CHILLING OUT

 

Cold and sweet: horchata-mango ice cream.

August. Are you keeping cool? Getting your full ration of gazpacho? How about ice cream? I’ve got an ice cream recipe that’s a little different—made with a Spanish drink called horchata instead of with dairy milk or cream.

Horchata is a sweet, milky, icy drink famous in València, but found all over Spain. Horchata in Spain is made with chufas, tiger nuts, also called earth-nuts. Chufas are not actually nuts, but the tubers of a kind of sedge (Cyperus esculentus), a plant introduced to the València region by the Moors. 

Chufas/tiger nuts

Chufas grow underground. After digging, the tubers are washed then dried. The desiccated nuts, a little larger than almonds, are hard and dark brown. They taste like a combination of almonds and coconut. To make horchata, the chufas are first rehydrated by soaking in water. They are then mixed with fresh water, finely ground, and forced through a fine sieve. Mixed with sugar and flavored with lemon and cinnamon, the extract becomes horchata.    

The word horchata (Catalan orxata or orxata de xufas) derives from the Latin hordeata, a drink made of crushed barley. Over the centuries the drink was adapted, made variously with tiger nuts, almonds (the French “orgeat”), or rice (as in Mexico). 

Horchata is best from a horchatería, especially in València, where the drink is freshly made. But you can buy prepared horchata in cartons in almost any supermarket in Spain. In the US, you can order horchata online from Spanish import stores, such as Tienda.com. 

I seldom buy horchata because it’s loaded with sugar. But this year I discovered a version made with edulcorantes, artificial sweeteners, so I gave it a try. Served very cold, it is very refreshing on a hot afternoon. 

Horchata, either with sugar or sweetener, makes an excellent base for lactose-free ice cream. I'm thinking it would also be good in a piña colada, substituting horchata for the coconut cream and mango juice for the pineapple juice.

No ice cream maker necessary, the horchata-mango mixture is still-frozen, then whipped. This scooped version is somewhat grainy with ice crystals. The cream in the small cups, below, has added rum and Greek yogurt and is somewhat creamier and not as icy.

After beating smooth, the cream can be frozen in individual cups. Easier because you can soften only as many as you plan to serve.

Frozen fruit horchata hits the spot on a hot afternoon in August.

Tiger Nut Ice Cream

Helado de Horchata

My ice cream contains mango puree. Any pureed fruit (1 ½ cups)  could be used—strawberries, peaches, figs-- If the fruit puree is very tart you may wish to add sugar or sweetener to the already-sweetened horchata. Cornstarch adds creaminess to the frozen horchata but does require cooking then cooling. Adding alcohol keeps the ice cream from freezing hard (although 1 tablespoon makes little difference). Adding cream or Greek yogurt makes a richer cream—although it is no longer lactose-free. 

Use an ice cream freezer if you have one. Otherwise, remove the partially frozen cream from the freezer and whip it smooth before returning to freeze hard. 

You could substitute almond milk, either sweetened or unsweetened (add sugar to taste) or a combination of almond milk and (canned) sweetened cream of coconut.

Serves 4 to 6.

2 cups horchata

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 slice lemon

1 ½ pounds mangos (to make 1 ½ cups pulp)

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Sugar or sweetener (optional)

1 tablespoon dark rum or oloroso Sherry (optional)

½ cup heavy cream or Greek yogurt (optional)

Place ½ cup of the horchata in a small bowl. Stir the cornstarch into it until smooth. Place the remaining 1 ½ cups horchata in a saucepan with the slice of lemon. Heat the horchata-lemon until it begins to steam. Whisk in the cornstarch mixture and continue stirring until the mixture comes to a boil. Reduce heat and cook 1 minute. Skim out and discard the lemon slice. Let the horchata cool 10 minutes.

Peel the mangos and discard pits. Cut the flesh into chunks and place in a blender or food processor with the lemon juice. Blend until pureed. Add the cooled horchata and blend until smooth. Taste the mixture and add sugar or sweetener if desired. 

Place the mango-horchata mixture in a bowl (preferably metal for faster freezing) and cover with plastic film pressed onto the surface. Chill. Place the bowl in the freezer until partially frozen, 2 to 4 hours. 

Beat the mixture again (blender or food processor) until smooth. If desired beat in rum and cream. Return the bowl to freezer to freeze solid. (For an even smoother ice cream, remove it before frozen hard and beat again until smooth.) Or, if preferred, pour the cream into 6 (1/2-cup) glasses, place them on a tray and freeze.

Soften the ice cream before scooping.  

More about horchata and chufas here (and another summertime cooler, leche merengada).

***   ***   ***

FLAVORS OF AL-ANDALUS, The Culinary Legacy of Spain, published by Hippocrene Books, is now available from your favorite bookseller. For more about what’s in the book, see Meatballs with Backstory. See advance reviews at Advance Praise for Flavors of al-Andalus. 

This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times. Dishes from this era include exotic spices such as saffron, the use of fruits and almonds with savory dishes, and honeyed sweets and pastries. The flavors of al-Andalus live on in modern Spanish cooking and are what makes Spain’s cuisine distinctive from the rest of Europe. (Hippocrene Books)

$39.95 hardcover.

 Order on IndiePubs

***

Amazon:    -18% $32.66  List Price: $39.95

Order on amazon

ALTERNATIVE ICE CREAM

Ice cream with fresh plums.

No cream, no sugar. No ice cream maker either. Is it ice cream? Maybe not, but my house helado (the Spanish word for ice cream just means “frozen”) fills all the summer requisites—it’s icy-cold, refreshingly flavored and sweet to the taste.

My basic mix is pureed fresh fruit, a squeeze of fresh lemon juice, non-fat plain yogurt and enough artificial sweetener to sweeten the mixture to taste, which for me, is not too sweet.

Blend to break up icy chunks.

I use a hand-held blender to puree all the ingredients in a bowl. The bowl goes into the freezer until the mixture is partially frozen (about 2 hours). Then I use the blender again to beat it smooth and incorporate some air in the mix.

I pour the ice cream mixture into individual cups (juice glasses, about 2/3-cup capacity), place them all on a tray and return them to the freezer. That way, I can remove one or two cups at a time, rather than softening the whole batch to dipping consistency. Individual cups are also an easy way to serve a crowd.

My original helado recipe was with nectarines (unpeeled—the flecks of skin don’t bother me), yogurt and liquid sweetener (cyclamate/saccharin). Since then I’ve been spinning off variations.

Fresh fig ice cream.

I use whatever fruit is in season—strawberries, apricots, loquats, peaches, raspberries, figs, prickly pears (that recipe is here), mangos. This week I’m using up a basket of fresh plums (see another plum recipe here). I pureed the plums, then sieved the pulp to get rid of the skins.

The plums were tart, so I needed quite a lot of sweetener. Other fruits, such as mango, need hardly any sweetening. (Mango also creates an especially creamy emulsion.)

Stevia--a natural, no-cal sweetener.

Instead of liquid sweetener, this time I used stevia leaves picked from plants that I have growing in pots (thanks, Charlotte!). Stevia, also called “sweet leaf,” is intensely sweet with a slight bitter-herb flavor. The plums were so tart that a small handful of leaves, pureed with the fruit, did not provide sufficient sweetness. So I added stevia extract, a white, no-calorie powder commercialized under various brand names, until it was sweetened to my taste.

In my next batch of ice cream (peaches coming up), I will try steeping stevia leaves in hot milk, to see if the sweetness intensifies.

Whether you use an artificial or natural sweetener, including sugar or honey, I suggest adding it to the mixture little by little, to taste.  

For the dairy component, I use part no-fat yogurt, part full-fat Greek yogurt and part non-fat queso batido, a thick, creamy quark cheese somewhat like no-fat sour cream. For an especially rich and creamy ice cream, I use a small carton (about 1 cup) of mascaparone in place of the Greek yogurt.

The mixture of fruit, yogurt and quark adds up to about 6 cups, with the fruit puree making up between 1 and 2 cups of the total.

Fresh mint complements plum ice cream.

I also experiment with added flavorings. Mint goes well with plums and with prickly pears. Basil, rosemary or thyme pairs with nectarines and peaches. Ginger is a natural with mango. Figs want vanilla. Cardamom spices up apricots.

Creamy and icy at the same time.

This home-made ice cream needs to soften 15 to 20 minutes before serving. Then it’s creamy, but with a slight icy texture. Personally, I love it that way.

Some more ideas for home-made ice creams appear here.

Leche merengada, ice milk with egg whites and cinnamon.

TWO OUNCES OF HOME-GROWN SPANISH GOLD

 Saffron Flowers

Two ounces of home-grown Spanish gold—what a treasure! Nothing illicit here—I’m talking about saffron. I grew the precious spice in big flower pots from bulbs brought from La Mancha (central Spain), saffron’s home ground.

The flower is a type of crocus-- crocus sativus. These crocuses appear, not in the spring, but just in time for Halloween.

Saffron, the spice, consists of the dried stigmas of the small, mauve-colored, autumn-blooming crocus. The plant originated in the Middle East and was introduced into Spain by the Moors in the ninth century. Saffron became the flavor of status in medieval cuisine. It has been grown in Spain’s central La Mancha region ever since.

While I was collecting recipes and stories for my book, COOKING FROM THE HEART OF SPAIN, I visited La Mancha during the saffron harvest and followed the trail of this sensuous spice all the way from the field to the kitchen.

(I visited Bealar in Campillo de Altobuey (Cuenca), a small family-owned business established in 1959. It is the largest producer of saffron with the certification (denominación de origen) Azafrán de La Mancha.)

A field of saffron looks like nothing—clumps of muddy clay soil, stones, a few weeds—until you look closer and see the tiny flowers popping up from bare earth. Picking begins from the time the first few saffron flowers begin poking up through the dirt and continues daily. Depending on rain and temperature, this is anywhere from Oct. 25 to Nov. 5.

(Photo by Donna Ellefson)

The saffron flowers must be hand-picked early in the morning, before the petals open. Once warmed by the sun, the flowers open and become limp, making it harder to remove the stigmas. 

Crates filled with saffron crocuses are delivered to the mondaderas, the women who extract the three threads of the stigma from each crocus. The stigmas must be removed the same day that the flowers are picked or the flowers become pulpy and the precious stigmas are lost.

Deftly, the women open the petals of the crocus with the fingers of one hand and with the other, pull out the three stigmas. The purple flowers are discarded in a heap on the floor. The wisps of deep red saffron stigmas slowly accumulate on plates. Each woman will be paid by the weight of saffron she has prepared.

Once the saffron filaments are separated from the flowers they must be lightly toasted to reduce their humidity and to preserve their color and olfactory properties. The saffron is spread in sieves to dry over electric heating elements or, in the old way, over a brazier.

Traditionally, saffron production was a small, family enterprise, with each family planting no more than what its members could pick and process in a day—early morning in the fields, afternoon at the mondeo, the night tending the braziers for the drying operation.

Saffron thrives in only a few scattered areas in the provinces of Toledo, Cuenca, Albacete, and Ciudad Real. Saffron grown in this region that meets quality specifications can be certified with the Denomination of Origin Saffron of La Mancha (Azafrán de la Mancha). DO certification promotes product quality and helps to sustain the deeply rooted customs and foodways of small growers in La Mancha.

When cooking with saffron, crush the threads in a mortar (or, use the butt-end of a knife to crush it in a teacup) and add hot water or other liquid. Let the saffron infuse for at least 15 minutes before incorporating it into a sauce or rice.

Here is a saffron recipe from my book COOKING FROM THE HEART OF SPAIN—FOOD OF LA MANCHA.

Saffron Ice Cream with Pine Nut Praline and Chocolate Syrup
Helado de Azafrán, Guirlache de Piñones y Sirope de Chocolate

Saffron lends a golden color and an aromatic, subtly bitter flavor to the rich ice cream. Saffron has a real affinity for chocolate, while the pine nuts provide a crunchy contrast to the smooth cream. Altogether a delightful combination. Ice cream, praline, and syrup can all be made several days in advance of serving.

Serves 8.

For the ice cream:
2 cups milk
Strip of orange zest
½ teaspoon saffron threads, crushed
6 egg yolks
Pinch of salt
2/3 cup sugar
1 ¾ cups whipping cream

For the pine nut praline:
1/3 cup sugar
½ cup pine nuts

For the chocolate syrup:
4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, broken into pieces
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
½ cup boiling water
1 tablespoon sugar

Bring the milk and orange zest to a boil. Pour the milk through a sieve into a heatproof bowl and discard the orange peel. Add the crushed saffron to the milk and allow to infuse 20 minutes.

Beat the egg yolks, salt, and sugar in a bowl. Lift off the skin from the top of the milk and beat the warm milk into the yolks. Transfer to the top of a double boiler and cook the custard mixture over hot water until foamy and thick enough to coat a spoon. Remove from heat and allow to cool.

Whip the cream until it holds soft peaks. Fold it thoroughly into the custard mixture and chill.

Freeze the mixture in an ice cream maker.

To prepare the praline, place 3 tablespoons of sugar and 2 tablespoons of water in a heavy skillet or round-bottomed wok. On high heat dissolve the sugar, stirring.

When sugar is bubbling, stir in the pine nuts. Cook, stirring, until sugar begins to caramelize and adhere to the kernels. Add 2 tablespoons more sugar, and stir until it melts and turns golden. Add remaining sugar and continue stirring and cooking until pine nuts are coated in caramel.

Spread the mixture out onto an oiled plate or a sheet of baking parchment. Allow to cool. When completely cool, break the praline up into small bits. Store in a covered container for up to 1 week.

To prepare the chocolate syrup, melt the chocolate in the top of a double boiler over hot water. Stir until smooth. Stir in the oil, then the boiling water, then the sugar.

Place the saucepan over direct heat and cook, stirring, until it begins to bubble. Cook without stirring for 3 minutes. Remove and cool.

Makes ¾ cup syrup. Keeps refrigerated for up to 1 week. Can be reheated in a microwave to bring to pouring consistency.

To serve: Allow the ice cream to soften 20 to 30 minutes. Scoop ice cream into small bowls. Dribble with chocolate syrup and scatter praline on top.