Saturday, October 30, 2021

POP THIS TART IN THE OVEN

 

Apple Tart with raisins, pine nuts and honey glaze.



With electricity rates still sky-high, I take advantage of slightly lowered costs on the weekend to do a lot of cooking. If I’m turning on the (electric) oven to roast a chicken, I’m going to do some potatoes and cauliflower at the same time. What about the other oven rack? How about an easy apple tart?


Packaged puff pastry (hojaldre) needs no rolling out. The cinnamon-infused pastry cream can be made a day in advance, so the tart comes together in the time it takes to slice the apples.

Use any variety of apple for this tart. 


Borders are puffed and crispy.






Apple Tart
Tarta de Manzana

You need about 2 cups sliced apples for this tart—3 small or 2 large apples or approximately ¾ pound. Peel them or not, as you prefer. Slice them thinly.

One sheet of frozen (thawed) puff pastry (about 8 ½ ounces) forms the crust. It can be square, rectangular or circular. (Mine was square.) Unroll or unfold the dough and place it, with the paper lining onto a baking sheet. You dont need to roll the dough thinner.

A honey glaze brushed on after baking gives the tart a burnished look.

A serrated slicer or a pizza-cutting wheel works well to slice the tart. Serve it with ice cream or whipped cream, if desired. The tart is best the day it is made, as puff pastry doesn’t keep it’s crispness with storage.

Makes 8 slices.

1 sheet puff pastry, thawed if frozen
1 cup pastry cream with cinnamon (recipe below)
2 cups sliced apples
½ teaspoon cinnamon
Lemon juice
1 tablespoon pine nuts
1 tablespoon seedless raisins or sultanas
Pinch of fresh thyme leaves or fennel seeds (optional)
1 teaspoon butter or olive oil
2 tablespoons honey

Preheat oven to 400ºF.

Unfold the sheet of puff pastry and place it on a baking sheet. Leaving a 1-inch border around the dough, prick the surface with a fork. Spread the pastry cream on the dough, leaving the borders uncovered. 

Spread pastry cream, top with apples.

Combine the apples with cinnamon and ½ teaspoon lemon juice. Arrange the apples slices on top of the pastry cream as attractively as possible. Poke pine nuts and raisins around the apples. If desired, add a few thyme leaves or fennel seeds. Dot the tart with butter or drizzle with oil.

Bake the tart until the borders are puffed and browned, about 25 minutes. Remove from oven.

Brush on honey glaze.



Combine the honey and a few drops of lemon juice in a small bowl. Microwave on Medium for 15 seconds or until the honey is melted and thinned. Use a pastry brush to brush it on the apples.








Pastry Cream with Cinnamon
Crema Pastelera con Canela


The pastry cream can be prepared a day in advance of making the tart. Cover with plastic wrap pressed on to the surface of the cream so that it doesn’t form a crust and refrigerate. Stir smooth before using in the recipe.

You will need only half this quantity of pastry cream for the tart recipe. Save the remainder for another use such as cake filling, topping for fruit or pudding.

Makes about 2 cups of pastry cream.

¼ cup cornstarch
2 cups milk
2-inch cinnamon stick
Strip of lemon zest
3 egg yolks
½ cup sugar

Place the cornstarch in a bowl. Add ½ cup of the milk and stir until smooth.

Place the remaining milk, cinnamon stick and lemon zest in a pan. Bring to a boil and immediately remove from the heat. Skim out and discard the cinnamon and zest.

Add the yolks and sugar to the cornstarch-milk mixture and stir to combine well. Whisk in the hot milk. Return the milk-egg mixture to the pan. Cook on medium heat, stirring constantly, until the cream thickens. 










More recipes for desserts with apples:




Saturday, October 23, 2021

COLORFUL AUTUMNAL PEPPERS

 

"Stoplight" peppers--red, yellow, green.



I was making meat loaf for dinner and wanted a sauce or side to go with it. Not gravy, thank you very much. I’m not a gravy person. And not mushroom sauce, because my version of meatloaf includes mushrooms in the mix. I settled on roasted semáforo peppers—part side dish, part sauce, a little bit relish.


Marketed in threes, these peppers are called semáforo, or stoplight, for their red, yellow and green stop-and-go colors. Their bright colors and zesty flavors make them a perfect accompaniment to autumn. 

Roasted pepper salad is a favorite in tapa bars. It’s also popular served alongside fried and grilled fish. It’s a terrific topping for pizza or the Catalan version, coca. The peppers are a perfect foil for grilled entrecôte (steak). Scramble the peppers with eggs for a pipérade. Use them as sandwich filling. 

Roasted peppers make a zesty sauce for chicken meatloaf with mushrooms.


Heap peppers on toasts and top with anchovies.



The perfect meatloaf sandwich--thick slice of meatloaf, toasted bun with a little mayo and lots of roasted peppers.



Roasted Bell Peppers
Pimientos Asados

Red, yellow and green peppers make a colorful mélange.


The peppers are oven-roasted and need almost an hour in a moderate oven. They won’t char, as they do on a wood fire, but the skins will loosen and the flesh will become soft. They can be finished after peeling or, as in this recipe, sautéd in olive oil with garlic.

 Use all red or mixed color peppers. 

Serves 4.

4-5 small bell peppers
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 clove garlic, sliced crosswise
Chile, to taste
Salt
¼ teaspoon Sherry vinegar
Anchovies (optional)
Toasts (optional)
Chopped scallions (optional)

Preheat oven to 400ºF. Arrange the peppers in an oven pan and place it in the oven. After 10 minutes, lower the temperature to 350ºF. 

Oven-roasted peppers don't char, but skins come off easily.


Roast the peppers, turning them over every 15 minutes, until they are soft and the skin has visibly loosened from the flesh, about 45 minutes more.

Remove the pan from the oven and cover the peppers with a cloth. Allow to stand 10 minutes.

Peel off skin, discard seeds.
Peel away the skins of the peppers. Working over a bowl to catch the juices, split the peppers open and carefully remove seeds. Save the juices, strained of seeds. Cut or tear the flesh into thin strips. Heat the oil in a skillet and add the garlic and chile. When garlic begins to color, add the peppers. Sauté them on moderately high heat for 5 minutes. Add salt to taste and the reserved juices (4 to 5 tablespoons). Cook on moderate heat 5 minutes more. Stir in the vinegar.Serve the peppers hot, room temperature or chilled, with toasts, anchovies and scallions, if desired.


Meat Loaf, My Way
Rollo de Carne de Pollo

Meatloaf, as I knew it growing up in the Midwest, was an economical family meal of ground beef. It doesn’t really exist in Spanish cooking. There are meat versions of brazo gitano (gypsy’s arm), with fillings of ham, cheese, cooked egg, and extra-large meatballs such as the relleno that cooks in a cocido. But plebian meatloaf, no.

My version is not how my mother made meatloaf. I usually use ground chicken thighs, never beef. And I tend to add Spanish flavors such as olive oil, pimentón, garlic, capers. I like to add a spoonful of Asian fish sauce too--it contributes umami. If not using it, you may need to increase the amount of salt in the recipe.

3 tablespoons olive oil 
1 cup finely chopped onion
½ cup chopped celery
½ cup chopped carrot
1 clove garlic, chopped
2 cups chopped mushrooms (6 ounces)
½ teaspoon smoked pimentón (paprika)
Pinch of thyme
Pinch of fennel seeds
1 tablespoon dry Sherry
1 teaspoon Asian fish sauce (optional)
1 cup fresh bread crumbs
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 ¾ pounds ground chicken thighs
½ teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper 
1 tablespoon drained capers

Heat the oil in a skillet and sauté the onion, celery, carrot and garlic until onions are beginning to brown, 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and continue sautéing until mushroooms are softened, 5 minutes more. Add the pimentón, thyme and fennel. Add the Sherry and cook off the alcohol. Add the fish sauce, if using. Stir in the bread crumbs. Remove the pan from the heat and add the parsley.

Preheat oven to 400ºF. Lightly oil an oven pan.
In a bowl mix the ground chicken with salt and pepper. Add the onion-mushroom mixture and the capers. Mix thoroughly. Shape the meat into a compact loaf and place it in the oven pan. 

Place in the oven. After 10 minutes, lower oven temperature to 350ºF. Bake until meat tests done (160ºF), about 45 minutes longer.





More meatloaf recipes:



Saturday, October 16, 2021

CHICKEN SOUP—FOR WHATEVER AILS YOU

 


I don’t have Covid (negative test). But, I’ve been pretty sick all week, in no mood for blog planning. 

I haven’t lost my sense of smell or taste. Nevertheless, I have no appetite for cooking or eating. I do get hungry, though, but, what to eat? I don’t want salty crackers and cheese or gritty nuts. Coffee with milk is disgusting (although, I find oat milk goes down okay). Spicy chai tea is soothing. Raw tomatoes are fine, but tomato sauce burns my throat. Salad tastes good, but it seems such an effort to prepare when I’m not feeling well. Plain toast and scrambled eggs are comforting. What I really want is the “cure”—chicken soup. 

Chicken soup is so basic that, even with a low-grade fever, I could go through the motions. A chicken carcass left from a roast chicken, onion or leek, carrot, celery, bay leaf, sprig of thyme, salt, water and a slosh of white wine vinegar. Cook it 45 minutes while I nap. Strain the broth. Let it set 30 minutes and skim off the fat.

Add chopped celery, carrots and leeks, some greens. Cook some fideo noodles in the broth and add chopped (leftover) chicken. Serve piping hot. A Spanish touch—finish the soup with chopped serrano ham and mint leaves.

No recipe needed--chicken broth with vegetables and fideo noodles. The soup is "seasoned" with a sprinkling of chopped serrano ham and a sprig of mint.


Ah, that’s better already.

If I were preparing the simple soup for others, seeking flavor as well as comfort, I might 
Add a splash of fino or medium Sherry
Stir a spoonful of alioli (olive oil-garlic mayonnaise) into each bowl
Add chile paste and chopped cilantro