Showing posts with label quail eggs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label quail eggs. Show all posts

Saturday, October 15, 2016

THE EGGS AND I

Yup, two dozen eggs in one day! (It was, after all, World Egg Day, second Friday of October.) These were, however, wee quail eggs. It takes six of these mini-eggs to equal one hen’s egg. And, I haven’t eaten all of them yet, so I’m figuring my cholesterol levels won’t spike.


The first time I encountered quail eggs in a Spanish market, I was so charmed by them, small, smooth, brown-speckled shells looking like polished pebbles, that I bought a basketful just to admire them. I served them, hard-boiled accompanied by cumin salt, at dinner parties. I gave cartons of them to friends as gifts.

Quail eggs are not much bigger than a marble.

Quail eggs have become quite common. The small birds are farm-raised, so the eggs are not robbed from nests of wild quail. They taste pretty much the same as chicken eggs. However, the shells have a tougher inner membrane than regular eggs.

To crack quail eggs (for poaching or frying): Tap the shell firmly with a knife blade, then insert the tip of the knife in the crack to split the inner membrane. Use knife or thumbs to open.

To hard-boil quail eggs: Place them in cold water. When water comes to a boil, cook the eggs 3-4 minutes. Drain and plunge them in cold water. To peel them, crack the rounded end of the egg, then roll on a flat surface. Peel off the shell. For soft-boiled with runny yolks, cook 45 seconds.


On my egg binge, I fried them, poached them, baked them and hard-boiled them. Here are a few ideas of what to do with quail eggs.

Hard-boiled quail eggs are dipped in cumin salt. Mix 1 tablespoon table salt with 1 tablespoon ground cumin and a pinch of cayenne. Provide bowls for the shells and let your guests peel the eggs and season with the salt mix.


Or, stuff hard-boiled eggs with black olive paste, called tapenade or olivada.

Bake mushrooms filled with spinach and eggs.


Shoestring potatoes in Spanish are "straw" potatoes. Fry shredded potatoes crisp in olive oil. Place a fried quail egg in potato nests.

Just for fun: cold jellied garlic soup in martini cocktail glasses with a poached quail egg in the bottom.

Quail Eggs Filled with Tapenade
Huevos de Codorniz Rellenos con Olivada


Tiny eggs are filled with black olive tapenade.
With brined olives, capers and anchovies, this paste probably needs no additional salt.

10 hard-boiled quail eggs
1 cup pitted black olives
2 cloves garlic
2 anchovy fillets
1 tablespoon capers
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon parsley
2 teaspoons lemon juice
Freshly ground black pepper


Peel the eggs, cut them in half, remove and reserve yolks. Place the whites on a serving dish.

Place the olives, garlic, anchovies, capers, oil, parsley, lemon juice and pepper in a blender and process until smooth.

Use a small spoon to fill the whites with the olive paste. Mash the yolks and scatter them on top of the filled eggs.

Quail Eggs in Mushroom Nests
Huevos de Codorniz en Nidos de Setas

Mushroom caps are filled with spinach and quail egg.

Serve these mushrooms with baked quail eggs as a starter.

6 large portobello mushrooms
¼ cup olive oil
¼ cup white wine
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 clove chopped garlic
1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots
½ cup cooked spinach, well drained and chopped
Grating of fresh nutmeg
1 tablespoon cream
6 quail eggs
Grated cheese (such as Manchego)


Remove stems from mushrooms (reserve for another use). Wipe the mushrooms with a damp cloth. Put them in a bowl with 3 tablespoons oil, wine, salt and pepper and chopped garlic.

Preheat oven to 400ºF.

Place the mushrooms in a baking dish, hollow side down. Pour over oil and wine marinade. Bake the mushrooms 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat remaining 1 tablespoon of oil in a skillet and sauté the shallots until softened. Add the spinach, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Cook until spinach is heated. Add the cream and cook 1 minute longer.

Choose large mushrooms.

Turn the mushrooms hollow side up. Put a spoonful of spinach into each mushroom cavity. Break a quail egg into each mushroom. Sprinkle tops with grated cheese. Return the mushrooms to the oven until whites are set but yolks still runny, about 6 minutes.

Serve the mushrooms hot.










Jellied Garlic Soup with Poached Quail Eggs
Sopa de Ajo con Huevos de Codorniz

A poached quail egg rests at the bottom of the cocktail glass.

I giggled the first time I tasted this take on garlic soup, invented by Manuel de la Osa of Restaurant Las Rejas in Las Pedroñeras (Cuenca, La Mancha, central Spain). But it’s much more than witty. So delicious are the tastes and textures that I order it every time I return to Manuel’s fine restaurant.

I’ve adapted his recipe using shortcuts. A real jellied consommé needs beef shin and bones to provide the gelatin to set the reduced broth. I’ve used powdered unflavored gelatin with ordinary chicken broth that has been skimmed of all fat and strained. It can be further clarified, if you want to go to the trouble.

To clarify the chicken broth: After straining, place the broth in a clean pan. Add 1 raw egg white and the crushed eggshell. Place the pan on a medium heat and, strirring occasionally, bring the broth almost to a boil. Reduce heat and barely simmer, without stirring, for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand 10 minutes.

Line a colander with several thicknesses of dampened cheesecloth and place over a bowl. Use a skimmer to lift off and discard the scum and froth from the top of the broth, then ladle the broth or pour it very carefully through the cheesecloth.


Make the jellied broth at least a day before you intend to serve the soup so that it has time to set in the refrigerator.


Poached quail eggs
6 quail eggs
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
¼ teaspoon salt

For the soup
3 ½ cups homemade chicken broth, clarified, if desired
1 teaspoon unflavored gelatin
3 cloves garlic
Salt, to taste

For the accompaniments
1 tablespoon olive oil
(3 cloves poached garlic)
½ ounce thinly sliced serrano ham, cut in 6 triangles
1 tablespoon crushed tomato
½ teaspoon smoked pimentón (paprika)
½ teaspoon sweet pimentón
1/8 teaspoon hot pimentón
Pinch of ground cumin
2 tablespoons water
Salt
Finely chopped parsley
Toast crisps


For the eggs. Tiny quail eggs cook so quickly (less than a minute), that it’s best to cook them one at a time. Have ready a bowl with ice water.

Combine 1 cup of water, the oil, vinegar and salt in a small skillet and bring it to a boil. Reduce heat so water simmers.

Break an egg into a saucer. Use a fork to swirl the water in the skillet. Tip the egg into the water and cook just until the white is set. Use a slotted spoon to lift the egg out and put it in the ice water. Continue poaching remaining eggs.

Use a slotted spoon to carefully remove one egg at a time from the water. Trim the whites to make a tidy little poached egg. Place each one in the bottom of a cocktail glass.

For the soup. Place ½ cup of the cold broth in a small bowl and sprinkle the gelatin over it.

Place remaining broth in a pan. Lightly crush the 3 cloves garlic, without peeling them. Bring the broth just to a simmer. Cook the garlic 1 minute and skim it out. Reserve the garlic. Add salt to the broth, if necessary.

Add the broth with gelatin to the hot broth. Whisk over low heat until the gelatin is completely dissolved.

Remove from heat and let the broth cool to lukewarm. Then carefully ladle it over the poached eggs in the cocktail glasses.

Refrigerate the glasses at least 12 hours. Remove them from the refrigerator 30 minutes before serving.

For the accompaniments. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a small skillet. Peel the 3 cloves of garlic that were poached in the soup. Slice them crosswise. Fry them until the edges begin to turn golden. Remove the garlic and reserve it.

Add the pieces of ham to the oil and fry them until they are crisped on both sides. Remove them and reserve.

Make a sofrito. Add the tomatoes, three kinds of pimentón and cumin to the skillet and fry them briefly. Add the water and a pinch of salt. Cook until water has evaporated and sauce is thick. Cool.

To serve the soup, spoon the sofrito on top of the jellied broth in the glasses. Scatter golden garlic slices on top. Garnish with fried ham. Sprinkle with finely chopped parsley. Accompany with toast crisps.

Break up the egg in the soup or spoon it up and eat in one bite.

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Coming events
EAT SPAIN UP! New York, 24-28 October, 2016

Eat Spain up! is a cultural event that brings the food and culture of Spain and its regions.
Take a trip to Spain without leaving the city in Food & Culture Sessions. Share the kitchen with guest chefs in Cooking Classes or learn about the iconic foods of Spain in Guided Tastings. Enjoy the Food Photography & Design exhibitions and take advantage of Dining Specials at Spanish restaurants across the city. For program and venues http://www.eatspainup.com/

Saturday, December 13, 2014

HOW TO PLAN A HOLIDAY PARTY—WITH TAPAS

Ready for a party! (Photo © Michelle Chaplow)

Let the festive season begin! Time for glittering parties and cozy fireside dinners with friends. Here’s how to plan all your party menus, around Spanish tapas. 


Tapas, almost by definition, are bar food. Nevertheless, many of them translate very nicely to home entertaining. A spread of salads and cold dishes is very nice for a buffet dinner. Trays of finger foods--bites on bread or speared on toothpicks, fritters and croquettes—can be passed as hors d’ouevres at a drinks party. Many tapas can become starters, side dishes or main dishes, making them adaptable to any dinner party or even Christmas dinner. You only need to add dessert to complete the menu plan.


My cookbook, TAPAS—A BITE OF SPAIN, with photographs by Michelle Chaplow, has a whole chapter on how to plan a tapas party, including tips and complete menus for several kinds of parties, and all the recipes you need to execute the plan.


A really simple party plan for a big party is to choose one tapa from each chapter of the  book—“La Tabla / Sausage, Ham and Cheese”; “Montaditos y Tostadas / Bites on Bread” (see recipe below for Ham and Eggs on Toasts); Pintxos / Bites on a Pick”; “Platos Fríos / Salads and Cold Dishes (see recipe below for Shellfish Cocktail); “La Tortilla y Más / Potato Tortilla and More Egg Dishes”; “A la Plancha / Foods on the Grill”; “Cazuelitas / Saucy Dishes” (see recipe below for Piquillo Peppers Stuffed with Prawns); “Fritos / Out of the Frying Pan”; “Salsas y Aliños / Sauces, Dressings, Dips and Spreads,” and “Y Para Beber / What to Drink with Tapas”.

How many bites? For a drinks party (not dinner), figure on at least four different tapas to serve six to eight people. Each person will eat three or four of each one. Plan six to eight tapas for eight to 12 people. A guest will eat two or three of each. For big parties, more than 12 people, serve as many as 12 different tapas and expect each person to eat two or three.

Serving tips. Don´t put out all the tapas at once. Serve them two-by-two. Provide a clean ramekin, small dish or even paper plate for each tapa so that your guests don’t have to pile them on a plate together.

In Spain, you can buy inexpensive little cazuelitas, pottery dishes, for individual tapas, or use any ramekins, small bowls or, now that no one smokes anymore, recycled ceramic ashtrays for tapa dishes. If you don’t have enough individual small dishes to go around, plan tapas that can be picked up from a tray and don’t require dishes. Do provide napkins, as even finger foods and pintxos (bites on a pick) can be messy.

Here’s a sample menu taken from the Tapas book. All the recipes appear in the book.

Buffet dinner for a celebration.
This is perfect for a New Year’s Day open house or any grand celebration. You can adapt the menu to serve from 15 to 40. Choose a main dish to center the buffet, such as pre-cooked ham, turkey, roast pork or whole salmon, and add tapas to accompany it. Some can be passed as hors d’oeuvres. Most will be served as side dishes on the buffet table. Provide dinner plates, with knives and forks, as needed.

Cava cocktail                                 Lollipops of Quail in Escabeche
Sliced Serrano or Ibérico Ham   Shellfish Cocktail (recipe below)
Quince Paste with Cheese           Málaga Salad with Oranges and Olives
Partridge Pâté                                Cauliflower Salad
Fried Empanadillas with Tuna      Potato Casserole


Fry the tuna empanadillas before party time. Reheat them in the oven shortly before serving. The potato casserole, a wonderful side dish, can be prepared in advance and reheated in the oven before serving.

Shellfish cocktail. (Photo © Michelle Chaplow)

Salpicón de Mariscos
Shellfish Cocktail

This makes a lovely starter for a dinner party. Turn it into a luxury version by substituting chunks of cooked lobster for the prawns and mussels.

Makes 12 tapas or 6 starters.


½ kilo / 1 lb mussels, scrubbed and steamed open
250 g / ½ lb peeled prawns (shrimp)
3 ripe tomatoes, chopped
½ onion, chopped
1 green bell pepper, chopped
2 hard-boiled eggs, yolks separated from whites
1 clove garlic, crushed
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
5 tablespoons wine vinegar
3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon salt
Lettuce leaves, to garnish
Sliced avocado, to garnish

Remove mussels from shells, discarding any that have not opened. Save a few on the half-shell for garnish. Cook the peeled prawns in boiling salted water for 1 minute and drain.

In a bowl combine the chopped tomatoes, onion, green pepper and chopped egg whites.

In a small bowl mash the egg yolks with the crushed garlic. Whisk in the oil, vinegar, parsley and salt.

Add the prawns and mussels to the tomato mixture. Stir in the dressing and chill, covered, until serving time. Serve on a platter garnished with lettuce, avocado and reserved mussels on the half-shell.


Fried quail egg on toasts. (Photo © Michelle Chaplow )
Cojonudo
Ham and Eggs on Toasts

How did this tapa get the name cojonudo? Well, those teensy quail eggs are just so ballsy. To crack the small eggs, give them a sharp tap with the blade of a knife, then break onto a saucer. Slip the egg from the saucer into hot oil in the frying pan. Fry four or five at a time. They cook in jiffy, so have the toasts and ham waiting when you start the eggs.

Makes 10.
10 slices baguette, brushed with olive oil and toasted in the oven
2 tablespoons olive oil
100 g / 3 ½ oz thinly sliced serrano ham
10 quail eggs
2 piquillo peppers (from a tin)
Coarse salt
Hot pimentón (paprika) or cayenne
Place the toasts on a serving dish. Brush a frying pan with a little oil and heat it. Lay the slices of ham in the pan, turn them quickly and remove. Divide the ham between the toasts.

Add remaining oil to the pan on medium heat. Break eggs, one at a time, into a saucer and slide them into the pan. Cook until whites are set but yolks still liquid, about 40 seconds. Lift the eggs out of the pan and place one on top of each toast.

Cut peppers into strips and lay one strip alongside each egg. Sprinkle with salt and pimentón. Serve immediately.

Stuffed piquillo peppers. (Photo © Michelle Chaplow )
Pimientos de Piquillo Rellenos con Gambas
Piquillo Peppers Stuffed with Prawns

Piquillo peppers are small, triangular-shaped red peppers. They are famous in Navarre, where they are roasted, skinned and tinned. Sweet and slightly piquant piquillos are lovely stuffed with seafood. The classic stuffing is bacalao, salt cod. In this version, which you might find in the taverns of San Sebastian, the filling is prawns in a creamy béchamel sauce.

The traditional way to prepare the peppers calls for an extra step—before baking with sauce, the peppers are coated in egg and quickly fried, giving them a sort of outer skin that holds peppers and stuffing together. 

Makes 6 tapas or 4 starters.

4 tablespoons olive oil, divided
2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tablespoons plain flour
1 tablespoon dry Sherry
230 ml / 8 fl oz / 1 cup less 1 tablespoon milk
½ teaspoon salt
150 g / 5 ¼ oz uncooked, small, peeled prawns (shrimp)
2 (185-g / 6 ½ -oz) tins piquillo peppers (16 to 20 peppers), drained
4 tablespoons white wine
Flour for dredging peppers
1 egg, beaten
Olive oil to fry the peppers
50 g / 1 ¾ oz grated cheese

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a saucepan on medium heat. Sauté the onion and 1 clove of the garlic, 2 minutes. Stir in the flour and cook 1 minute. Whisk in the Sherry, milk and salt. Cook, stirring constantly, until sauce is thickened, 5 minutes. Stir in the prawns and cook 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.

Select 12 of the drained peppers. Carefully spread them open and spoon prawn filling into them. Place them in a single layer on a shallow pan or tray. When all are filled, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour to allow the mixture to thicken.

While the prawn mixture is chilling, prepare the sauce. Combine remaining 2 tablespoons oil, 1 clove of garlic, white wine and remaining piquillo peppers in a blender and blend until smooth.

Preheat oven to 180ºC / 350ºF.

Place flour and beaten egg in two shallow bowls. Heat oil in a frying pan on medium heat. Dip the open end of the stuffed peppers into flour, then dredge the peppers in flour. Roll in beaten egg and fry until lightly golden. Remove the peppers from the frying pan and place them in a baking dish or individual cazuelitas. Spoon the sauce over the peppers and top with grated cheese.

Bake the peppers until cheese is melted and sauce is bubbly, 15 minutes. Serve hot or room temperature.

Recipes and text © Janet Mendel
Photos © Michelle Chaplow


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Tapas—A Bite of Spain shows you how to translate Spanish tapas from tasca to your own table. The book includes guides to Spanish ham, cheeses, olives, olive oil and wines; a handy Spanish-English glossary, and 140 recipes for favorite tapa dishes. Full-color photos are by Michelle Chaplow, professional hotel and travel photographer (http://www.michellechaplow.com/published-works/tapas-book.htm). Design is by Cheryl Gatward.

Measurements for ingredients are given in three standards, metric, British and American, so the recipes are usable on any continent.