EXUBERANT SPRING FRUITS

 

Loquats (nísperos) on the tree.

Does the scent of strawberries excite you? Does the burst of color from a bin of cherries make your heart beat faster? How about the golden glow of a basket of loquats? What? You don’t know about loquats? These could be your new springtime love.

I took a bag of loquats to give away to the chicas in my aerobics group. The Brits had never tasted loquats!. The Spanish turned them down—they’ve already got more locally-grown loquats than they can eat. The Moroccan women grabbed them up with delight! 

 

Easy to peel.

Let me tell you more about loquats (Eriobotrya japonica, nísperos in Spanish). Native to China, they arrived in Spain, via Japan, in the 19th century. A semi-tropical tree, the loquat thrives in the provinces of Alicante, Murcia, Granada, and Málaga. The yellow fruit is the size and shape of a large egg. It has a smooth, tough skin that is easily peeled—just strip it off with your fingers.

Split in half, the loquat reveals one, two, or three dark, nearly black pits. The flesh is yellow-orange to pale yellow. Loquats ripen earlier than apricots and, like apricots, they have a very brief season. 

The loquat is tangy-sweet, as juicy as a ripe peach (although not fragrant like peach). It could substitute for peach, raw or baked in a pie. 

Once cut up, loquats will oxidize and darken. To prevent this, cover them with cold water. You can add salt (1 tablespoon for 4 cups water) or lemon juice (3 tablespoons for 4 cups water), but plain water works just as well. 

I’ve made loquat chutney, loquat mousse, and the best ever spring fruit salad. The birds can have the fruits that remain, hanging just out of my reach.

Ingredients for chutney with loquats.

Loquats are a good fruit to use in making spicy chutney. Use the recipe here, substituting cut-up loquats for the mangos.

Loquat mousse made with gelatin.

To make the mousse: Cook 3 cups cut-up loquats and ¼ cup water with 3 cardamom pods and a strip of orange peel for 10 minutes.  Soften 4 sheets of gelatin in cold water. Squeeze out the water and add the gelatin to the cooked fruit and stir to dissolve. Discard the orange peel and cardamom husks. Place the fruit in a blender with 1½ cups of canned coconut milk or evaporated milk. Sweeten to taste with sugar, honey, or non-caloric sweetener. Chill the mixture. When partially set, beat it to make it fluffy and ladle into 6 (1/2-cup) dessert cups. Chill. 

An exuberant fruit salad for springtime.

Springtime Fruit Salad 

Ensalada con Frutas de Primavera

Use any combination of in-season fruits—loquats, strawberries, apricots, cherries, melon, watermelon, raspberries, peaches, blueberries, grapes, figs. I combined strawberries and loquats with kiwi and orange. While kiwis and oranges are not actually in season, they are available year-round. Citrus complements loquats. Combine fruits in any proportion to make approximately 4 to 5 cups sliced fruit. Make a syrup using jam and sweet Sherry instead of sugar. 

Serves 4 to 6.  

¼ cup strawberry jam

¼ cup oloroso Sherry

¼ cup water

1 ½ cups sliced strawberries (about 8 ounces)

1-2 sliced kiwis

1 large orange, peel grated and sections removed

2 ½ cups sliced loquats 

1-2 tablespoons lemon, lime, or sour orange juice

Whipped cream or Greek yogurt (optional)

To make a light syrup, combine the jam, Sherry, and water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and cook 1 minute. Remove from heat. If desired, strain the syrup and discard solids from the jam. Cool the syrup.

In a fruit bowl, combine the sliced strawberries, kiwis, and loquats. Grate the orange peel over the fruits, then peel the orange and separate the sections. Add them to the bowl. Squeeze the remaining membrane to extract all its juice. Add the juice with the lemon, lime, or sour orange juice. Gently combine the fruits. Either mix the syrup with the fruits or serve it separately for each person to add as desired. Serve with cream or yogurt, if desired.

Loquats stand in for mango in this chutney.

More recipes with loquats;

Loquat-Spinach Salad with Cheese.

Loquat Mousse (This version with egg.)

NEW! MEATBALLS WITH BACKSTORY

 

Meatballs with an Arabic backstory, Christmas cookies that are Jewish, and gazpacho with no tomatoes—these are just a few of the recipes in my new cookbook,

FLAVORS of AL-ANDALUS

The Culinary Legacy of Spain. 

Published by Hippocrene Books (New York), Flavors of al-Andalus will be out in August and is available for pre-order now.

These are 120 Spanish recipes with roots in an era before Spain was Spain, when al-Andalus was the name of the Islamic kingdom that comprised much of the Iberian peninsula from 711 CE until 1492. 

 Flavors of al-Andalus is not a historical cookbook. Although I referenced 13^th century Arabic cookbooks (in English translation by Nawal Nasrallah), I haven’t tried to recreate Andalusí recipes. This is food that reveals traces of al-Andalus in what people cook and eat today, the food you might find in a tapas bar in Sevilla, at a village fiesta, or on the dinner table in a pueblo home. It is the story of the Muslim influence on the Spanish cooking of today.

 All of the recipes are accompanied by photographs and many of them also tell stories about how these dishes from medieval times came to be in today’s kitchens.

 

In the Vegetables chapter: Winter Gazpacho with Oranges (Gazpacho de Invierno)

What’s on the menu? In the Vegetables chapter you’ll find a couple of versions of gazpacho plus “dunking salads” and salmorejo, all made without tomatoes. There’s an all-vegetable paella and several versions of tortilla with no potatoes. New ways with familiar vegetables: fried eggplant drizzled with molasses, carrots with mint, artichokes with oranges.

Fish and Shellfish: Lemony Fish Chowder (Gazpachuelo con Pescado)

 The Fish and Shellfish chapter is slightly weighted in favor of salt fish and marinades—a reminder of the fact that people had no refrigeration in al-Andalus. The recipes for salt cod and trout escabeche are every bit as popular today as they were in the 12^th century! Fresh seafood is featured in recipes such as shrimp fritters, fish in saffron sauce, roasted sardines with pine nuts and several unusual fish soups.

In the Meat, Poultry, and Game chapter: spicy Moorish Kebabs (Pinchitos Morunos)

The chapter on Meat, Poultry, and Game is meaningful for what’s missing—no pork, no ham, no sausage, meat so prevalent today. In al-Andalus neither Muslims nor the Sephardic Jews consumed pork. Instead there are delicious preparations such as chicken with pasta “rags,” lamb in garlicky sauce with pomegranate, braised beef with onion gravy, and a grand cocido, a no-pork version from Toledo. And, of course, those aforementioned meatballs with a savory saffron-almond sauce, pictured on the cover of Flavors of al-Andalus.

From Sweets and Breads, Crispy Olive Oil Cookies (Tortas de Aceite).

 

The Sweets and Breads chapter includes mantecados, a beloved Christmas cookie, made with olive oil instead of lard. There are also recipes—Moorish and more-ish—for a gooey-sweet jam-filled tart, almond-cream pudding, cakes, and cookies such as the famous tortas de aceite from Sevilla (pictured in the above page spread).  

 A section with menu suggestions for a tapas party, brunch, family meals (including vegetarian options), and holiday dinners makes it easy to use the recipes.

 I’ve enjoyed delving deep into the traditional cooking of Spain. I invite you to sample the flavors of al-Andalus. 

 Here’s where you can pre-order Flavors of al-Andalus

 

FLAVORS of AL-ANDALUS

The Culinary Legacy of Spain

This cookbook explores the fascinating story of the deep and lasting influences that Islamic culture has left on modern Spanish cooking. 

Author and Spanish cooking expert Janet Mendel tells the story of the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking through 120 recipes and photographs for modern-day dishes, from salads and vegetables to fish, poultry and meat to sweets and pastries, that trace their heritage to foods served in medieval times. Dishes from this era include exotic spices such as saffron, the use of fruits and almonds with savory dishes, and honeyed sweets and pastries. The flavors of al-Andalus live on in modern Spanish cooking and are what makes Spain’s cuisine distinctive from the rest of Europe.

$39.95 hardcover: Available in print and e-book in August 2025

 Pre-order on IndiePubs

Use PROMO CODE HIPPO40 for 40% off through June 30 on all Hippocrene titles at IndiePubs online bookstore.

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Pre-order on amazon

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If you would like to feature Flavors of al-Andalus on your blog, Substack, Instagram page, or newspaper-magazine column, contact pgress@hippocrenebooks.com to receive a digital review copy.

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A tapas spread--all recipes in Flavors of al-Andalus.

Hippocrene Books is a New York City-based independent book publisher specializing in foreign language dictionaries and self-study guides, international cookbooks, and history and travel titles. See their catalog Hippocrene Books - Hippocrene Books, Inc.

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NOT ALL PORK IS IBÉRICO

 

The secret: it's not ibérico pork.

I admit to being a snob when it comes to pork—I only eat meat from ibérico breed pigs. This is the pig from whence comes fabulous ibérico hams, the best of which are those from free-range animals finished on acorns in the Dehesa forestland. Even meat from non-acorn-fed, half-breed ibérico pigs is extremely expensive. It’s succulence makes it worth the price.

The ibérico pork aficionado learns a whole new terminology for cuts. Beyond the usual chuletas, chops, and solomillo, tenderloin, found in regular pig butchery, there are cuts named lagarto (lizard), pluma (feather), presa (prize piece), and secreto (secret).That’s because, once the hams and shoulders are removed for curing, the remaining meat is so highly valued that it gets divvied up into pieces sometimes too small to be worth bothering with ordinary pork. 

So I was surprised to find in my local supermarket a package of pork marked “secreto” that was not ibérico. Just pork from ordinary pigs (in Spain, mostly from the breeds Large-White and Duroc). It showed fine marbling of fat, a good sign.

 

The secreto—so-called because pork butchers often kept it for themselves--is a cut from below the pig’s shoulder (sometimes described as the “armpit”). It somewhat resembles beef skirt steak in that it is a flap of muscle with a lot of marbling. It can be used for slow braising or for quick searing. Seared on a grill pan or over coals and served medium-rare it’s chewy-tender, juicy, and full of flavor. (Ibérico pork is usually served medium-rare.)

I pan-grilled the secreto to medium—still pink in the thickest part—and served it with a sauté of red, green, and chile peppers, part sauce and part side dish. The non-ibérico secreto, while not as succulent as the real thing, was pretty darn good. 

Pan-grilled to medium, the pork is juicy.

Pepper sauté makes a side dish or sauce for the pork.

Pork Secreto with Pepper Sauté

Secreto de Cerdo con Fritada

For the pepper sauté, use any combination of peppers—red, green or yellow bell, green Italian frying peppers or chiles. In a pinch, canned pimentos or jarred piquillos could be used. A spoonful of vinegar complements the sweetness of the peppers. The pepper sauté is equally good with pork chops, steak, tuna steaks, or chicken breast.

Fat keeps the meat juicy.

Serves 4.

1 ¾ pounds pork secreto (2 or 3 pieces) 

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Pinch of thyme

Chopped garlic

Lemon juice

Olive oil

For the pepper sauté

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 cups peppers cut in strips

1 cup julienne-cut onions

2 cloves garlic, slivered

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon oregano

1 tablespoon Sherry vinegar

Remove some of the exterior fat and membrane or else cut through it so that it doesn’t tighten when cooked and cause the meat to curl. Sprinkle the pieces of pork with salt, pepper, thyme, garlic, and lemon juice. Allow them to come to room temperature.

Heat a grill pan or cast iron skillet on medium-high and brush it lightly with oil. Sear the pieces about 2 minutes per side. Remove them to a cutting board. Allow the meat to rest 5 to 10 minutes. To serve, slice the slabs of meat across the grain about ¾ inch thick. 

For the pepper sauté. Heat the oil in a skillet on medium. Sauté the peppers, onions, and garlic. Season them with salt and oregano. Cook until the peppers are very soft, 10 minutes. Add the vinegar, cover the pan, and turn off the heat so the peppers steam in their own juices. Serve the peppers hot.

Recipes with other cuts of ibérico pork (they can be used with ordinary pork as well):

Presa (top loin) Over Charcoal.

Plancha-Grilled Loin Chops.

Larded Pork Shoulder Roast.

Rice with Ibérico Pork and Ham.

Ibérico Tenderloins with Orange Sauce.

Ibérico Chops with Madroño Sauce.

Ibérico Ribs with Molasses Barbecue Sauce.  (Tip: cook the ribs in water first to eliminate some of the fat which causes flare-ups on the grill.)

IT’S BEEN A GOOD YEAR FOR THE ASPARAGUS

 

April showers bring May asparagus. Although there’s no asparagus in my garden, I’m buying  locally-grown asparagus by double bunches.

According to the growers’ association, Spain is estimated to produce about 60 million kilos (roughly 66,000 tons) of green asparagus this season, more than half of it in the province of Granada (Andalusia). Add in the pricey white asparagus, grown in Navarra and the Valle de Tietar (Extremadura), and it’s shaping up to be a good year for asparagus. (Much of the fresh white asparagus gets shipped to Germany for the spargelfest; the remainder is canned and is considered a delicacy in Spain.)

I confess to buying asparagus all year round, when it’s imported mainly from Peru at unbelievably low prices. But while it lasts, I am enjoying the Spanish crop. Usually I simply cook asparagus until just tender (lift a spear on a fork; if it bends slightly over the fork, it’s done). I serve it with mayonnaise, preferably homemade with extra virgin olive oil and a squeeze of sour orange juice. My next favorite way is in a revuelto, scrambled with eggs and mushrooms. Here are more ways to cook asparagus.

Rustic Asparagus Soup with Cheese Toasts (Sopa de Esparragos). This soup from La Mancha, made with either wild or cultivated asparagus, might have a pinch of saffron and cheesy toast on top. Poach an egg in the broth to add substance. The recipe is here.

White Asparagus Bisque with Saffron (Crema de Esparragos Blancos con Azafrán). From rustic (above) to posh. This soup is fit for a special occasion. Enriched with cream, the bisque can be made with fresh or canned white asparagus. See the recipe here.

Asparagus Frittata (Tortilla de Esparragos). This started out to be a revuelto or tortilla with asparagus and eggs. Because the oven was on, I set the pan in the oven to finish cooking. Sauté the chopped asparagus in olive oil with sliced garlic and (optional) chopped chard, zucchini, mushrooms, and bacon until asparagus is crisp-tender. Beat 4 eggs with 1/4 cup milk, salt and freshly ground black pepper. Pour over the vegetables, stirring until eggs begin to set. Place in medium-hot (375ºF) oven until eggs are set and just beginning to brown on top (about 8 minutes). Serve with grated cheese if you like. 

Eggs Scrambled with Asparagus and Shrimp (Revuelto de Esparragos con Gambas). My favorite lunchtime dish--revuelto, eggs scrambled with whatever vegetable is at hand. This version with shrimp might be served as a brunch dish for a crowd or heaped on toasts as an hors d'oeuvre. The recipe for the pictured revuelto is here . A recipe for a sauté of asparagus, shrimp, and morels (no eggs) is here. 

Asparagus with Two Sauces (Esparragos con Dos Salsas). This cold dish, which makes an excellent starter, is often prepared with canned white asparagus. But it's especially delicious with fresh green asparagus. One sauce is a variation on mayonnaise. The other is a vinaigrette with chopped scallions and red and green peppers. The recipes are here.

Wild Asparagus in Cazuela with Spring Vegetables (Cazuela de Esparragos Esparragados). Early spring brings wild asparagus to meadows and hillsides. Foragers have developed many ways to cook the thin, slightly bitter spears. This is an old traditional recipe--it's name means "asparagussed" asparagus. The vegetables cook in a sauce thickened with bread and flavored with pimentón and cumin. The cazuela usually is finished with eggs poached on top. The recipe is here. 

Sheet Pan Broiled Asparagus and Onions with Romesco Sauce (Calçotada al Grill con Esparragos y Romesco). Broiling is a great way to cook asparagus and romesco sauce is the perfect accompaniment. This is a sheet-pan adaptation of traditional Catalan feast of wood-fire grilled onions with other foods. See how to prepare calçotada and romesco sauce here. You can also grill asparagus on a plancha grill. How-to and more sauce recipes at Grilling on a Plancha.

Flamenco Baked Eggs with Asparagus and Chorizo (Huevos a la Flamenca). I call this the "Spanish shakshuka," eggs baked in a tomato sauce with sliced chorizo and asparagus spears. It's a satisfying lunch or supper dish. Recipe here.

"Garden Crayfish" (Fried Asparagus Spears) (Cigalas de la Huerta). Vegetables masquerading as fish is an old device to make simple foods appetizing. Green beans, crisply fried, sort of resemble fried fresh anchovies and pairs of asparagus spears sort of look like the claws on cigalas, sea crayfish. Directions for preparing the asparagus and other "fake" fish are here.

Mixed Spring Vegetables (Menestra de Verduras). With asparagus, peas, fava beans, and artichokes, this vegetable stew is celebration of spring vegetables. Leave out the optional sausage and it makes a splendid vegetarian main dish. The recipe is here.

White Asparagus with Clams and Shrimp, Basque Style (Esparragos a la Vasca). Make this dish with fresh white asparagus if available. If not, open a tin of silky Navarra asparagus in conserve. The recipe is here.

Asparagus Andalusian Style (Esparragos a la Andaluza). This is another version of the Cazuela de Esparragos Esparragados pictured above with wild asparagus. This one is made with cultivated green asparagus. The recipe is here.