crackers or any cookie or cracker can be used. Grind them to crumbs in a food processor or place the cookies in a plastic bag and crush them with a rolling pin. Add crushed almonds or walnuts, if you like. If using cracker crumbs, you may want to add a spoonful of sugar to the crumbs.

Flavor the crust any way you like. I added crushed aniseed, but cinnamon would also be good. 

This crust can also be baked to make a crisper shell for the tart. (See below for more crust options.)



1 ½ cups cookie or cracker crumbs
Sugar (optional)
1/8 teaspoon aniseed, crushed
3 ounces unsalted butter, melted

Combine crumbs, sugar, if using, aniseed and melted butter. Mix thoroughly. Spread the mixture in the tart pan. Using hands or a flat utensil (bottom of a cup, for instance), press the crumb mixture firmly and evenly in the pan. Refrigerate at least 2 hours so the butter solidifies.










More recipes with mangos:







More recipes for tart crusts;